NorthJeff

I've gotten all my soil tests through my local ag extension agent at the county...I don't know if you have such a department, or maybe you local seed mill. But, in my terrible soils, of low fertility and low 4's for ph, I have never received back a recommendation for clover that included any nitrogen at all.

With the type of soil tests I use, I collect the dirt, and then bring it to the office to ship. I tell them what I will plant on each field, and they recommend exactly how much lime, and what and how much fertalizer to apply.

What has been extremely interesting is that in just an average of 3 years of planting, my fields went from ph's is the low 4's, to 6.7-7.3, and fertalizer recommendations of 600#'s per acre, to 200#'s per acre, and fertality levels from extremely low and low, to above average to high. It doesn't take long, but if you do it right, you will save money in the end and your fields will be very productive even starting with the worst of soils.

farm hunter

Stone cold,

I'm sorry if I was abrupt, I didn't mean to be. Like you I came on to this site 3+ years ago to learn about planting food plots. The first thing I learned is that I really didn't know very much, the second was that there is a WEALTH of information on the internet, this site included. Wooddust & Northjeff have given you some good information.

I'll be happy to answer any specific questions you have. You should spend a little time and search via Google to find out some information. If you are like me, you'll thouroghly enjoy what you learn. Use this site to verify what you've discovered and you will do well.

As far as Nitrogen - Clover is a legume, that when properly exposed to the right bacteria, will form nodules on the roots and "fix" its own Nitrogen from the air. That is why soil test generally do not indicate the addition of N at planting. In fact, your soil is a good canidate for a clover plot, because the soils is low in N. Basically, weeds like grasses & other broadleafs require Nitrogen, and its not present in decent quantities. The clover, when innoculated with the correct bacteria - will make its own Nitrogen and "outcompete" the weeds/grasses tha you have present. In 4-5 years time, the Clover will have added N back to the soil in some quantity, and lost its youthful vigor. At that point, weeds - especially grasses - will take over the plot - this is the time that people reccomend spraying poast - to try to get one or two more years from a plot.

Basically - when you add Nitrogen to a clover plot - you feed the competitors (grasses/weeds) - not the clover.

Sorry for the longwindedness - hope it didn't sound like a lecture!.

post back.............

Farm Hunter

Stone Cold

OK,

I bought some 0-46-0 today and some 0-0-62. I am going to lay down what I need to get into range. We will see how it works.

Now,

I bought some Vantage Grass Killer also. I would like to spray it to help the clover from having to compete with as many grass'.

Can someone give me a good mixing rate per gallon to spray my plots.....I also want to confirm that this will not kill my clover that I have, right?

Thanks

Russ otten

Stone,

I see that you got some advantage. Before you do like me, I put a grass herbicide on my plot and nothing happened. Talked to a friend that has plots near me and he said that I shouldn't apply the herbicide until the temp is above 70° and plenty of sunshine. Grasses don't absorb the herbicide at lower temp. efficiently. It takes active growth for the herbicide to work. Farmhunter, do you agree?

Russ

Stone Cold

I may have bought the wrong stuff.

I bought some stuff called VANTAGE........I haven't put it on yet so I will check it out

Russ otten

My misstake, I misspelled it. Vantage is correct.

Russ

Stone Cold

The stuff I bought says grass specific.

It says it is safe for broadleafs and other shrubs...

farm hunter

Russ,

I'm not sure about Vantage - But I suspect you are correct. Glycophosphate (roundup) works only on growing plants. What-ever the ingredient is for Vantage, probably works similarly.

Dan O.

If you want the most economical fertilizer you'll need to go to a farm store like Co-Op.

Dan O.

Stone Cold

This is the ingredients on the Vantage:

13%Sethoxydim :[2-[1-(ethoxyimino)butyl]-5-[2-(ethylthio)propyl]-3-hydroxy-2-cyclohexen-1 one

87% inert ingredients

50 Grass Killer contains VANTAGE Herbicide

Grass Killer is a selective, broad spectrum, postemergence herbicide for control of annual and perennial grass weeds in ornamentals, nonfood, and noncrop sites listed on this lable. Grass killer does not control sedges or broadleaf weeds. Essentially, all grass crops, such as sorghum, cprm. s,a;; graoms. amd roce. as we;; as prma,emta; grasses. sicj as trif. are sisce[tob;e tp Grass killer 50.

Grass Killer 50 can be safely be used on all varieties and species of nonbearing food crops, trees, shrubs, ornamentals, bedding plants, ground covers, nursery, wildflowers, Christmas trees, truf and other non-food crops under all conditions.

Grass Killer 50 will kill Bahiagrass, barnyard grass, Colonial and Highland Bentgrass, Broadleaf Signalgrass, Large and Smooth Crabgrass, Downy Brome, Berman Velvetgrass, Goosegrass, Rhizome and Seedling Johnson Grass, Junglerice, Lovegrass, Seedling Orchardgrass, Browntop Panicum, Fall Panicum and Texas Panicum. Quackgrass, Anual Ryegrass, Field Sandbur, Shattercane/Wildcane, Red Sprangletop, Seedling Tall Fescue, Bolunteer Barley, Volunteer Oats, Wild Pros Millet, Wirstem Muhly, Witchgrass, Wooly cupgrass.

Grass Killer 50 may be used to control grass in native wildflowers on roadsides and in landscapes.

OK, I am not going to list everything but it says that it is safe for Bird's Eye, Chicory and a bunch more.

I am going to the plots this week.....I need to know if I can use this. It doesn't mention clover at all on this lable for or against.

Thanks