food plot fertilizer
07-20-2011, 05:59 AM
#1
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 590
food plot fertilizer
I am building a small and remote food plot for this season.
I know it is best to do a soil sample, but I am tilling and fertilizing this weekend, so I just do not have time.
This spot is about 100 yds by 20 feet, 6000 ft^2. It is all pines, about 15 to 20 years growth probably, and it is an old logging trail that I have cleared and sprayed.
According to the site below, I could use about 75 lbs of 8-12-12 fertilizer, which is generally right for wooded areas. What do you guys think? Is it worth it? Or should I just throw out a bag of standard lawn fertilizer?
http://www.seedland.com/mm5/merchant...FERT-WGFERT-50
I know it is best to do a soil sample, but I am tilling and fertilizing this weekend, so I just do not have time.
This spot is about 100 yds by 20 feet, 6000 ft^2. It is all pines, about 15 to 20 years growth probably, and it is an old logging trail that I have cleared and sprayed.
According to the site below, I could use about 75 lbs of 8-12-12 fertilizer, which is generally right for wooded areas. What do you guys think? Is it worth it? Or should I just throw out a bag of standard lawn fertilizer?
http://www.seedland.com/mm5/merchant...FERT-WGFERT-50
07-20-2011, 06:27 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,704
Before you take the time and expense make sure it will get enough light to grow anything. Secondly, being in pines, the soil will likely be highly acidic due to the pine needles. Lime will be needed in a big way!
If you're going to go ahead and plant I would go with annual rye. It grows just about anywhere! Fertilizer wise, if you're gonna use lawn fertilizer make sure its straight fertilizer and not mixed with weed preventer. The weed preventer part is usually 2/4D which will nuke broadleaves.
If you're going to go ahead and plant I would go with annual rye. It grows just about anywhere! Fertilizer wise, if you're gonna use lawn fertilizer make sure its straight fertilizer and not mixed with weed preventer. The weed preventer part is usually 2/4D which will nuke broadleaves.
07-21-2011, 01:08 AM
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Person Co. NC
Posts: 884
Dont worry about the number of post. Quality, not quantity.
First, I do not recommend going in blind without a soil test.
Two, if you are going to do it anyway, lime it now. I'd guesstimate a minimum of 10 bags for 6000 ft.
Three, that's not a terrible fertilizer recommendation. I might try to find something closer to a 10-20-10. Woods plots in the south and east are terribly low in phosphorus (no idea where you are). Realistically, for only two bags of fertilizer you are going to have to take whatever you can find. I'd up it to 100 lbs the first year, and lighten up on the nitrogen (the first 10 in 10-20-10) if you are planting clover or other legumes. Brassicas, oats, wheat, or chicory need the extra nitrogen.
First, I do not recommend going in blind without a soil test.
Two, if you are going to do it anyway, lime it now. I'd guesstimate a minimum of 10 bags for 6000 ft.
Three, that's not a terrible fertilizer recommendation. I might try to find something closer to a 10-20-10. Woods plots in the south and east are terribly low in phosphorus (no idea where you are). Realistically, for only two bags of fertilizer you are going to have to take whatever you can find. I'd up it to 100 lbs the first year, and lighten up on the nitrogen (the first 10 in 10-20-10) if you are planting clover or other legumes. Brassicas, oats, wheat, or chicory need the extra nitrogen.
