build a stand?
10-23-2005, 03:19 PM
#4
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Darien, IL
Posts: 6,744
RE: build a stand?
I will do the drawing right now and take a picture of it to post this evening.
But basically here it is in words.
MATERIAL:
* 1-1/4" E.M.T. (electrical metal tube) or if you are a heavy dude, 1-1/2"
EMT. (these are sold in 10' lengths and only make about an 8' high
platform.
* I prefer 1-1/4" top fence post rail, it is sold in 10'-6" lengths and have a
nice step down on one end so you can make an extension ladder to
increase your platform height by fitting the two sections together.
(Either of these two above items will be your RISERS.
* 3/4" E.M.T.
* Thick (3/4" or better) plywood. This is for your seat platform.
* (4) 1/4"-20 bolts, washers and nylon insert lock nuts. Will secure
the front of your plywood platform and the lap belt.
* A couple 5/16"-18 eye bolts, washers and self biting nuts. Will secure
the back of your plywood platform and provide the anchor points for a
nylon ratchet strap to clamp it to a tree trunk.
* A simple lap belt from something like an older pick up or van. I get mine
at the bone yard for like $5/each. (That reminds me - I am going to get
a few more as soon as I'm done on here.)
* Lap belt (seat belt) with steel tabbed, one hole end plates.
TOOLS:
* Tubing bender for 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" EMT (electrical metallic tubing).
* Welder.
* Drill.
* Access to a milling machine. (My choice)
OR
* A hole saw the size of the o.d. of the 3/4" EMT.
Start by putting a bend at the top of two pices of riser. You want the bends to be oh, 16 - 18" and will have the plywood platform bolted to them when you are all done welding.
If the stand is going to be just for you, you need to figure the distance between the back of your calves while seated to where your feet will rest on the top rung of the ladder. You want your feet to support your legs just a bit, if your legs dangle and there is pressure on the back of your calves, your legs will not be happy.
I start with the top rung and space the rungs evenly on down to the bottom. Mark the locations you have choosen for the rungs.
Now to do the rungs using the 3/4" EMT. If you are going to go the hole saw route, hole saw the locations you have marked making sure you are lined up nice and straight. If your going to use a mill slot (my way), Squeze the end inch of the 3/4" EMT in a vise (or you can use a hammer, but the vise in a neater result) and measure how wide the flat is. Mill the marker spots wide enough to allow the flattened 3/4" pices to fit in. When finished with the hole sawing or mill job, figure how wide you want your ladder to be (20" is nice). Cut the 3/4" EMT 2" wider than you want the ladder and insert the pieces in the holes you have made. I hold the thing together with a couple nylon ratchet straps and with it all squared up I go ahead and spot weld a couple rungs, pull the straps off and eyeball it to make sure it looks good.
If it's all good to me I complete all the welds. EMT is kinda galvanized and it welds much better if you lightly gring the surfaces where you want your welds. Practice on a few small junk pieces to get your heat right. By all means, you don't want to be to welding too hot or it will burn holes - bad.
Cut your platform to desired size. The front edge of the platform should be right about where the bends end. Cut a wide "V" notch in the back to keep center on tree. Use the 1/4"-20 bolts on the front with the bolt heads up, flat washers on both sides and the locknut on the bottom. For the rear anchoring eye bolts, run a regular nut all the way on the 5/16'-18 eyebolts, put a flat washer on and rough assemble pushing the eyebolts thru from the bottom and figure the necessary length thru the self gripping nut on top of the plywood platform. Cut the eyebolts to length then reassemble with some locktight.
Bolt on your seat belt.
Paint it however you want.
Throw it outside to air out and get it more natural smelling.
The only drawback I have with these is the plywood only lasts like 3 or 4 seasons. It will last much longer though if you keep them covered from the rain with heavy secured plastic when not being used (off season).
I'll try to get the drawing posted later.
But basically here it is in words.
MATERIAL:
* 1-1/4" E.M.T. (electrical metal tube) or if you are a heavy dude, 1-1/2"
EMT. (these are sold in 10' lengths and only make about an 8' high
platform.
* I prefer 1-1/4" top fence post rail, it is sold in 10'-6" lengths and have a
nice step down on one end so you can make an extension ladder to
increase your platform height by fitting the two sections together.
(Either of these two above items will be your RISERS.
* 3/4" E.M.T.
* Thick (3/4" or better) plywood. This is for your seat platform.
* (4) 1/4"-20 bolts, washers and nylon insert lock nuts. Will secure
the front of your plywood platform and the lap belt.
* A couple 5/16"-18 eye bolts, washers and self biting nuts. Will secure
the back of your plywood platform and provide the anchor points for a
nylon ratchet strap to clamp it to a tree trunk.
* A simple lap belt from something like an older pick up or van. I get mine
at the bone yard for like $5/each. (That reminds me - I am going to get
a few more as soon as I'm done on here.)
* Lap belt (seat belt) with steel tabbed, one hole end plates.
TOOLS:
* Tubing bender for 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" EMT (electrical metallic tubing).
* Welder.
* Drill.
* Access to a milling machine. (My choice)
OR
* A hole saw the size of the o.d. of the 3/4" EMT.
Start by putting a bend at the top of two pices of riser. You want the bends to be oh, 16 - 18" and will have the plywood platform bolted to them when you are all done welding.
If the stand is going to be just for you, you need to figure the distance between the back of your calves while seated to where your feet will rest on the top rung of the ladder. You want your feet to support your legs just a bit, if your legs dangle and there is pressure on the back of your calves, your legs will not be happy.
I start with the top rung and space the rungs evenly on down to the bottom. Mark the locations you have choosen for the rungs.
Now to do the rungs using the 3/4" EMT. If you are going to go the hole saw route, hole saw the locations you have marked making sure you are lined up nice and straight. If your going to use a mill slot (my way), Squeze the end inch of the 3/4" EMT in a vise (or you can use a hammer, but the vise in a neater result) and measure how wide the flat is. Mill the marker spots wide enough to allow the flattened 3/4" pices to fit in. When finished with the hole sawing or mill job, figure how wide you want your ladder to be (20" is nice). Cut the 3/4" EMT 2" wider than you want the ladder and insert the pieces in the holes you have made. I hold the thing together with a couple nylon ratchet straps and with it all squared up I go ahead and spot weld a couple rungs, pull the straps off and eyeball it to make sure it looks good.
If it's all good to me I complete all the welds. EMT is kinda galvanized and it welds much better if you lightly gring the surfaces where you want your welds. Practice on a few small junk pieces to get your heat right. By all means, you don't want to be to welding too hot or it will burn holes - bad.
Cut your platform to desired size. The front edge of the platform should be right about where the bends end. Cut a wide "V" notch in the back to keep center on tree. Use the 1/4"-20 bolts on the front with the bolt heads up, flat washers on both sides and the locknut on the bottom. For the rear anchoring eye bolts, run a regular nut all the way on the 5/16'-18 eyebolts, put a flat washer on and rough assemble pushing the eyebolts thru from the bottom and figure the necessary length thru the self gripping nut on top of the plywood platform. Cut the eyebolts to length then reassemble with some locktight.
Bolt on your seat belt.
Paint it however you want.
Throw it outside to air out and get it more natural smelling.
The only drawback I have with these is the plywood only lasts like 3 or 4 seasons. It will last much longer though if you keep them covered from the rain with heavy secured plastic when not being used (off season).
I'll try to get the drawing posted later.
10-23-2005, 11:33 PM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: A shack in Arkansas
Posts: 2,029
RE: build a stand?
Yes EMT is galvanized and when welded it puts off a poisoness gas. be very careful if you do this . I have welded EMT but usually have a fan blowing away from my work and use flux core wire. I have been told to drink LOTS of milk if your around it???
Just be careful .
You might also check a scrap metal company and see if they have any muffler pipe that is not galvinized. I buy alot pipe from a place local that is just a little rusty and get a great deal on it . it paints up well and makes great stands.
Just be careful .
You might also check a scrap metal company and see if they have any muffler pipe that is not galvinized. I buy alot pipe from a place local that is just a little rusty and get a great deal on it . it paints up well and makes great stands.
10-24-2005, 06:15 AM
#6
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: COLUMBIA MD
Posts: 20
RE: build a stand?
i work at amuffler shop ,and i have built many stands out of steel tubing.never had any problems out of them.most of the guys at my camp said "they will rust out in a year" but 5years later they still hunt them.good luck there are plans online, but i dont recall the sites,sorry
