PLEASE tell me how to sharpen a broadhead !!!
08-26-2002, 03:49 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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RE: PLEASE tell me how to sharpen a broadhead !!!
got the Redi-Edge today - yes it takes off a lot of metal and makes a nice beveled edge. I got the tips better with this than anything else . Its sharp enough I can hunt with them and feel comfortable.
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08-27-2002, 08:41 AM
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
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RE: PLEASE tell me how to sharpen a broadhead !!!
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I love the Accusharp, and its what Mike Sohm recommends (Magnus CEO) so thats good enough for me <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>
Don't mean to cause waves, and I'm not trying to put anyone down, but, but the problem that I have with that statement is this. If they believe in the sharpening product so much, maybe they should use it and sharpen the blades before they send their product out.
I use Magnus exclusively, but I have yet get one sharp from the factory.
Don't mean to cause waves, and I'm not trying to put anyone down, but, but the problem that I have with that statement is this. If they believe in the sharpening product so much, maybe they should use it and sharpen the blades before they send their product out.
I use Magnus exclusively, but I have yet get one sharp from the factory.
09-04-2002, 06:59 AM
#13
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
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Posts: 7,571
RE: PLEASE tell me how to sharpen a broadhead !!!
Here is how I shapen my magnus heads.
Out of the box heads. It usually takes about fifteen minutes for me to sharpen brand new heads.
1. I use a s-24 file. I believe that the first step is very important in sharpening new heads. You have to get the whole factory grind off the heads. On some heads, it may take up to about 75 swipes on each side to get it off. Make sure that you see fresh metal on the entire blade before moving on. You are actually changing the cutting angle on the head. I don't believe that the original angle is proper for the best cutting edge possible.
2. I move to an s-24 course stone. I usually take about 30 heavy presured strokes on each side followed by about 10 lighter pressured strokes on each side followed by about 10 even lighter pressured strokes on each side.
3. I move to an s-24 fine stone. I usually take about the same amount of strokes as step 2.
4. I move to a s-24 leather strop. You can only pull the blade toward you on this one. I put a little bit of fine metal polish on the leather. Again, I take about the same amount of stropke as step 2 and 3. But, I also do about 10 reps of hitting one side of the blade then the other.
If I have already sharpened my heads one time, the only thing that is needed is step 3 and 4. This only takes about 3 minutes to do once the head has been sharpened.
Edited by - BobCo19-65 on 09/04/2002 07:59:56
Out of the box heads. It usually takes about fifteen minutes for me to sharpen brand new heads.
1. I use a s-24 file. I believe that the first step is very important in sharpening new heads. You have to get the whole factory grind off the heads. On some heads, it may take up to about 75 swipes on each side to get it off. Make sure that you see fresh metal on the entire blade before moving on. You are actually changing the cutting angle on the head. I don't believe that the original angle is proper for the best cutting edge possible.
2. I move to an s-24 course stone. I usually take about 30 heavy presured strokes on each side followed by about 10 lighter pressured strokes on each side followed by about 10 even lighter pressured strokes on each side.
3. I move to an s-24 fine stone. I usually take about the same amount of strokes as step 2.
4. I move to a s-24 leather strop. You can only pull the blade toward you on this one. I put a little bit of fine metal polish on the leather. Again, I take about the same amount of stropke as step 2 and 3. But, I also do about 10 reps of hitting one side of the blade then the other.
If I have already sharpened my heads one time, the only thing that is needed is step 3 and 4. This only takes about 3 minutes to do once the head has been sharpened.
Edited by - BobCo19-65 on 09/04/2002 07:59:56
09-04-2002, 05:57 PM
#14
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Texarkana, TX/AR
Posts: 384
RE: PLEASE tell me how to sharpen a broadhead !!!
BobCo, in your 8/27 post: That makes sense!! <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
But ... that would require extra HAND work which would drive up the time involved in making the head ready for shipping which would, of course, drive up the cost of the end product. Then many less people would buy it then he'd have to close up shop. PLUS - he probably has no stock in Accu-Sharp either. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
http://www.hotspothunting.com/common...end=0&id=18984
Romans 8:28
Edited by - powduck on 09/04/2002 18:59:14
But ... that would require extra HAND work which would drive up the time involved in making the head ready for shipping which would, of course, drive up the cost of the end product. Then many less people would buy it then he'd have to close up shop. PLUS - he probably has no stock in Accu-Sharp either. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
http://www.hotspothunting.com/common...end=0&id=18984
Romans 8:28
Edited by - powduck on 09/04/2002 18:59:14
09-05-2002, 07:35 AM
#15
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 7,571
RE: PLEASE tell me how to sharpen a broadhead !!!
Powduck, I hear ya, but,
The blades come with an edge that is not good or properly angled. So that cost money to begin with. If the blades came with no cutting edge or angle at all, I believe it would drive down cost. But how much more do you think it would cost to at least put the proper angle on the blades as opposed to putting the improper one. Not much if any IMO. Then they go ahead and imply and endorse a tool to get their improper angled dull blades sharp. Like I said, I use them exclusively, and would recommend them. Just complaining. Its almost comical to me. But, its also only one characteristic of the blade.
The blades come with an edge that is not good or properly angled. So that cost money to begin with. If the blades came with no cutting edge or angle at all, I believe it would drive down cost. But how much more do you think it would cost to at least put the proper angle on the blades as opposed to putting the improper one. Not much if any IMO. Then they go ahead and imply and endorse a tool to get their improper angled dull blades sharp. Like I said, I use them exclusively, and would recommend them. Just complaining. Its almost comical to me. But, its also only one characteristic of the blade.
