metrodus

Hello folks...

I'm new to archery and just bought myself a Chek-Mate TD Hunter. 60", 57#@28" (I know what you'll say about over-bowing myself... I've been working up to this for a few months...), Draw Length = 30"

Here are my queries:

1. I'm wondering what opinions exist on how to properly store the bow when not in use, specifically if there is any damage that might occur from leaving the bow strung.

2. Are there any good resources online detailing the processes for tuning your bow? I saw in another post someone mention something about string twisting, etc... I don't really know how to do this stuff...

3. At some point, I'll be wanting to hunt. Do any of you have suggestions for guidlines concerning accuracy, a level of performance that I should reach, before attempting an animal? How long did it take you to get there?

That's it for now, thanks in advance!

Wingbone

Welcome to archery. I've got my answers to your questions.

Don't leave your bow strung. The laminated wood limbs will weaken over time. I hang mine either vertically, by the string or horizontally, with supports spaced just longer than the riser. Do not prop it in a corner on one limb.
The Fred Asbell book on instinctive shooting has a good section on bow tuning. I'm sure there are others. With a recurve there is not much to it, but there are some rules you need to follow.
Accuracy is entirely up to you. To some it comes easy, some it takes longer. If you pick your spot and follow through, you'll have good accuracy. You can acheive it as soon as you can pull and hold your bow long enough to lock on to your target and release smoothly. The range you are comfortable shooting is dependant on you confidence. If you can put all your arrows in an 8" circle at 20 yd., There you go. If you can do it at 15 yd., there's your range. You have to know that, when you pull the bow back, you are capable of hitting your target. Good luck. Above all, have fun.

Longbow Bowhunter

Hello, You will get mixed answers on leaving bow strung or not, I have seen this and been told first hand, with modern glass backed bows, you can leave them strung, I myself do not do this, I unstring after use, even for the evening after hunting. I hang my bows horizontal but vertical supported by the sting is OK also.
OL Adcok has tuning on his site at www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm, or
www.arrowsbykelly.com, as for number 3. practice allot, and go to 3-D shoots, and stump shoot, that will give you an idea were you are, and what your max effective range is. Good luck, and welcome.

Arthur P

I used to store my bows unstrung, in bow socks, laid flat under my bed. Then I built a rack so I could hang them horizontally and show off all that pretty wood. I shoot my ChekMate at least a few shots every day, so I rarely unstring it. The bows I know I won't shoot for at least several days are always unstrung after use.

Byron Ferguson has a tuning chapter in his 'Become The Arrow' book, going way into ultra fine tuning. I mean even talking about trimming the strands of your string silencers! Honestly, I can't shoot good enough to see any difference in how long my string silencers are. [8D] But I really like his book better than Asbell's. Adcock's tuning page that Longbow Bowhunter posted is EXCELLENT.

Also, I agree that practicing a lot, stump shooting and doing 3D shoots is the best way to gather pre-hunt experience and confidence. Sometimes you just know in your bones you can't make the shot, even at 10 yards, so you let the deer walk. Other times, you know just as certainly that a shot is a slam dunk even at 25 yards. The only way to get to that point is by shooting, in as close to actual hunting situations as possible.

Good luck!

LBR

You can leave your bow strung if you want, without damaging it. I store mine on two pegs, with the weight of the bow resting on the ends of the riser. Never leave it standing on end for any amount of time, strung or unstrung.

You can ask specific questions here and generally get a lot of help. O.L.'s site is great for tuning. I recommend Byron Ferguson's book Become The Arrow, and Ricky Welch's instinctive shooting video Vol. II also has a good bit of information.

You will have to determine when you are ready to hunt, and what your limitations are. Whitetails generally have a kill zone the size of a paper plate, give or take. Being able to hit this consistently is a good place to start, but also practice realistic hunting situations--if you hunt from a blind, shoot from it--the same for a treestand, etc. 3-D tournaments are good for practice, just keep in mind the kill zones on the targets aren't always 100% accurate. Also remember the animals won't always stand perfectly still and broadside for you. Know where the vitals are at a given angle, and think about the path your arrow will travel as it passes through--the 10 ring on a McKenzie target is not where you want to shoot a deer that is quartering away. Praticing long shots and becoming accurate with them will make the shorter shots easier. Practice at different distances, different angles, different light situations, etc. Work on your form and consistency first, then worry about accuracy. Start close and work your way back--there is no shame in practicing at 5 yds. Starting close and hitting the target will build your confidence and accuracy much faster than missing at longer ranges.

Good luck!

Chad

metrodus

Thanks guys for all the tips!

I think that I'll play it on the safe side and keep my bow un-strung. Thanks for the heads-up on not leaning the bow up on one end... I wouldn't otherwise have known not to do that.

One more question...

My third finger tip (ring finger) has started going numb during each of my practice sessions. The sensation lasts for a number of hours afterwards. I'm thinking that I may be incorrectly gripping the string... although from what I can tell the string rests during draw on the inside of the first knuckle. Any ideas?

LBR

Sounds like you are pulling too much with your ring finger--is it getting sore and/or calloused? I used to do that myself until it was pointed out to me. You can bugger your arrow like that--you will be pushing the arrow down hard on the shelf. Try pulling more with the first two fingers--the ring finger should have the least pressure.

Chad

whackm

LBR makes some good points as do the others. I just picked my recurve up after many years. I never have really hunted big game with it but have killed several deer with my compound. Lotsa fish with the recurve but nothing any bigger. I decided to hunt with it this year. I started shooting it every day for at least 20 min. I try to picture each shot as the only one I'll get. Shooting groups just builds the shooting muscles.(Not a bad thing). When I started I was less than 50% at 15 yards on a 8" target. Now with "good practice", I 'm shooting 3"-4" grpups at 20-25 yards. I shoot one arrow and visualize the shot from draw to release every time. My shots are more consistant and my practice more productive. Better practice makes better shots. You only get one.. it better be right.. huh? Just my practice technique.

Grey Taylor

Whackm makes a good point and it's one I rarely see brought up. Essentially, practice does not make perfect, Perfect Practice Makes Perfect.

I've seen a lot of people who go to the range and launch arrows. When a bad shot happens they don't know why it happened, they aren't analyzing what they do. These people are doomed to reach a level of competancy and basically just stay there.
The individual who pays attention to what he is doing will know that a bad shot was because of release, or too tight a grip on the bow, etc. and then make a conscious effort to learn and not repeat that error. This person will rise in skill.

Guy