dathein

I need to buy some new arrows and am thinking about going to wood instead of aluminum. I've seen several sources on ebay for pretty reasonable prices as well as 3 rivers, etc. Any recommendations on sources??

Also, do you keep one set of cedars with field points and another with broadheads and how exactly do you attach them?? I hate to sound clueless, but I've never shot anything except aluminum.

One last question . . . . I've noticed that those of you who shoot Crusaders seem to recommend a arrow spine about 5# above your bow weight, so my 52# Crusader should shoot a 55-60# spine??

As always, thanks for all the advice.
Dave

john49

I suggest rogueriverarchery.com in Oregon. Paula and Cecil are great to deal with and will be glad to help you with any questions. They have raw shafts if you want to try and make your own, or they sell completed arrows, both in tapered and parallel. Whatever choice you make, just make sure they are a reputable dealer. Best way to do that is go with suggestions from folks that have shot arrows from them.
My crusader shoots 55-60 spine arrows cut to 29 or 30 in. just fine. It is 51@28.
As far as attachment of heads, I use hot melt glue sticks, the ones you buy for the heated guns. I get a pack of six at Home Depot, Walmart, of any hardware store for about the price of one stick of glue that they say is for heads only at an archery store. I have never lost a head yet. Just be sure you clean out the residue and oil in the head from the manufacturing process with alcohol. I also take a 38 caliber brass bore brush and scuff it up abit.
Arrows for broadheads and practice heads is your choice. I usually glue broadheads on 1/2 doz arrows that I feel shoot the best of them all right before the season. That way I have freshly glued heads every year with the straighest shooting arrows that I have at the time.
I'm sure several other guys will jump in here with help and suggestions. This will get you started. Hope this helps, good luck, you won't be sorry you switched to wood. There is just something about wood off a longbow that makes it right. John

PineLander

Here's two sources I have purchased from and they both know woodies. Very fine craftsmanship, arrows are hand-straightend, grain matched within 10 grains, spine-matched within 5#, nocks aligned as they should be. They both offer their arrows on Ebay from time to time. There may be others that are cheaper, but you get what you pay for. I'm sure there are many arrow builders just as good as these guys, ask the right questions and you'll know.

http://www.american-hunter.com/custom-arrows.htm

http://www.fletcharrows.com/home.html

When choosing the correct spine of arrow for your bow, consider the principles of spine in relation to length and point weight. I've been told that the rule of thumb is.... for each additional 1" of shaft length or 35 grains of point weight, there is a decrease of spine by approximately 5#. Wood arrow spine rating is at 28" with a 125 grain point. From what John has stated, sounds like his Crusader likes an arrow that is about the same spine as the weight he is drawing. Everyone is different, depends on your draw length and how heavy or light an arrow you want to shoot.

Troy n Oh

I do not shoot wood but when I did give it a go the folks at rogue river were really very helpful and get the product out pretty quick.

PineLander

I don't think these would be considered reasonable, but if money is no object, I believe these may be the best available...
+/- 2 lb. spine and +/- 5 grain
Beautiful, totally custom stuff.
http://www.arrowart.net/

I just weighed the arrows I purchased from www.fletcharrows.com today...
All 12 were within 7 grains, crested, burned feathers, hens are real barred.
All for the whopping price of 50.00 + 6.50 shipping off Ebay.

Floxter

If I'm not mistaken, ATA (formerly AMO) standards call for wood arrows to be spined at 26" not 28" as previously stated. Only Aluminum and Carbons are spined on 28" centers.

PineLander

Not familiar with the 'standards'. If aluminums and carbons are spined with 28" centers, guess that would make for a 30" spined shaft, as there must be some length of shaft extending past the posts, 1" at each end. I'm only familiar with the standard spine tester used for many years on woods, which has been 26" from post to post, resulting in a 28" shaft.

Floxter

For AMO standards go to: http://www.archerytrade.org/publicat...oStandards.pdf

PineLander

"Deflection is measured in inches with shaft supported on 26" centers and depressed with a two-pound weight."

So... 1" over one post for the point and 1" over the other post for the nock. This would appear to be a 28" shaft.

Floxter

Pinelander, the deflection for a shaft will remain the same whether it is 26", 28" or 30". They would all still be measured on the same 26" centers. However, lengthening or shortening the shaft above or below the 26" standard will change the dynamic spine of the shaft. Figure +/- 4# for every inch variation from the 26" standard. On the other hand, Easton spines their aluminums on 28" centers, using a 29" arrow with a 1.94# weight as opposed to the 2# weight used for woodies.