IPE/Boo Glueup
04-07-2009, 05:31 AM
#11
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
And something else; When you put in reflex, always go more than you want. You will always lose a bit, as you noticed, out of the form. You will never keep all the reflex you put it, it will always lose a bit. One thing you will like, ipe holds shape and sets less than Osage. Osage always loses a lot of reflex, ipe will not lose near as much. You will lose some in the tillering, but not near as much as you would with Osage. If you got about 2" reflex out of the form, you will probably have at the least 1/2" when done tillering. Depending on how well you tiller. You could even keep about 1" - 1.5". If that was osage, you would be looking at about an inch or two of follow. Ipe holds its shape pretty good.
04-07-2009, 06:13 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
It never hurts. 220 is usually fine. You shouldnt pull any splinters. Ive tillered many bows that the boo was sanded with 220. But hitting it with a 300, 400, and 600 wont hurt a bit. Smoother the boo, less likely to pull a splinter.
As for you 1/64th gap, you should lose that when you trap it. Some times those real thin edges dont lay flat, but they are very shallow and almost always come out when you trap, or sand the boo. If it doesnt, let me know and ill show you a trick to fix it.
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
Well, she survived the glue up. Everything looks pretty good. I have one spot that concerns me that has a small 1/64 gap. But I believe if I keep sanding I can get below it.
For some reason she only has 1" of tip reflex. I figured she would keep 2". I had 2.75" blocks holding up the tips.
So I sanded down the boo tonight after cleaning up. Sanded off the glue. I need to get some finer sandpaper. I sanded the boo with 100grit, then 220grit. Figured I should sand it as well as possible.
Well, she survived the glue up. Everything looks pretty good. I have one spot that concerns me that has a small 1/64 gap. But I believe if I keep sanding I can get below it.
For some reason she only has 1" of tip reflex. I figured she would keep 2". I had 2.75" blocks holding up the tips.
So I sanded down the boo tonight after cleaning up. Sanded off the glue. I need to get some finer sandpaper. I sanded the boo with 100grit, then 220grit. Figured I should sand it as well as possible.
As for you 1/64th gap, you should lose that when you trap it. Some times those real thin edges dont lay flat, but they are very shallow and almost always come out when you trap, or sand the boo. If it doesnt, let me know and ill show you a trick to fix it.
Do you think I took it out too soon? I put it back in the form last night to sit all night.
04-07-2009, 06:14 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
And something else; When you put in reflex, always go more than you want. You will always lose a bit, as you noticed, out of the form. You will never keep all the reflex you put it, it will always lose a bit. One thing you will like, ipe holds shape and sets less than Osage. Osage always loses a lot of reflex, ipe will not lose near as much. You will lose some in the tillering, but not near as much as you would with Osage. If you got about 2" reflex out of the form, you will probably have at the least 1/2" when done tillering. Depending on how well you tiller. You could even keep about 1" - 1.5". If that was osage, you would be looking at about an inch or two of follow. Ipe holds its shape pretty good.
And something else; When you put in reflex, always go more than you want. You will always lose a bit, as you noticed, out of the form. You will never keep all the reflex you put it, it will always lose a bit. One thing you will like, ipe holds shape and sets less than Osage. Osage always loses a lot of reflex, ipe will not lose near as much. You will lose some in the tillering, but not near as much as you would with Osage. If you got about 2" reflex out of the form, you will probably have at the least 1/2" when done tillering. Depending on how well you tiller. You could even keep about 1" - 1.5". If that was osage, you would be looking at about an inch or two of follow. Ipe holds its shape pretty good.
with pictures. I want to tiller this one right.
04-07-2009, 06:41 AM
#14
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
Mark,
That is normal forany solventvapor cure glue. The matted surfaces have bonded, you have no worries. This is one of the reasons I unwrap, after a bow has set over night, and let it air out for a few more hours. Your limbs are set, you dont have to worry. I would not work on it for at least 24 hours after glueing. That is for any glue, epoxy or titebond. I usually let a bow set in the form for about 12 hours, unwrap and let set for another 12 hours. That way im sure everything has cured. I will wipe off the excess goop and sometime, even sand the limb edges to clean them up, then let the bow set.
That is normal forany solventvapor cure glue. The matted surfaces have bonded, you have no worries. This is one of the reasons I unwrap, after a bow has set over night, and let it air out for a few more hours. Your limbs are set, you dont have to worry. I would not work on it for at least 24 hours after glueing. That is for any glue, epoxy or titebond. I usually let a bow set in the form for about 12 hours, unwrap and let set for another 12 hours. That way im sure everything has cured. I will wipe off the excess goop and sometime, even sand the limb edges to clean them up, then let the bow set.
04-07-2009, 06:55 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
Mark,
That is normal forany solventvapor cure glue. The matted surfaces have bonded, you have no worries. This is one of the reasons I unwrap, after a bow has set over night, and let it air out for a few more hours. Your limbs are set, you dont have to worry. I would not work on it for at least 24 hours after glueing. That is for any glue, epoxy or titebond. I usually let a bow set in the form for about 12 hours, unwrap and let set for another 12 hours. That way im sure everything has cured. I will wipe off the excess goop and sometime, even sand the limb edges to clean them up, then let the bow set.
Mark,
That is normal forany solventvapor cure glue. The matted surfaces have bonded, you have no worries. This is one of the reasons I unwrap, after a bow has set over night, and let it air out for a few more hours. Your limbs are set, you dont have to worry. I would not work on it for at least 24 hours after glueing. That is for any glue, epoxy or titebond. I usually let a bow set in the form for about 12 hours, unwrap and let set for another 12 hours. That way im sure everything has cured. I will wipe off the excess goop and sometime, even sand the limb edges to clean them up, then let the bow set.
Because I wouldn't have gotten this far without your advise.
Kent, I was going thru a few pictures of the tips. I figured since I want to let her cure for a few days, I will finish the handle pieces and tips. I noticed you once sanded flat yoru boo and laid antler on it. And another you sanded down to the IPE on half the tip. Do you ever worry tapering the boo that a splinter will pop up at the intersection from the boo?
I want to probably sand down to the IPE for half the tip. I was goign to use elk bone/elk hoof. And for the handle, I will use black walnut(half sapwood) and a hickory layer (less than 1/4") between the walnut and IPE. I figured since I went with hickory for my power lam. Think it will look good?
04-07-2009, 08:26 AM
#16
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
I do all kind of tips. Dont worry about the boo. IF you sad it flat, what ever you put on the tips will hold it down. IF you go down to the ipe, Id suggest you do it in a angle. Taper it, if you will. That way you will have some of the boo under you tip material to help hold it down.
This one is in an angle. I sanded through the boo and ipe. I put a thin layer of ipe down first, then mesquite, then antler.
Here is a side view. Kind of bad pic, but you can see what I mean by holding the boo down. This bow has a layer of ipe, on top of the boo, then osage, and then antler. You can see what I mean about sanding it in an angle. Either way you do it, just have some/all of the boo under your tip overlays.
This one is in an angle. I sanded through the boo and ipe. I put a thin layer of ipe down first, then mesquite, then antler.
Here is a side view. Kind of bad pic, but you can see what I mean by holding the boo down. This bow has a layer of ipe, on top of the boo, then osage, and then antler. You can see what I mean about sanding it in an angle. Either way you do it, just have some/all of the boo under your tip overlays.
04-07-2009, 08:28 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
Yep, thats the one I am shootin for. I like that. The second picture that is.
First one looks nice but I guess not finished.
Thats one thing I notice about you Kent. Most guys I notice only do one style of bows.
But I see you see doing pin nocks, full size ones. Rounded ones.
First one looks nice but I guess not finished.
Thats one thing I notice about you Kent. Most guys I notice only do one style of bows.
But I see you see doing pin nocks, full size ones. Rounded ones.
04-07-2009, 09:47 AM
#18
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
Yep, thats the one I am shootin for. I like that. The second picture that is.
First one looks nice but I guess not finished.
Thats one thing I notice about you Kent. Most guys I notice only do one style of bows.
But I see you see doing pin nocks, full size ones. Rounded ones.
Yep, thats the one I am shootin for. I like that. The second picture that is.
First one looks nice but I guess not finished.
Thats one thing I notice about you Kent. Most guys I notice only do one style of bows.
But I see you see doing pin nocks, full size ones. Rounded ones.
I like to play around with things. I guess you could say im an A.D.D. bow maker.
04-10-2009, 12:36 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: IPE/Boo Glueup
Good news, after I worked on floor tiller, I got back more reflex. I got around 2". I hope I keep 1" when its done.
Bad news is I was using a electric hand planer just smoothing things, and ran over my left index finger and left middle. I don't have any finger prints but it could have been much worse. Didn't go to the bone, only chunk of meat.
Stupid mistakes.
Got my overlays on my tips. Using bull horn and elk bone. and got my handle glued on. Can't work on until next week. Hopefully get to long string tiller by then. I want this girl bending more.
Bad news is I was using a electric hand planer just smoothing things, and ran over my left index finger and left middle. I don't have any finger prints but it could have been much worse. Didn't go to the bone, only chunk of meat.
Stupid mistakes.
Got my overlays on my tips. Using bull horn and elk bone. and got my handle glued on. Can't work on until next week. Hopefully get to long string tiller by then. I want this girl bending more.