Bare shaft shooting
09-16-2008, 10:09 PM
#1
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 9,445
Bare shaft shooting
Explain to me how you go through the exact process on bare shaft shooting/tuning. I'm not sold I have the right exact set up yet for my recurve. I want to try this but I'm a little inexperienced on this bare shaft shooting/tuning.
09-17-2008, 05:20 AM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 7,208
RE: Bare shaft shooting
I don’t have the link here, but it’s a pretty often posted one over on tradgang. I think its from the ACS (or ALS) website??
But in “my” terms, I pick a shaft size & leave it long. Usually 4 total, 2 fletched, 2 bare. Figure on a rough point weight and if you are planning to shoot weighted inserts. NOTE: The weight up front makes a big difference whether it is a normal insert & heavy head, or weighted insert & normal head. Those weighted inserts are long and I believe change the “useable” shaft length.
Shoot all 4 arrows aiming at the same spot. (Hold bow vertical) BS right of FS = weak BS left of FS = Stiff.
Up and down can be adjusted as well depending on BS/FS POI. I have a tough time because my release is such I am almost always nock high no matter how I set my nocking point.
Usually with a long arrow your shafts will show weak. Cut ¼-1/2” off at a time, carbon shafts stiffen quickly. You can fine tune with adjusting point weight as well. I usually stop when my shafts still shot a little bit weak. When shooting hold the insert into the shaft by pressing them thru a plastic grocery bag when inserting them into the shaft, then you can just pop them out and trim off from the front.
Many people say to ignore nock left/right for tuning purposes but I disagree. It seems to go hand in hand.
Hopefully I didn’t confuse you too much. That website is very helpful and thorough, I don’t have it book marked here at work.
But in “my” terms, I pick a shaft size & leave it long. Usually 4 total, 2 fletched, 2 bare. Figure on a rough point weight and if you are planning to shoot weighted inserts. NOTE: The weight up front makes a big difference whether it is a normal insert & heavy head, or weighted insert & normal head. Those weighted inserts are long and I believe change the “useable” shaft length.
Shoot all 4 arrows aiming at the same spot. (Hold bow vertical) BS right of FS = weak BS left of FS = Stiff.
Up and down can be adjusted as well depending on BS/FS POI. I have a tough time because my release is such I am almost always nock high no matter how I set my nocking point.
Usually with a long arrow your shafts will show weak. Cut ¼-1/2” off at a time, carbon shafts stiffen quickly. You can fine tune with adjusting point weight as well. I usually stop when my shafts still shot a little bit weak. When shooting hold the insert into the shaft by pressing them thru a plastic grocery bag when inserting them into the shaft, then you can just pop them out and trim off from the front.
Many people say to ignore nock left/right for tuning purposes but I disagree. It seems to go hand in hand.
Hopefully I didn’t confuse you too much. That website is very helpful and thorough, I don’t have it book marked here at work.
09-17-2008, 06:42 AM
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 7,571
RE: Bare shaft shooting
Hey, Arrows by Kelly does not even recommend it. Its funny though how their charts are pretty much right on though (I usually check after breshaft tuning).
What I do maybe a little different. I first tune only with bareshafts. What I want if straight flight, accuracy,and straight impact (most people allow a nock right impact (right handed shooter)). After I juggle to get what I want (that could be a whole nother topic), I then shoot some fletched arrows to make sure they are flying correctly. I don't believe the fletched arrows were ever off though after shooting bareshafts first (you could have clearance problems that you may have to adjust though).
I always try to shoot a few unfletched arrows every week.
What I do maybe a little different. I first tune only with bareshafts. What I want if straight flight, accuracy,and straight impact (most people allow a nock right impact (right handed shooter)). After I juggle to get what I want (that could be a whole nother topic), I then shoot some fletched arrows to make sure they are flying correctly. I don't believe the fletched arrows were ever off though after shooting bareshafts first (you could have clearance problems that you may have to adjust though).
I always try to shoot a few unfletched arrows every week.
09-17-2008, 08:22 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Bare shaft shooting
I love bareshaft tuning. OL Adcock has a good section on it
http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Basically, you shoot 2 bareshafts and 2 fletched. Note where they hit in relation with each other. If you bareshafts tend to hit right, then your a little weak.If they tend to hit left, your a stiff. For a weak arrow, lower your point wieght, or cut down your arrows some by 1/2" at a time. If your stiff, increase point wieght. I want my arrows slightly weak. That way when I put my feathers on, they should be perfect. Also, in a tree stand if one has the tendency to short draw, it will not affect fight as much. Arrow spine adjustments are sensitive to you a crisp release. This is the one reason, I wouldn't recommend it for new archers to finger shooting.
Bareshaft is really good for vertical nock point adjustments. If you bareshafts hit low, your either hitting your shelf (too loo nock point) or too high. I like to start my bows out high and slowly move down until my bareshafts hit perfectly with my fletched arrows.
Follow up your bareshaft with broadhead tuning. And maybe paper tune. Also shoot your arrows 30 yards and notice what they are doing. If all the stars line up, your set.
I discussed this with Bryon Fergonson, about his section in his book. And he said its all he uses. He explained its nice to carry some bareshafts, and make adjustments when on a hunt.
http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Basically, you shoot 2 bareshafts and 2 fletched. Note where they hit in relation with each other. If you bareshafts tend to hit right, then your a little weak.If they tend to hit left, your a stiff. For a weak arrow, lower your point wieght, or cut down your arrows some by 1/2" at a time. If your stiff, increase point wieght. I want my arrows slightly weak. That way when I put my feathers on, they should be perfect. Also, in a tree stand if one has the tendency to short draw, it will not affect fight as much. Arrow spine adjustments are sensitive to you a crisp release. This is the one reason, I wouldn't recommend it for new archers to finger shooting.
Bareshaft is really good for vertical nock point adjustments. If you bareshafts hit low, your either hitting your shelf (too loo nock point) or too high. I like to start my bows out high and slowly move down until my bareshafts hit perfectly with my fletched arrows.
Follow up your bareshaft with broadhead tuning. And maybe paper tune. Also shoot your arrows 30 yards and notice what they are doing. If all the stars line up, your set.
I discussed this with Bryon Fergonson, about his section in his book. And he said its all he uses. He explained its nice to carry some bareshafts, and make adjustments when on a hunt.
09-17-2008, 01:07 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Too close to Chicago
Posts: 3,337
RE: Bare shaft shooting
I love it.
How it's done is pretty well covered.
WHY it's done is this...
By adjusting so that bare shafts and fletched shafts hit the same POI, you have proven that your arrow is flying to the same destination without the need for the flight correction that fletching can provide. Gives me big peace of mind on the hunt.
The fletching's job is to provide stability when the arrow is released properly. It also provides shot-saving flight correction in the event of a bad release.
The fletching's job is NOT to correct the flight of a properly released, but poorly tuned arrow. Tuning with bare shafts will indicate errors in flight that can be masked by fletching correction. You can chase your tail all day paper tuning and never uncover the small errors that are blatantly obvious in your first group of bareshafting. I've seen the difference.
The longer the range (like 40 yards), the more obvious your errors will be, and the more fine-tuning you can do. Bare arrows that hit just a few inches off the mark at 10 yards can missthe entirebackstop by 3 feet when they plane over longer distances. Start in close, and move back as you get them tighter.
Note: Once you get out to 40, you may notice that the fletched shafts are now hitting lower than the bare ones. Drag is taking its toll. Disregard.
How it's done is pretty well covered.
WHY it's done is this...
By adjusting so that bare shafts and fletched shafts hit the same POI, you have proven that your arrow is flying to the same destination without the need for the flight correction that fletching can provide. Gives me big peace of mind on the hunt.
The fletching's job is to provide stability when the arrow is released properly. It also provides shot-saving flight correction in the event of a bad release.
The fletching's job is NOT to correct the flight of a properly released, but poorly tuned arrow. Tuning with bare shafts will indicate errors in flight that can be masked by fletching correction. You can chase your tail all day paper tuning and never uncover the small errors that are blatantly obvious in your first group of bareshafting. I've seen the difference.
The longer the range (like 40 yards), the more obvious your errors will be, and the more fine-tuning you can do. Bare arrows that hit just a few inches off the mark at 10 yards can missthe entirebackstop by 3 feet when they plane over longer distances. Start in close, and move back as you get them tighter.
Note: Once you get out to 40, you may notice that the fletched shafts are now hitting lower than the bare ones. Drag is taking its toll. Disregard.
09-17-2008, 01:19 PM
#7
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 7,571
RE: Bare shaft shooting
Note: Once you get out to 40, you may notice that the fletched shafts are now hitting lower than the bare ones. Drag is taking its toll. Disregard.
