My newest hunting bow, And build along.
#51
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Oh don't be telling everyone you have that Cocobolo, I called it first!!! LOL
Did I tell you what it cost me $8,976.34
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That isn't work Russ. As I mentioned this AM when we talked I've been in a ditch running electrical conduit all week.
I work smarter not harder
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#53
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Awesome work Burnie and i look forward to seeing her all finished and in a photo with its first harvest, hopefully a nice big buck.
This thread sure has got me keen on a long bow and i have chatted to Russell about getting one made for me and he can sure as heck expect an order for a Kanga from me in the near future.
This thread sure has got me keen on a long bow and i have chatted to Russell about getting one made for me and he can sure as heck expect an order for a Kanga from me in the near future.
#54
Dominant Buck
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
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Thanks all
I have now cut out the handle and started shaping the tips. I cut out the handle with the bandsaw, as well as cutting out the shelf. I then radiused the shelf on the disc sander. My camera batteries were dead, so I have no pics of the cut out. I then started shaping the tips and handle with my dremal tool, 4 way rasp, triangle file, and chainsaw file.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding008.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding010.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding009.jpg)
Here is the basic shape of the handle. Ill finish shaping and sanding then put on a finish.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding004.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding005.jpg)
I have now cut out the handle and started shaping the tips. I cut out the handle with the bandsaw, as well as cutting out the shelf. I then radiused the shelf on the disc sander. My camera batteries were dead, so I have no pics of the cut out. I then started shaping the tips and handle with my dremal tool, 4 way rasp, triangle file, and chainsaw file.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding008.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding010.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding009.jpg)
Here is the basic shape of the handle. Ill finish shaping and sanding then put on a finish.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding011.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding004.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipeboosanding005.jpg)
#56
Dominant Buck
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
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ORIGINAL: Kanga
Looks real good mate.
Have you test shot it yet?
Looks real good mate.
Have you test shot it yet?
#57
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Goodness burn, I can't believe you flew thru a bow that quick. I worked two hours this weekend with the gizmo you showed me. It made all the difference in the world tillering.
That bow you built is a my dreambow to build.
That bow you built is a my dreambow to build.
#60
Dominant Buck
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
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ORIGINAL: bigcountry
Hey kent, how do you taper the boo like that? Do you use a sander and just sand more closer to the tips?
Hey kent, how do you taper the boo like that? Do you use a sander and just sand more closer to the tips?
Bigcountry
I sand and keep a real close eye on the thickness with calipers. So yes, I do sand more on the tips and leave more at the belly. I do it with my bench belt sander, but have done it just as easy with my hand belt sander. I usually can eyeball it and have a method of sanding that usually gives a natural taper. Once ive got it flat, I make my first pass about 10 inches in from the tips, then the next stroke ill start about 20 " in then the next will be from the midline. and then Ill do it all agian. The whole time keeping up the with the thickness by using my claipers. I will even measure marks about every 4"-6" from the tips and use them are reference points when I measure. Ill measure from the sides, as well as the thickest part of the boo in respect to the refernce marks. Some times ill clamp pieces of wood on either side of the boo, at the handle area, the size of the static portion of the bow, and look at the tiller of just the boo. I dont get too anal about the tiller of the boo because it wont make much of a difference once its stuck to the bow. You can make up for messed up boo flatening when you tiller the bow. The big concern with boo is that you dont have it too thick. It will over power most woods. If you have too thick of boo, you might tiller away all your wood. Ive not done it, but ive seen bows that this happened with. I would not go over 1/8 inch with the densest woods.
An easier method, which I know many people do, is called knife edgeing. Simply sanding the whole thing down till you get a knifes edge all around the boo. The only thing I dont like about this method is, the nodes on the boo donot like to follow thisgame plan. Also, ifyou are offwhen you cut the boo, you might be a tad offon its simicircle shape and can get a lopsided boo. Dont get me wrong, boo is not all that hard to deal with, these are just a few things to keep in mind.
Ill be putting on a finish on this bow tonight, hope to have finished pictures soon. I think I found a place to get some good ipe and ive got enough boo to make 4 more bows. I just might make a few more ipe boo bows in different designs. I have ignored this combo toooooo long. I guess the plywood bows (as Art calls them
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