Shooting to the right
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Shooting to the right
ORIGINAL: crawdad375
Right handed and shooting feathers. Like I said I am new to traditional so do you shoot the spine weight lighter than you would in a compound. If so how do you figure the deflection?
Right handed and shooting feathers. Like I said I am new to traditional so do you shoot the spine weight lighter than you would in a compound. If so how do you figure the deflection?
Well, those spines are .4" and .35" accordingly. I meanI shoot .35" for a 70lb compound. And .4" for a wheeledcompound. For a bow like that, you would want .45". Or you can increase your point wieght. I bought points from 100gr to 250gr jsut for these purposes. I suggest bareshaft tuning using various point wieghts. You don't have a movable rest to compensate for stiff or weak arrows like compound, so you have to do it by cutting shaft length or increasing point wieght.
Alot of this depends on your release how crisp it is.
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Shooting to the right
The guys have covered most things that can cause shooting to the right. One thing has yet to be mentioned though. Are you sure your anchor puts the arrow directly under your eye and not to the left of it?
Stand in front of a good sized mirror, draw your bow and aim at your eye in the reflection. Is the point of the arrow aimed at your eye or off to the right? If you're not looking directly down the arrow at your eye, then let down and move your anchor to the right and try again. Keep doing that until you find the magic spot where everything lines up.
Stand in front of a good sized mirror, draw your bow and aim at your eye in the reflection. Is the point of the arrow aimed at your eye or off to the right? If you're not looking directly down the arrow at your eye, then let down and move your anchor to the right and try again. Keep doing that until you find the magic spot where everything lines up.
#13
#14
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: Shooting to the right
If it were me, id bare shaft test the arrows to see if its a spine issue. If its not, then id work on my grip and follow through. Might be hand torqueing it.
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Moravia NY USA
Posts: 2,164
RE: Shooting to the right
Probably way overspined - to the point where the tail of the shaft is hitting the riser and kicking left so the point goes right.
What works best for me is the tuning method at the following link: http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
Going way up in point wieght will weaken the dynamic spine if you do not have other arrows available. I believe the Horne is cut only to 1/8" of center - a 460 to 500 deflection (depending on point wght) should work better.
Steve
What works best for me is the tuning method at the following link: http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
Going way up in point wieght will weaken the dynamic spine if you do not have other arrows available. I believe the Horne is cut only to 1/8" of center - a 460 to 500 deflection (depending on point wght) should work better.
Steve
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Shooting to the right
ORIGINAL: crawdad375
What distance do you usually shoot when you bare shaft test?
What distance do you usually shoot when you bare shaft test?
#18
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 119
RE: Shooting to the right
i would even try to do alittle blind bale shooting and maybe it is a mind thing. when i shot my compound alot and would have problems i would do that and pull everything back together. as itturned out for me, most of my problems were in my head.
#20
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Moravia NY USA
Posts: 2,164
RE: Shooting to the right
Try the bareshaft grouping method at the link I gave you - it takes some of the form errors out of the equation allowing you to get a better read on if your spine is close.
Steve
Steve