[Deleted]
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: California
Posts: 600
RE: Arrows and Feathers Question
Welcome Brian, it's good to see you posting here with us.
Even with all the info (exact draw length and weighed poundage of bow at your draw), we could only make an edumacated guess as to what arrow will fly well from the bow. A blind guess would say that a 1916 cut long with a heavier point weight would probably work for the curve, but trying to match up an aluminum arrow to both your compound and curve could present a problem. I feel that anything that would shoot good from the compound will be extremely stiff for the curve. I can't speak for carbon though. There may be a shaft out there that'll shoot well from both of them.
As far as fletching is concerned, I prefer 3 5" shield cut left wing feathers fletched up with a left helical. Some prefer the longer and taller 5 1/2" fletching for better broadhead stabilization. Left and right helical doesn't really matter as long as the feathers match. Left wing for left helical and right wing for right.
Sorry I can't be of more help with a shaft.
Make them sharp and shoot them straight, or leave them home.
Even with all the info (exact draw length and weighed poundage of bow at your draw), we could only make an edumacated guess as to what arrow will fly well from the bow. A blind guess would say that a 1916 cut long with a heavier point weight would probably work for the curve, but trying to match up an aluminum arrow to both your compound and curve could present a problem. I feel that anything that would shoot good from the compound will be extremely stiff for the curve. I can't speak for carbon though. There may be a shaft out there that'll shoot well from both of them.
As far as fletching is concerned, I prefer 3 5" shield cut left wing feathers fletched up with a left helical. Some prefer the longer and taller 5 1/2" fletching for better broadhead stabilization. Left and right helical doesn't really matter as long as the feathers match. Left wing for left helical and right wing for right.
Sorry I can't be of more help with a shaft.
Make them sharp and shoot them straight, or leave them home.
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: west terre haute In USA
Posts: 22
RE: Arrows and Feathers Question
After researching eastons site and their shaft selector heres what i came up with.
recurve:
2213 easton xx75
125 grain broadhead
28" length
compound:
2213 easton xx75
75 grain broadhead
28" length
this worked for a medium cam bow unsure what yours is
also i have hade mixed results with traditional equipment and shaft guides ive found it best to use it as a guide a place to start but I would buy 1 shaft of the size you select start at full length shoot it and make some notes about its flight. then remove the insert trim by 1 inch if you have decent but not perfect flight 2 inches if it flies wildly. continue this until you reach your draw length, if your notes were kept and you shot the arrow at each length enough to determine the flight of the arrow. you should be able to tell if that size is compatible with your equipment/ your style of shooting. if not go back to the chart and select another and try again. but this way your only out the price for one arrow and not a dozen. with this method you should be able to tune your traditional arrows to perfect arrow flight without feathers or vanes in place. there is a lot of variables in your shooting technique that would make this seem inpossible but it can be done.
With you wanting to use the same arrows for both bows i would first see if the 2213 could be tuned to shoot from the recurve because with a recurve you dont have much to tinker with to acheive perfect arrow flight and with the compound you can adjust the draw weight knocking point and arrow rest to help acheive perfect flight.
Depending on your experience level with tuning a compound I think the 2213 might be a difficult but do-able solution. then again if the chart is right and you have a medium cam compound it might be simple as pie.
as for feathers I think a parabolic cut would be apropreiate as it would lend itself well to most compund rests and be quieter at higher speeds. and Waha is absolutely right as to the left wing right wing and left and right helical. Personally I like the 5 inch feathers as it makes broadhead tuning a little easier because with 5 inch feathers it will be hard pressed for the broadhead to overpower and steer the arrow . example : I have a cutter that cuts 5.5" pope and young style cuts on feathers. they are a big tall feather. but even with an arrow that has a bent tip , shooting broadheads. They will steer the arrow and it will shoot.
hopefully Ive been some help
Bob
recurve:
2213 easton xx75
125 grain broadhead
28" length
compound:
2213 easton xx75
75 grain broadhead
28" length
this worked for a medium cam bow unsure what yours is
also i have hade mixed results with traditional equipment and shaft guides ive found it best to use it as a guide a place to start but I would buy 1 shaft of the size you select start at full length shoot it and make some notes about its flight. then remove the insert trim by 1 inch if you have decent but not perfect flight 2 inches if it flies wildly. continue this until you reach your draw length, if your notes were kept and you shot the arrow at each length enough to determine the flight of the arrow. you should be able to tell if that size is compatible with your equipment/ your style of shooting. if not go back to the chart and select another and try again. but this way your only out the price for one arrow and not a dozen. with this method you should be able to tune your traditional arrows to perfect arrow flight without feathers or vanes in place. there is a lot of variables in your shooting technique that would make this seem inpossible but it can be done.
With you wanting to use the same arrows for both bows i would first see if the 2213 could be tuned to shoot from the recurve because with a recurve you dont have much to tinker with to acheive perfect arrow flight and with the compound you can adjust the draw weight knocking point and arrow rest to help acheive perfect flight.
Depending on your experience level with tuning a compound I think the 2213 might be a difficult but do-able solution. then again if the chart is right and you have a medium cam compound it might be simple as pie.
as for feathers I think a parabolic cut would be apropreiate as it would lend itself well to most compund rests and be quieter at higher speeds. and Waha is absolutely right as to the left wing right wing and left and right helical. Personally I like the 5 inch feathers as it makes broadhead tuning a little easier because with 5 inch feathers it will be hard pressed for the broadhead to overpower and steer the arrow . example : I have a cutter that cuts 5.5" pope and young style cuts on feathers. they are a big tall feather. but even with an arrow that has a bent tip , shooting broadheads. They will steer the arrow and it will shoot.
hopefully Ive been some help
Bob
#4
RE: Arrows and Feathers Question
Personally, I'd start with a 2016. If you draw 28" with a compound, and are just starting off on recurves, you might draw a little less.
A 2413 will be WAY overspined for that bow. Shooting 53# @ 32" with a hot string, I've got to use 145 grain tips to get 2413's weak enough.
JRW
A 2413 will be WAY overspined for that bow. Shooting 53# @ 32" with a hot string, I've got to use 145 grain tips to get 2413's weak enough.
JRW
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Toledo Ohio USA
Posts: 394
RE: Arrows and Feathers Question
I'd really recommend wood shafts. After shooting wood then shooting aluminum, aluminum arrows seem way to loud. I know they work, but too loud for my comfort. If you really wnat to go with aluminum, then no one can nay you. I really doubt you'll find an aluminum shaft that'll work for a 45# recurve and a 65# compound. When I'd my 45# recurve I used wood shafts in the 50-55# spine weight. They're also the same shafts that shoot well out of my 53# longbow. I also shot 2016s out of my recurve that seemed to work well, however they're junk out of the longbow. That might be why they're so loud; quien sabe? Whichever way you go, get a few arrows of the different sizes you're considering and bare shaft tune. You can find some info about it a www.bowmaker.net I reckon you could use 50-55# shafts with a 125 gr. head, but you can try some other groups also; maybe 45-50# and 55-60#. See which ones work best and go with it. My knowledge is no doubt limited, but this is what I've learned from reading and shooting. Hope you've fun with your bow and find some good arrows.
God bless,
Brandan
#6
RE: Arrows and Feathers Question
All good information. Trying to use the same arrows with recurve and compound is not a task I'd like to take on. But ... why would you want to shoot the compound if you've got a perfectly good recurve available ?? <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
Good info and welcome to the board, bentstick. Looks like some research on your part. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
http://www.hotspothunting.com/common...end=0&id=18984
Romans 8:28
Good info and welcome to the board, bentstick. Looks like some research on your part. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
http://www.hotspothunting.com/common...end=0&id=18984
Romans 8:28
#9
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Morrison TN USA
Posts: 14
RE: Arrows and Feathers Question
I picked up a 44# recurve to fine tune my form with and 1916's with a 125 grain point fly perfect out of it. Like others have said, 2413's would be WAY too stiff. Unfortunately the 1916's would be severly underspined for your compound, so there's not much way you will be able to get one shaft to shoot good out of both. I also like 3 5" feathers. If the spine is right that will be plenty of fletching. If you want to shoot a heavier arrow either go with wood shafts or try a 2016 with a heavier point.