Bus Cable installation
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 150
Bus Cable installation
I bought a new cable for my PSE Carrera and installed it last night. This bow is 70#, and has a 5 7/8" brace height. I scaled it after putting the cable on, and it only went to about 62#, so I twisted it up 5 turns, it still only went to 64-65#.
Do I need to keep twisting it up?
Where am i measuring brace height from? The bottom of the throat on the grip, or the back of the shelf at the flat spot?
From the throat of the grip, brace is 6-61/8", from the back of the shelf, it's 5 3/4".
Will this come into spec. by twisting up the cable?
Thanks for the help.
Do I need to keep twisting it up?
Where am i measuring brace height from? The bottom of the throat on the grip, or the back of the shelf at the flat spot?
From the throat of the grip, brace is 6-61/8", from the back of the shelf, it's 5 3/4".
Will this come into spec. by twisting up the cable?
Thanks for the help.
#3
RE: Bus Cable installation
You measure brace height from the deepest part of the grip to the string. 6 1/8" in your case.
You said you just replaced the cable. Is that right? If so then probably the string has stretched over time so the bow will not be close to specs anymore. Find out what the brace and ATA should be. You may have to twist up the cable and the string together to get things back in spec. Twisting both will also put more preload on the limbs bringing up the poundage.
Are you sure it was the cable? Or the string?
You said you just replaced the cable. Is that right? If so then probably the string has stretched over time so the bow will not be close to specs anymore. Find out what the brace and ATA should be. You may have to twist up the cable and the string together to get things back in spec. Twisting both will also put more preload on the limbs bringing up the poundage.
Are you sure it was the cable? Or the string?
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 150
RE: Bus Cable installation
Are you sure it was the cable? Or the string?
Most likely, the string has stretched also as it is the original from'99.
Which will cause what effect, does twisting the string increase poundage, or the cable? I always thought the bus cable increased poundage as it was shortened. Which also increased draw length, so you would have to twist the string to get back to spec.
Will I have to twist both to get the brace height back to spec @ 5 7/8"? Do I have to twist both to get to the correct poundage?
I double checked the factory cable length before ordering the cable, PSE only gives a "cable tune" number, and you have to look up the length in their tuning book, which I had done.
#5
RE: Bus Cable installation
I wouldn't even mess with this thing. You need to replace the string, too. A string should be changed every three years at the most.
To answer the other questions I'll start from scratch. You have a string and cable on your bow. New or used doesn't matter. If you want to increase the drawlength you twist the cable shorter or untwist the string (or both). This will also cause a corresponding weight increase.
If you want to decrease the drawlength then you twist up the string (shorten it) or untwist the cable (or both). This will cause a loss in peak weight along with the drawlength change.
If you want to maintain the present draw but gain peak weight then you twist up both the string and the cable, putting more preload on the limbs. This also causes the ATA to get shorter and the brace height to become taller.
One thing I would say is that you also need to take a pencil and mark the side of your cam where it passes through the limb. This will give you a visual check of which way the cam is rotating when you start twisting things up or down. This is one of the first things I do after I shoot a new bow about 100 shots to settle the string.
Something else you can do with the pencil marks is, over time tell whether your string is stretching out and how much. If you got factory string then you will most likely be adjusting them quite often. Get some decent aftermarket strings.
To answer the other questions I'll start from scratch. You have a string and cable on your bow. New or used doesn't matter. If you want to increase the drawlength you twist the cable shorter or untwist the string (or both). This will also cause a corresponding weight increase.
If you want to decrease the drawlength then you twist up the string (shorten it) or untwist the cable (or both). This will cause a loss in peak weight along with the drawlength change.
If you want to maintain the present draw but gain peak weight then you twist up both the string and the cable, putting more preload on the limbs. This also causes the ATA to get shorter and the brace height to become taller.
One thing I would say is that you also need to take a pencil and mark the side of your cam where it passes through the limb. This will give you a visual check of which way the cam is rotating when you start twisting things up or down. This is one of the first things I do after I shoot a new bow about 100 shots to settle the string.
Something else you can do with the pencil marks is, over time tell whether your string is stretching out and how much. If you got factory string then you will most likely be adjusting them quite often. Get some decent aftermarket strings.
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,358
RE: Bus Cable installation
Might be to late now, but ALWAYS measure everything before taking the old cable off. Then put the new one on and get it back to how it was before you replaced it.
As for getting the bow back to spec, put on a new string as well, then play with it to get it to spec.
To raise draw weight you twist the cable and untwist the string, this will also increase draw length. You can increase weight and not increase length by twisting both, this will also play with the BH and A-A as well.
As for getting the bow back to spec, put on a new string as well, then play with it to get it to spec.
To raise draw weight you twist the cable and untwist the string, this will also increase draw length. You can increase weight and not increase length by twisting both, this will also play with the BH and A-A as well.
#7
RE: Bus Cable installation
I agree with Bob H on this ,while you have it apart replace the string as well there's no sense replacing your cable without replacing your string. Contact Gibblet he's making string's and cable's and is doing a great job of it .I have his string and cable's on now, I have about 500 shot's on it and so far there's no sign of stretch or creep but then with 452X there really shouldn't be too much creep at all.
nubo
nubo
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 150
RE: Bus Cable installation
Uh, Duh
The first thing to do is make sure the limb bolts are bottomed out, so after doing this, the brace and ATA are much closer, and the bow miraculously goes to 70#.
Now I've over-twisted the cable, and untwisted the string too much, but that is easy to remedy.
What effect would there be using a 452X string and an 8150 cable? The cable is a Shooters Edge 8150 12 strand.
The first thing to do is make sure the limb bolts are bottomed out, so after doing this, the brace and ATA are much closer, and the bow miraculously goes to 70#.
Now I've over-twisted the cable, and untwisted the string too much, but that is easy to remedy.
What effect would there be using a 452X string and an 8150 cable? The cable is a Shooters Edge 8150 12 strand.
#10
RE: Bus Cable installation
what is 8150? do you mean 8125? 12 strands? are you sure. reccomended strand count for 8125 is 18 +/- 2 stands. do you mean 12 stands of each color? i'd like to know. the string and cable need to be about 5 times stronger than the force your bow will put on it, and 12 strands total would not do it. most people who are going to mix would use 8125 for the string for the supposed added speed and 452x for the cable for the extra stability.