loop width
#5
RE: loop width
I like as short a loop as possible, so I tie/serve two nocking points on. One just above the arrow knoc and one just below. Then I tie on my string loop around the outside of the served on nocking points. It does two things, 1. It prevents the served on nocks from moving and 2. The served on nocking points keep the string loop from moving. Everything is nice and tight and because the upper and lower nocking points are tied/served on and not brass, it keeps things light.
It's a little tough getting the string tied especially if you have a shorter string loop, but once it's on and pulled tight you have enough room for any type of release and the arrow nock has a nice cradle to sit in. Just make sure you adjust your served on nocking points before you put your string loop on because it much tougher to move everything at once.
It's a little tough getting the string tied especially if you have a shorter string loop, but once it's on and pulled tight you have enough room for any type of release and the arrow nock has a nice cradle to sit in. Just make sure you adjust your served on nocking points before you put your string loop on because it much tougher to move everything at once.
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,358
RE: loop width
For width, you want the nock to fit without being pinched, no more. If you do more, you can get inconsistent nock points and the arrow might move during draw/shooting depending on the tightness of nock fit.
For length, longer is better for forgiveness, one of the things a loop does is reduce twist on the string as you draw, longer is better for this. However longer means you need to either move your anchor point (bad idea) or shorten the draw length of the bow.
--Bob
For length, longer is better for forgiveness, one of the things a loop does is reduce twist on the string as you draw, longer is better for this. However longer means you need to either move your anchor point (bad idea) or shorten the draw length of the bow.
--Bob