gibblet

i'm still not sure how paper can lie. its a snapshot at that distance. i understand an arrow can be completely corkscrewing by the force applied to it and still give a bullet, i've seen the film, and give a bullet while if you back up 6 ft be way off. that's why the walk back tuning was suggested. really, why not skip paper all together. i do.

isn't it common for a right handed release using compound bow shooter to have their pins 1/8" to 1/4" to the left of the arrow in true center at rest because of the torque applied by the string and cable getting pulled over
to go through the cable slide? and isn't this issue compounded on shorter ata bows. i'm just not sure why you guys are going straight into serious issues about cracks and stuff already when most people polled in a thread about this have their pins left (AT). i also don't mean any offense cause i know you guys have the ability to go waaaay over my head.

Arthur P

It might be common, but common doesn't mean correct. It just means a whole lot of people have gotten their bulletholes and, since they figure paper can't lie, they quit tuning before they actually got their bows tuned.

That can be the case, but enough torque to cause a misalignment of 1/8-1/4" of the sight pins from the arrow is a heckuva lot of torque! Not even fingers shooters - with all the lateral paradox they have to contend with - have to offset their sights like that.


There are a whole mess of problems with short ata bows. Especially short bows with heavily reflexed risers. Yes, torque is one of those problems definitely enhanced by crappy bow design.

But still, the sight pins should be over the arrow.

You ask why not skip paper tuning completely.... Actually, I'll bareshaft tune some, but walkback tuning is my bread and butter. Haven't farted around with paper tuning at all in several years now. I quit it when I decided to quit beating my head against the wall, trying to get carbon arrows to shoot worth a flip.[&:]

zak123

How can I tell that my cams are leaning? I don't want to eye ball it and not be right.

gibblet

thanks arthur.

C-WOODS-SHOOT

Zak, every bow I have ever shot has been the same as yours, pins just to the left (right handed shooter) of the string when lining up the tip of the arrow and string as you stated. There couldn't have been a problem with every bow I have owned. The common denominator would be myself. Center shot gets you close and then you paper tune to fine tune the bow to your personal form. Shooting those bullet holes is whats important and even more so when shooting broadheads. If you can go out on any given day and shoot a bullet hole through paper then you have consistent form. I guess what I am saying is IMHO don't worry if your pins aren't perfectly lined up with the string. ( I'm assuming they are just slightly to the side). Your arrow grouping is the only thing that matters. Another thing to think about is you are lining them up at brace, what do they look like at full draw? You'll never know.

ewolf

I have a test. Move your rest to shoot through paper perfect. Now change your point weight, what happens to your centershot?

Straightarrow

I use paper tuning to set my nocking point close. I do not use if for centershot. I can get that real close by just measuring. Then it's walk-back tuning that is required to get both exact.

CAJUNBOWHNTR

Here's what I think happens to a lot of people.They pick an arrow for their bow from the charts,pick a point weight they want to shoot anf then try and paper tune.If it's not shooting bullet holes they move the rest.What you should do is set your center shot and then work on your arrow spine.Center shot is center shot.What you are doing is making adjustments based on arrow spine or maybe torque problems.Set your center shot then play with bow poundage,tip weight arrow length etc.Then it will be right.Granted you can get a bow shooting decent the other way,but IMO it will not be as forgiving.I dont have a problem with making very slight adjustments to the rest.But if you are making major adjustments and or your pins are way out of wack that should throw up a red flag.



CB

JoshKeller

I tune in a very simple fashion. I shoot into a block target (or something similar). I get 2 broadhead arrows, and 2 field point arrows. I shoot the field points into the bull, then shoot the broadheads.. I correct the rest (in/out, up/down) to get the broadheads and fieldpoints hitting in the same spot. If you mess with it enough, it will be perfect. Out of the 8 bows I've owned, after doing this, I've gotten bullet holes through paper 100% of the time.

Straightarrow

Josh,

What you're doing is similar to the guys who try to get a bare shaft to group with their field tips. I use to do that with some pretty good success. Lately, I've just been doing the walk-back tuning with broadheads and have found it to give me the best results in the shortest time.