ewolf

Yes, a single pin. Or make the arrows so you can tell the order in which you shot them. I use different nock colors to tell them apart. I would just use a single pin for simplicity.

Elkcrazy8

Just because a bow is in center shot does not mean that it is tuned. A person does not draw like a machine due to body conformation. Most people will shoot better when not on center. Center shot is only a starting point, that is where I feel that group tuning by bare shafting comes in. It tells me how I am shooting the bow and not a machine that pulls the bow back for me to align it. Bows must be conformed to the person and not the machine. I think that I have beat this subject up enough. Good luck to all of you in the upcoming archery season.

BOWFANATIC

I dont recall anyone saying that ("bareshafting tells centershot") but I'll play along.
Bare shaft tuning first and foremost is a tuning process to find the perfect spined arrows!!
I , along with many others , also take it a step further to achieve the best arrow flight possible for hunting purposes.

Guess what you just described? Do that same test with bare shafts and let us know the results. When bareshafting I do the "backup method". I think your just misunderstanding what we're trying to say.
When everything is set perfect , along with perfect spined arrows , my bareshafts will impact exactly like my fletched shafts and they all impact straight as you described.
I've done the line check (draw straight line) method I think your refering to and when I've tried it after my bareshafting process it was always perfect.

I'm not saying that bareshafting is "The End All Tuning Process". I'm just saying that for hunting purposes and getting fixed blade broadheads to fly great , the bareshaft process has worked B..E..A..UTIFUL for me.

Elkcrazy8

Amen Bow fanatic!!!!

BTM

Whenever this subject comes up almost nobody mentions whether they are shooting fingers or release. I've always heard that bareshaft testing applies mainly to finger shooters; is that correct or not?

Should you add internal weight to the rear of the bareshft to make up for no vanes?

Also: When I tune using the walkback method, the fletched arrows line up vertically at all distances, but the bare shafts hit to the left. (Broadheads also fly left of field points no matter how much I move the rest in or out.) It's been this way on eight bows over eight years with four different brands of broadheads with various shaft stiffnesses. String loop and no vane contact. Comments?

ewolf

This test should be used by everyone. Generally the bareshaft will act backwards for fingers and release shooters. This is generally, sometimes they act backwards of what they should.

Somepeople add weight to the back of the shaft, some don't really just a personell thing. I fletch all of my arrows up, and just rip the feathers off and leave the bases.

As for the left bareshafts, if you are a right handed release shooter, generally this means weak arrows. To fix weak arrows you can do many things. 1. Shorten your arrows 2. decrease draw weight 3. decrease point weight. Any/All of these should move your bareshaft to the right. Now, if you make these changes and it is not helping 2 things could be happening. 1. Your arrows are simply way underspined and you need to buy stiffer ones 2. Your bareshaft is acting backwards and you need to reverse these steps to make the arrows weaker. This is how I would fix the bareshafts (Make sure you use more than 1 bareshaft)

Sorry Bow but looking back through your post I never saw you mention the step back method. I only saw you talking about bareshafting, and I saw alot mention about moving arrow rest. Doesn't that mean that it tells you the perfect centershot?

bakerwonderhound

Wow, you guys really know your technical stuff. I wish one of you lived next door to me. Why don't you read my post on spine and answer that beginner question. Thanks

BOWFANATIC

Yes. Thats what I eluded to earlier. I can start out by measuring , eyeballing , or even using a useless center shot alignment tool , but when all is said and done after moving the rest in micro adjustments thats when I feel I have true center shot , or alot closer than I started.

See , I knew we were on the same page , just different paragraphs.

liquidorange

i use that useless center shot tool to get me started. i would never trust my eye . im righty and with a whisker buscuit i always end up slightly left of center. im not technical or anything but i do feel that everyone should experiment with there set up because with so many variables between equipment and form the bottom line its where the arrow hits. i spent a couple hours moving my center shot around and formulated what works best for my bow. it was even kinda fun[:-]

Sniper151

Soilarch, bare shaft tuning will fine tune the arrow from release to impact. Center shot, rest height and nock set height can be established to a finer degree with a bare shaft.