Draw Length vs Arrow Length on Dropzone Guide Series
#1
Draw Length vs Arrow Length on Dropzone Guide Series
So I just ordered a leftover 04 Bowtech Patriot s/c. I also ordered quite a few accessories as well, one of which is a Drop Zone Guide Series.
I typically draw 29" with a loop. How far behind the riser's rest hole is the actual rest arm on the dropzone? How long of arrows @ what draw length are other users going with on the dropzone? I want my arrows to be as short as possible on this setup, and want to order some new Gold Tips or Easton Axis ST's within the next day or so.
Thanks!!
I typically draw 29" with a loop. How far behind the riser's rest hole is the actual rest arm on the dropzone? How long of arrows @ what draw length are other users going with on the dropzone? I want my arrows to be as short as possible on this setup, and want to order some new Gold Tips or Easton Axis ST's within the next day or so.
Thanks!!
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: Draw Length vs Arrow Length on Dropzone Guide Series
Depends on how you set the rest up, you can get some overdraw to it. I have mine set up with 2 inches of overdraw. I have a 26 inch draw length and can shoot 23.5 inch arrows out of it. At this length the head is still over my shelf. I could probably get about another 3/4 to 1 inch out of it if I wanted to. Your set may be different though.
With my Muzzy Zero effect I could get even more. I think I shot 21 inch arrows out of it once screwing around. They didn't fly to bad either, 1714's with 5 inch feathers I think. Looked pretty strange, but didn't fly too bad, at 20 yards any way. I used them for spots a couple of times just too see what they would do.
My advice would be to not do it though. I would set the Drop Zone up as close to the shelf as you can and shoot the correct length arrow (about 3/4 to 1 inch less than your draw length). This would give you the most forgiving set up. Don't believe the hype about drop aways, hand torque can still effect your shot. And overdraws magnify hand torque. The only advantage to overdraws is to get a lighter aluminum arrow to spine correctly. With all the new arrow choices it isn't worth the trade offs in my opinion. If you want lighter arrows, just get lighter arrows. Unless you are dead set on using aluminums. And remember when using shorter arrows the spine will change so you will have to get different arrows. You can't just cut 2 or 3 inches off your current arrows. Well, you can, but they would be pretty stiff.
Just out of curiousity may I ask why you want to shoot an overdraw with shorter arrows? Not knocking you or anything, just want to know is all. I do it sometimes, but I know the ill effects and am just messing around. My set ups eventually find thier way back to the correct length arrows and the rest set up above my grip, or as close as I can get it.
Paul
With my Muzzy Zero effect I could get even more. I think I shot 21 inch arrows out of it once screwing around. They didn't fly to bad either, 1714's with 5 inch feathers I think. Looked pretty strange, but didn't fly too bad, at 20 yards any way. I used them for spots a couple of times just too see what they would do.
My advice would be to not do it though. I would set the Drop Zone up as close to the shelf as you can and shoot the correct length arrow (about 3/4 to 1 inch less than your draw length). This would give you the most forgiving set up. Don't believe the hype about drop aways, hand torque can still effect your shot. And overdraws magnify hand torque. The only advantage to overdraws is to get a lighter aluminum arrow to spine correctly. With all the new arrow choices it isn't worth the trade offs in my opinion. If you want lighter arrows, just get lighter arrows. Unless you are dead set on using aluminums. And remember when using shorter arrows the spine will change so you will have to get different arrows. You can't just cut 2 or 3 inches off your current arrows. Well, you can, but they would be pretty stiff.
Just out of curiousity may I ask why you want to shoot an overdraw with shorter arrows? Not knocking you or anything, just want to know is all. I do it sometimes, but I know the ill effects and am just messing around. My set ups eventually find thier way back to the correct length arrows and the rest set up above my grip, or as close as I can get it.
Paul
#3
RE: Draw Length vs Arrow Length on Dropzone Guide Series
Just out of curiousity may I ask why you want to shoot an overdraw with shorter arrows? Not knocking you or anything, just want to know is all. I do it sometimes, but I know the ill effects and am just messing around. My set ups eventually find thier way back to the correct length arrows and the rest set up above my grip, or as close as I can get it.
Paul
Paul
I am very familiar with overdraws and how shorter shafts affect spine, as well as sensitivity to hand TQ, on my old setup I had to go with an overdraw setup to even get speeds of 250fps (older PSE), I simply was curious if the Drop Zone offered any overdraw, or if it made overdraw mandatory.
#4
RE: Draw Length vs Arrow Length on Dropzone Guide Series
Yes sir, if it's an overdraw effect that you want, then you can certainly have it with the TR DZ. I have my XTEC set @ 28 1/2" draw and my CX 3D Selects are cut 26 1/2".
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: Draw Length vs Arrow Length on Dropzone Guide Series
Well then yes you can get some out of it, about 3 inches with my set up. And it does have some amount regardless of how you set it up, maybe an inch or so because in order for the arm to drop it has to be behind the shelf. Same way with a muzzy or any other drop a way that works this way. It doesn't mean you have to shoot shorter arrows though. Another way to drop weight would be to use a lighter tip, or use nibbs that don't require an insert and use smaller vanes or switch to feathers. These would all lower over all weight, but would also effect your FOC and spine.
As far as spine goes though unless you are shooting a lot of draw weight I would say those arrows will be stiff any way. I would rather get lighter arrows then shoot an overdraw, but if you already have the arrows it would be an expensive change. I couldn't afford it. I would most likely do what you are going to do and just cut them down and try it.
You could try everything I suggested and gain even more speed. Cut them short, plus use lighter compenents as well. You could also ditch the loop and use a tied on nock set. Then lengthen your draw length so you get the same anchor point as you did with the loop. You might gain about an inch of draw length this way.
Paul
As far as spine goes though unless you are shooting a lot of draw weight I would say those arrows will be stiff any way. I would rather get lighter arrows then shoot an overdraw, but if you already have the arrows it would be an expensive change. I couldn't afford it. I would most likely do what you are going to do and just cut them down and try it.
You could try everything I suggested and gain even more speed. Cut them short, plus use lighter compenents as well. You could also ditch the loop and use a tied on nock set. Then lengthen your draw length so you get the same anchor point as you did with the loop. You might gain about an inch of draw length this way.
Paul