nock point for finger shooting.
12-30-2004, 07:05 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19
nock point for finger shooting.
I'm new to archery and need help setting my nock point for finger shooting. I've been told to have everything square, and the nock point will be high from center. This might sound kind of dumb, but I don't know what high from center means nor how to achieve it, (where is center?) or how to square the bow etc. I shoot a short bow 30 inch A/A. Its set for a release now because I'm told that I wont be able to shoot with fingers with a 30 inch bow, however, when I fool around without the release, I shoot OK without it. Did I mention that I hate a release. Anyway, can anybody give me some tipson how to set my bow for shooting three fingers under.
12-30-2004, 07:42 AM
#2
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location:
Posts: 249
RE: nock point for finger shooting.
First off, welcome to the board.
ah, you would make arthurp proud. 
(dig through the archives and look at some of his posts, then you'll get the joke )
i recently gave up the release (for all the obvious reasons) and started shooting with fingers this past season. man, did i feel free! a 30" ata is pretty short for fingers. that said, my current bow is a 34.5" ata (i didn't want to purchase a new bow for fingers) and i had a lot of people tell me the same thing, "its just too short to shoot with fingers." and maybe it is, but i shoot pretty good groups with it out to 35yds pretty comfortably. (of course i practiced A LOT.) however, for my next bow purchase i will buy a bow that is 40"+ ata.
first thing i would do is set my rest up so the bottom of the arrow, while on the rest, will line up with the bottom of the berger hole. then i would take a bow square (or have someone do it for you) and set your nocking point 1/8" (maybe even 3/16") above the horizontal line that runs through the bottom of the berger hole, through the bottom of your rest and hits the string perpendicular. this is a good starting point, and you can fine tune it from there.
do a search through the archives for a thread i started called, "switching from mech to fingers". i got a lot of good info and advice in there.
there are a lot of knowledgable archers here that can answer all your questions.
Did I mention that I hate a release.
(dig through the archives and look at some of his posts, then you'll get the joke ) i recently gave up the release (for all the obvious reasons) and started shooting with fingers this past season. man, did i feel free! a 30" ata is pretty short for fingers. that said, my current bow is a 34.5" ata (i didn't want to purchase a new bow for fingers) and i had a lot of people tell me the same thing, "its just too short to shoot with fingers." and maybe it is, but i shoot pretty good groups with it out to 35yds pretty comfortably. (of course i practiced A LOT.) however, for my next bow purchase i will buy a bow that is 40"+ ata.
first thing i would do is set my rest up so the bottom of the arrow, while on the rest, will line up with the bottom of the berger hole. then i would take a bow square (or have someone do it for you) and set your nocking point 1/8" (maybe even 3/16") above the horizontal line that runs through the bottom of the berger hole, through the bottom of your rest and hits the string perpendicular. this is a good starting point, and you can fine tune it from there.
do a search through the archives for a thread i started called, "switching from mech to fingers". i got a lot of good info and advice in there.
there are a lot of knowledgable archers here that can answer all your questions.
12-30-2004, 08:51 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cornwall, Pa.
Posts: 1,720
RE: nock point for finger shooting.
SB, You need a bow square to get started. This item attaches to the string with an extension that sits on your rest. There is a scale on the side attached to the string with a "0" mark that referenced the point where the string is square to the arrow and string when on your rest. Attach the square and rest the extension on your rest where the arrow would cross the rest. Now check the scale and attach your nock so that the bottom of the nock is 1/8" above the "0" mark. This is a good starting point. When you have this done, check the Easton catalog on how to fine tune your setup. You may have to move the nock set slightly to fine tune your setup.
12-30-2004, 09:14 AM
#4
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: nock point for finger shooting.
First thing you need to do is go buy a bow square. 
If you look around, you'll likely find a square in a set with nock pliers and a set of hex wrenches. You're gonna need all of those goodies. If you find the set, it'll be the best 20 bucks you've ever spent. Then do what sho-me outlined for you. The only thing I'd add is to make sure your tiller - how the strength of your limbs are balanced with each other - is right.
With your new bow square, measure from the each end of your riser, at the junction with the limbs, and check to make sure the measurement is the same on each end. You can change the measurement by adjusting the limb bolts - backing off to raise the string, or cranking down to lower it. So, if one end is higher than the other, you can either tighten the limb bolt on the high end, or back off the limb bolt on the low end.
When you've made sure the tiller is even, then you can start in working on your nock height. As for that, I can't tell you exactly where you'll wind up. A lot depends on what diameter arrows you shoot, what type of cam(s) is on your bow, how you grip the bow, what kind of rest you're using... All I can say for sure is, shooting 3-under generally demands a slightly higher nockset than shooting split fingers.
It really IS gratifying to see others who choose to shoot with their God given fingers instead of using mechanical contraptions. I hope you do well with that shorty bow. You might find it helpful to drop a finger when you get the bow drawn and use a 2-under release.
If you look around, you'll likely find a square in a set with nock pliers and a set of hex wrenches. You're gonna need all of those goodies. If you find the set, it'll be the best 20 bucks you've ever spent. Then do what sho-me outlined for you. The only thing I'd add is to make sure your tiller - how the strength of your limbs are balanced with each other - is right.
With your new bow square, measure from the each end of your riser, at the junction with the limbs, and check to make sure the measurement is the same on each end. You can change the measurement by adjusting the limb bolts - backing off to raise the string, or cranking down to lower it. So, if one end is higher than the other, you can either tighten the limb bolt on the high end, or back off the limb bolt on the low end.
When you've made sure the tiller is even, then you can start in working on your nock height. As for that, I can't tell you exactly where you'll wind up. A lot depends on what diameter arrows you shoot, what type of cam(s) is on your bow, how you grip the bow, what kind of rest you're using... All I can say for sure is, shooting 3-under generally demands a slightly higher nockset than shooting split fingers.
It really IS gratifying to see others who choose to shoot with their God given fingers instead of using mechanical contraptions. I hope you do well with that shorty bow. You might find it helpful to drop a finger when you get the bow drawn and use a 2-under release.
12-30-2004, 09:48 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19
RE: nock point for finger shooting.
Thanks Guys for the quick reply. To answer Arther P's question, I shoot a PSE Firestorm Lite single rimfire cam and as far as arrow diameter weight etc, I confused. My bow calls for a 300 grain arrow or more I don't know what type to get however, I do wan't carbon. Any tips?
12-30-2004, 12:51 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994
RE: nock point for finger shooting.
It really IS gratifying to see others who choose to shoot with their God given fingers instead of using mechanical contraptions. I hope you do well with that shorty bow. You might find it helpful to drop a finger when you get the bow drawn and use a 2-under release.
I was next door shooting, and remembered this thread. My compound is 30.5" ATA, so I grabbed it, nocked an arrow, grabbed the string with my God given fingers and pulled back. It felt sooooo good, so natural. I stood about 7 yards for the target, knowing the bow was tuned and sighted for release shooting and not wanting to miss, stared the target down and simply let go. It felt soooooo good, so natural, and the arrow nailed the spot I was looking at.
I was shocked. Obviously, I had to do this again.
I backed up to 10 yards, then 15, 20 and 25, my max I can shoot indoors. I'll be danged if I didn't shoot every bit if not more so accurately with my God given fingers than I ever have with any release I've ever used. And it felt natural, spiritual, like I was actually shooting a bow, not a mechanical instrument. I was connected to the arrow flight, not simply flipping a switch.
Even at 30.5", I didn't have an issue with string pinch, using split finger, 1 up 2 down. I tried dropping to just one up and down, but it felt wierd, so I quit it. Sure there was string pinch, if you define pinch as me being able to feel the upper and lower string on my fingers. Certainly not inducing torque or causing pain, and not messing with arrow flight in the least bit.
I have two tags left to fill in the next two weeks, and I plan to leave my release at home. Shooting my compound is fun again. I'm currently funded to buy a new bow next year, and I'm thinking an old glory (or similar) with some heavy skinny arrows tipped with big old snuffers (or similar) doing about 270 fps may be just what the Dr. ordered...
12-31-2004, 07:17 AM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: nock point for finger shooting.
Nah, burn yer release strap instead.
SB919, I think the very best carbon arrows are Easton ACC's, but that's because they've got an aluminum core that gives them consistency that no all-carbon arrow can match. They're expensive, @ $140 a dozen. If I used them, I'd limit them to only target, 3D and big game. But I love hunting small game with my bows, so I need less expensive ammo. Stuff that wouldn't cause me heart failure if I lost one.
My favorite non-aluminum, synthetic arrow is Carbon Express Terminator Select, a fiberglass/carbon composite arrow. It's good weight to deliver a solid thump to a bunny or squirrel behind a blunt, or to drive a broadhead deep. They're straighter and more consistent than any all-carbon arrow I've tried. And they're tough.
Don't shy away from aluminum because of the horror stories about them bending. They are grossly exaggerated, nearly to the point of stupidity (and I'm being overly generous saying 'nearly'). Stick with the shafts that have a wall thickness of .015 or more and they are plenty durable. Wall thickness is the last two numbers of the size: example 2216 is a shaft with an outside diameter of 22/64" with a .016" wall thickness. 2315's have a diameter of 23/64" with a .015" wall thickness. The trade-off is durability for weight, which means less arrow speed. But when it comes to accuracy and consistency, aluminums are hard to beat.
SB919, I think the very best carbon arrows are Easton ACC's, but that's because they've got an aluminum core that gives them consistency that no all-carbon arrow can match. They're expensive, @ $140 a dozen. If I used them, I'd limit them to only target, 3D and big game. But I love hunting small game with my bows, so I need less expensive ammo. Stuff that wouldn't cause me heart failure if I lost one.
My favorite non-aluminum, synthetic arrow is Carbon Express Terminator Select, a fiberglass/carbon composite arrow. It's good weight to deliver a solid thump to a bunny or squirrel behind a blunt, or to drive a broadhead deep. They're straighter and more consistent than any all-carbon arrow I've tried. And they're tough.
Don't shy away from aluminum because of the horror stories about them bending. They are grossly exaggerated, nearly to the point of stupidity (and I'm being overly generous saying 'nearly'
). Stick with the shafts that have a wall thickness of .015 or more and they are plenty durable. Wall thickness is the last two numbers of the size: example 2216 is a shaft with an outside diameter of 22/64" with a .016" wall thickness. 2315's have a diameter of 23/64" with a .015" wall thickness. The trade-off is durability for weight, which means less arrow speed. But when it comes to accuracy and consistency, aluminums are hard to beat.
