jsasker

Sounds like yo need to "test drive" a few before you buy!

jmac_or

I think that just about sums it all up. Shoot a speed bow and then shoot one of the others mentioned. Make sure you have an arm guard on. Speed is fun, but not the answer. I too shot the Liberty, Justice, Outback, and others before I ended up with my current selection. I would also advise you look at a bow in the 36"-38" axle to axle range. For newer archers, they can help build a more consistant form, while providing a very stable shooting platform. All bows can be shot accurately, it really is the dummy behind the bow that makes all the mistakes. Just give yourself the best chance from the start and pick a smooth, forgiving setup and you will enjoy it much more. It is much more fun to drill the X or the deer at 280 fps than to sling for 8's all day and shoot a pie-plate group.
Always have fun,
JMAC

Bowshopper

If you are not in a hurry wait until after the Archery show in January. Let everyone else spend their money on the new bows first, then you will get feedback on the new designs for 05. If you don't like what you see, you may find a new 04 model that is reduced in price from a dealer.

PABowhntr

If you want something with decent speed and more forgiving shooting characteristics then one of those three criteria I mentioned earlier (brace height, draw cycle, riser geometry) should be somewhat more forgiving. For example, take a look at the Bowtech Patriot Single Cam. You are still talking IBO speeds in excess of 320 fps with a 7 inch or better brace height. The riser is still relatively heavily reflexed and the cam is not as smooth to draw as their Freedom cam but the slightly larger brace height should add some to the forgiveness level of the bow.

Same thing goes for the Mathews Outback (while not looking at the axle to axle length). The Outback has a slightly larger brace height to add some forgiveness though it also has a moderately reflexed riser and a relatively stiff drawing cam.

My suggestion would be to look at bows with brace heights over 7 inches and IBO speeds over 310 fps. Axle to axle length should be at least 34 inches in order for to get some forgiveness from that aspect of the bow's design....though the actual riser/limb configuration also play some part in it.

Hope this helps.

KONK

Go to the local archery pro shop and shoot several different bows. The bows that you mentioned, did a friend or relative suggest these. Just because someone tells you this bow or that bow is the hot ticket, doesn't mean it will be for you. Shoot a bunch, shoot em all, buy one that YOU are comfortable with.

Pinwheel 12

Good advice from many, best thing is to go and shoot MANY brands of bows yourself, then choose. Many times one gets caught up in the hype (and sometimes BS) and chooses simply due to "advertised ratings", or ads, or simply brand name, and this is the biggest mistake anyone could make.

Why?

There is not a bow made on the planet that will fit EVERYONE perfectly due to their individual statures and form posture, that is why different manufactuers build different geometries and different people like different bows. To say one bow that is made out of the same 6061 riser material, same gordon glass limbs, same eccentric design and force draw curve, same bearings, axles, strings, and same film dip or anodize is better than another of the same build materials is ludicrous from a material/build standpoint. Only when you see higher grade materials being used in either the riser or limbs, or tighter tolerances in the build due to the production and quality control moving at a slower and more deliberate and precise pace, can you say "hey, that may be a better bow". Other than that it is simply based on personal preference to the geometry of the overall design.

Every once in awhile, you get the higher-grade materials and exacting craftsmanship and quality control all rolled into one package. It isn't often, but if you look hard enough you'll find there are a few GREAT bows out there. (but only a few) The rest are usually GOOD, and yes, there are a few made who I would say are only "FAIR".


Try them ALL, (or at least as many as possible) THEN decide. Good shooting!

Pinwheel 12

muzzyman88

Another thing I didn't see mentioned was if you're going to hunt with this bow. If you are, the BK II and the mathews you mentioned have very short brace heights, whichi n turn most likely will translate into arm slap if you have your bulky hunting clothes on. This will effect accuracy as well.

Everyone is giving sound advice. Look for a milder shooting bow that has medium ATA and a generous Brace. You'll be a lot happier in the long run and will shoot it extremely accurate in just about any environment.

Also, I'd just like to point out that you definitely seem to be open minded and willing to learn. Not taking offense to what is being suggested to you. I commend you on that. Seems lately there are a lot of people on this board, and others who ask a question, then flame everyones response. Go figure

zak123

Accuracy kills, speed thrills.

A slow bulls-eye is better than a fast miss.

BOWFANATIC

Why? It sounds as though you've been mislead somewhere. Can you explain to us why exactly your stuck on speed (300fps minimum)?

Elkcrazy8

Amen bowfanatic. I was wondering the same. At those speeds, if a fixed broadhead is used. I don't think that most could shoot them without some type of plaining problem. If a flat shooting bow is what you want, let me save you some time. I shoot ALOT of 3-D and thought that I needed 300 fps or higher to remain competitive. I did a test switching from 423 grain arrows to 350 grain arrows. I broke the 300 fps barrier and my groups opened up slightly. Using my sight settings my 20 yard group raised. I was pleased thinking that I would shoot flatter. I adjusted my sight for 20 to hit right on. To my amazement. All of the pins were hitting right on. I was astonished that up to 50 yards there was no noticeable change in point of impact to 50 yards from 285 fps to 300 fps. The only difference was that the lighter arrows traveling faster speeds were not as pinpoint accurate. I opted for the heavier set-up and went on to take a state title
last year along with a turkey and a bull elk. I just got my new bow for this year and opted for a longer brace heighth(8.25 in.) and am using 405 grain arrow. This is proving to be more accuate yet as my indoor 3-D and NFAA scores have come up since I have changed set-ups. Accuracy is the name of the game. I would much rather have a slow arow in the boiler room than a fast arrow in the shoulder blade. The new bow is shooting 283 fps. just right for me.............