dohcrxl

My Golden Eagle is set at 55lbs making 220ish fps (so I'm told)

2 part question:

a) Will increasing the draw weight to 60 make that many more fps incrementally? If so, is there a rule of thumb that says increasing such and such poundage should increase such and such fps?

b) What speed will my arrow need to be traveling in order for deer not to be able to duck it?... and while I'm at it, do deer usually jump or duck when they do?

Thanks

zak123

Turning your bow up 5 lbs will only add a few fps. I am shooting at 58 lbs and am getting about 220 fps also. Your arrow needs to go 1200 fps+ (I believe) in order for a deer to not jump the string. Deer duck under the arrow then take off.

bayfire300

dohcrxl
there are alot of variables to take in to consideration here
what kinds of arrows are ya shooting alum or carbon?
what is your letf off in %?
what is your draw lentgh?
how many item do have on your string such as peeps and silencers

you will gain a few fps by increasing draw weight but you will also gain a more by using carbon if ya dont already.
i shoot 70#'s carbon arrows and i'm gettin 295-300 fps(bowtech mighty mite)
let off will also slow a bow bown for instance the same bow at 65% will be faster than 80%

also peeps and silencers will slow it down a few fps
but keep in mind the fastest bow on the market today will still not be fast enough for a deer not to jump the string
the key is to have the quietest bow you can ..speed is nice but it aint everything......also shoot whats comfortable to you.....maybe over 55 is not for you....you can always try it and go back to 55

zak might be right about 1200 fps i always thought it was more like 700-800 fps but hey whats the diff not a bow made will go that fast (yet) lol

hope this helps
otto

500 fps

A rule of thumb: 1 lb increase in draw weight will give you about 2 fps. The next rule od thumb isn't quite as predictable, because it varies so much from bow to bow and cam systyem to cam system as well as the general weight range you are in, but...........

for every 4-5 grains you deduct from your arrow weight you will pick up about 1 fps..... good reason to give the carbons a try....they are the fastest way to pick up a significant speed increase......short of buying a Bowtech.

Deer usually duck, and there is no bow fast enough to overcomethis. That is why it is best to have the quietest set-up you can get and shoot at unalarmed deer (in a perfect world).

BGfisher

Just to mention it, for a arrow to be fast enough for a deer to NOT be able to duck it, it has to be going about 1100fps. That's the speed of sound. That's what deer react to. The noise of the bow and/or cheap accessories that made the noise.

Carbon arrows aren't always the way to gain speed. Everybody thinks they are, but it's not always true. There are carbon arrows that weigh more than aluminum. You gotta do your homework here.
Clean the string off. Everything on a string slows the bow down. Some things are essential like some sort of string silencer. How far from the cams are they? Closer to the center serving means a slower bow. While we're at it how long is your center serving? It only needs to be about 3-4" long. Brass nock sets? Get rid of them and tie one on---nock set that is. Kisser button? You don't need a peep ans kisser. One or the other, but not both. Got a rubber tube on that peep? There went another 5fps.
Turn the weight up 5lbs and gain about 10fps. Team this with lighter carbon arrow and get another ???????? (depends on what you're shooting now)

I just mentioned several things that could possibly gain you 20-40fps. Maybe more.
But don't give up quiet for speed. If you want real speed then just go buy a speed bow like the Martin Cougar w/ Nitrous cams.

Straightarrow

In general, the search for speed is a frutless one. If you increase your speed from 220 fps to 240 fps, you've only gained 10% more speed, which means the misses on a moving deer will only be 10% less. If a deer drops six inches before your arrow arrives at 220 fps, changing to 240 fps, will still enable the deer to drop 5.4" before your arrow arrives. Is 6 tenths of an inch worth the negatives that may also occur in the attempt to get more speed? In my opinion greater gains can be made in other areas - much greater. For instance if you learn to get closer to your quarry, the increase in success rate can be tremendous. As an example, if your average shot is now at 25 yards, and you can reduce that to 12 yards, then you will gain a greater than 50% increase in accuracy. In addition, if you're shooting a set-up that is carefully designed for a forgiving F.O.C. and better flying broadheads, you may increase accuracy by even more, even though your arrow will probably fly slower. Personally, I will trade speed for accuracy every time.

That said, there are some things that can give you better results and a bit more speed. If speed comes as a bonus, I happily accept it. However, I never search for speed by itself. Getting rid of string peeps or at least the tubing, is a good move for hunting and a speed gaining strategy to boot. Replace brass nocks with tied strings nocks, which are lighter and more adjustable. Switching to feathers will give some speed gain, while increasing F.O.C. for more stable broadhead flight. These are a few examples, and there are more, but my advise would be to always search for more accuracy, or to increase hunting effectiveness, but to resist the urge to gain speed without careful consideration of it's effect on other factors like accuracy and suitability for hunting.

dohcrxl

I'm fresh into bow hunting and realize that I'm asking questions before I can even understand the answers to them. I belong to a car forum and am a mod there so I see these types of threads all the time. Only now, I know what it's like to be on the other end. I tried looking into this site's gallery or archives searching for "basic things to know and terminology" but was unsuccessful.

Honestly, I know zippo about bows and bow hunting in general. All I know is that being out in the woods a couple times in my stand, seeing once a few does and once a 120ish class buck come almost close enough, it was the most exciting type of hunting I've ever experienced thus far. I also know that I can lay 5 inch groups at 20 yards pretty consistently. (Not sure if good or bad)

So... I benightedly but humbly ask you all to please not be irritated by the following:

Carbon fiber

I don't know. I have a vague understanding of what let off is from merely hearing the term and trying to visualize it in my head but right my wrong if you will. Let off is the percentage of the total draw weight of the bow that is required to hold it at full draw?

Why?

28"

no silencers, one peep sight with a tube for sight stability

What is that?

What is a kisser button? I'm guessing it's some device that you line the corner of your mouth with at full draw and involves the sights?

Beyond all of the above, if any of you would care to explain basic terminolgy or things to know to me, that would be greatly appreciated.

BGfisher

Man, you're full of questions. That's OK. It's one of the reasons some of us guys are on here. Insome instances we learn. In a lot of others we pass along "valueable" info that we have learned from experience.
Being as you are completely new to this there is no reason to get real technical. Ill try to keep it simple for now.

Center serving-- the serving wrapped around your string where you arrow nocks on the string. Live with what you got for
now.

Kisser button---- you don't have one on. Don't worry about it. And it's not supposed to be pulled to the corner of your
mouth like most guys do. It's supposed to "kissed". Do you kiss your wife or girlfriend with the corner
of your mouth? Most guys shoot too long a draw and that's why it's at the corner instead of the front
where it belongs. Take a look at Olympic archers.

Carbon arrows---I already explained that there are many different quality and weights of arrows. Good ones cost a bit
more than cheap ones.

Letoff------------- It's not a big thing. The difference bvetween 80% and 65% is only about 4 fps. You got what you got
so don't worry about it.

Form--------------Don't get all caught up in all the technical jargon here. Read and learn. Try to get some coaching on what proper shooting form is. Learn to perfect it. This will go a long way toward attaining accuracy. You'll learn a lot of the tech talk as you go. By shooting good form you'll teach your muscles how to have the right memory and repeat the same form over and over again. Consistency is what it's all about.
Frankly 5" groups at 20 yards are not acceptable for hunting. They should be half that or less. It will happen, too. If you get it right and have the desire then by summer you should be able to shoot 5 " groups at 40 yards.
It takes time and perseverence.

I have some websites in my bookmarks that I'll get to you that explain much of the terminology. See what I can do later to get them to you.

BGfisher

Sorry, I musta cleaned out the files. Best thing I can tell you at this point is to find some websites that feature target archery, like the NAA or NFAA. Some will disagree, but you'll learn a whole bunch more from target archers than bowhunters. At least you'll get more unbiased info about shooting the bow.

MO_Bowhnter

I believe 5" groups at 20 tds. is plenty. I would say the vital region on a deer will give you an 8" circle. But if I shot 5" groups at 20 yds., I would limit my range to 20 yds and only take broadside shots so that all of the vitals are present.

Keep practicing, you'll get better.