What do YOU look for in a bow?
03-06-2002, 01:03 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 3,058
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
As for me personally, it helps if the letters w,h,c,b,o,e and t ,are on the limbs…
Seriously…
Despite my current choice in hunting bows (which is an exception to the rule due to it’s axle to axle length) I prefer
AtoA of 37 to 41”
Brace Height ranging between 7-to7.75”
Mass weight of 4 to 4.75 Lbs bare
Solid limbs, unless it’s a Hoyt. And I prefer Recurve over straight for aesthetics (unless it’s a longbow, which is an entirely different subject).
60-65% letoff only.
Low to medium wrist grip (no super lows or medium-highs)
Wood grips w/ out a glossy/slick finish (I’ve found most rubber grips too torquey, and I HATE plastic), riser spine is my second choice if it’s not too low.
6” plus sight-window
I like a lot of reflex in the riser, as long as the riser is well designed/balanced to combat torque. I don’t shoot light reflex, neutral, or deflexed risers as well (generally, but there are always exceptions).
High perfomance (i.e. speed). Simply because I can do what I want with it…I don’t care for most 5 grains per LB setups, so I tame the speed w/ arrow weight.
It HAS to have low recoil. Vibration (riser or string) does not concern me because proper accessories will tame that. I’m not terribly concerned with bow noise either, unless it’s extreme.
Price is usually not an issue, though those days are coming to an end. Personally, I’d rather buy a last years high- end closeout, than this year’s budget to mid priced bow. I’ve had some great budget/low end bows before, but again they are the exception, not the rule.
NO GIMMICKY stuff. I like good solid basic designs. No weird cable-guards, or string stoppers, or limb pockets, or grip angles, or stuff that “bolts” through or is attached to the riser or limbs. I can barely put up with Limbsavers and Hoyt TEC risers
I want a riser, pockets, limbs, cableguard, cam or cams, string and cable: that’s it.
NO MOSSY OAK BREAKUP CAMO FINISHES..YUCK…that is the absolute worst transfer of a camo pattern to a dip finish I have ever seen…I’m being anal, yes, but it’s my money to be anal with!
JeffB
Seriously…
Despite my current choice in hunting bows (which is an exception to the rule due to it’s axle to axle length) I prefer
AtoA of 37 to 41”
Brace Height ranging between 7-to7.75”
Mass weight of 4 to 4.75 Lbs bare
Solid limbs, unless it’s a Hoyt. And I prefer Recurve over straight for aesthetics (unless it’s a longbow, which is an entirely different subject).
60-65% letoff only.
Low to medium wrist grip (no super lows or medium-highs)
Wood grips w/ out a glossy/slick finish (I’ve found most rubber grips too torquey, and I HATE plastic), riser spine is my second choice if it’s not too low.
6” plus sight-window
I like a lot of reflex in the riser, as long as the riser is well designed/balanced to combat torque. I don’t shoot light reflex, neutral, or deflexed risers as well (generally, but there are always exceptions).
High perfomance (i.e. speed). Simply because I can do what I want with it…I don’t care for most 5 grains per LB setups, so I tame the speed w/ arrow weight.
It HAS to have low recoil. Vibration (riser or string) does not concern me because proper accessories will tame that. I’m not terribly concerned with bow noise either, unless it’s extreme.
Price is usually not an issue, though those days are coming to an end. Personally, I’d rather buy a last years high- end closeout, than this year’s budget to mid priced bow. I’ve had some great budget/low end bows before, but again they are the exception, not the rule.
NO GIMMICKY stuff. I like good solid basic designs. No weird cable-guards, or string stoppers, or limb pockets, or grip angles, or stuff that “bolts” through or is attached to the riser or limbs. I can barely put up with Limbsavers and Hoyt TEC risers
I want a riser, pockets, limbs, cableguard, cam or cams, string and cable: that’s it. NO MOSSY OAK BREAKUP CAMO FINISHES..YUCK…that is the absolute worst transfer of a camo pattern to a dip finish I have ever seen…I’m being anal, yes, but it’s my money to be anal with!
JeffB
03-06-2002, 09:45 PM
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
First thing I look at is each mfr's website and go through the tech info to find out what models are available in 33" draw. That cuts the field W-A-Y down right off the bat. Next thing I look at is price. $500 + is more than I can afford to pay for a bow. That cuts the field even further.
Then, axle to axle length 40", 46-48" even better. I want the option of shooting fingers OR release.
Straight or nearly straight riser (1" reflex or deflex is fine). Machined, forged or cast riser. Shot 'em all and never had any real problems with any of them.
Dual cams with a gentle draw cycle. I want a cam that takes about 6" to come up to peak and another 4-5" or so to drop into the valley. I've come to hate drawing peak weight till an inch from the wall and slamming into it, or wearing myself out trying to ease into it.
I want a high wrist grip. This low wrist stuff to get your arm away from the low brace string is not right for me. Too torque-ish.
Brace height at least 7" and 9" would be better.
Speed. I'm more interested in the AMO ratings than the IBO speed. I will never shoot any bow at 5 grains per pound. As long as the bow set at 60 pounds will shoot a 500 grain arrow at least 220 fps, it's good to go.
I can think of only one bow on the market that fit most of my requirements, and it's price is 50% more than my max budget.
That's why I love my antiques.
Then, axle to axle length 40", 46-48" even better. I want the option of shooting fingers OR release.
Straight or nearly straight riser (1" reflex or deflex is fine). Machined, forged or cast riser. Shot 'em all and never had any real problems with any of them.
Dual cams with a gentle draw cycle. I want a cam that takes about 6" to come up to peak and another 4-5" or so to drop into the valley. I've come to hate drawing peak weight till an inch from the wall and slamming into it, or wearing myself out trying to ease into it.
I want a high wrist grip. This low wrist stuff to get your arm away from the low brace string is not right for me. Too torque-ish.
Brace height at least 7" and 9" would be better.
Speed. I'm more interested in the AMO ratings than the IBO speed. I will never shoot any bow at 5 grains per pound. As long as the bow set at 60 pounds will shoot a 500 grain arrow at least 220 fps, it's good to go.
I can think of only one bow on the market that fit most of my requirements, and it's price is 50% more than my max budget.
That's why I love my antiques.
03-06-2002, 09:51 PM
#13
Spike
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: escalon ca. usa
Posts: 25
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
23 and 3\4" ATA, recurved limbs, no cams, 46 and 1\2" nitro string, 7 and 1\2 brace, 65% let-off, 31 and 1\4" nitro cables, machined riser, no cable guard. SMOOTH!!!! FAST!! fun to shoot. Oops; sorry I did'nt buy it. As for the price, I lost track<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
03-07-2002, 12:22 AM
#14
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 33
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
I prefer a solid limb, two-cam bow with a minimum 38" length and brace height not less than 7". I want the letoff to be 65%. I don't look at speed all that much. I've taken deer with traditional equipment slower than the slowest compounds on the market today. Price isn't a major concern either. I must say I've never seen a bow I considered worth more than about $500.00 but that covers most of them anyway. The type of cam recently became quite important. I've had shoulder and back problems so energy wheels will probably grace my next bow.
03-07-2002, 12:57 AM
#15
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: calgary alberta canada
Posts: 250
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Competition bow.
25" riser
Phenominal Machining
Adjustble limb pocket's
5* offset grip.
Aqua(green) Im Irish, It's luck.
Limb's- Recurve, making a bow 68" t-t.
Carbon/Foam.. Detent'e system.
( I just received my Apex Riser)
(Hoyt FX Limb's are on the way)
Hunting bow.....
Compound.
Shorter ATA
7" brace or above.
Solid Recurve Limb's.
50-60#'s
Twin cam-Hard cam.
Smooth Draw.
( Merlin Storm twin cam)
when I can afford it.
>>>>--------o-->
25" riser
Phenominal Machining
Adjustble limb pocket's
5* offset grip.
Aqua(green) Im Irish, It's luck.
Limb's- Recurve, making a bow 68" t-t.
Carbon/Foam.. Detent'e system.
( I just received my Apex Riser)
(Hoyt FX Limb's are on the way)
Hunting bow.....
Compound.
Shorter ATA
7" brace or above.
Solid Recurve Limb's.
50-60#'s
Twin cam-Hard cam.
Smooth Draw.
( Merlin Storm twin cam)
when I can afford it.
>>>>--------o-->
03-07-2002, 05:39 AM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vinton VA
Posts: 2,978
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Frank I pretty much only hunt with my bow, but I like one that is easy to shoot, and plenty fast, and easy to maintain. here is the list In order of importance I used:
1. 7" brace height or their abouts
2. Fast, I wanted as fast a bow as I could get and still be shootable
3. Mass weight of around 4 lbs, but not much heavier
4. I wanted standerd length cables and strings, and plenty of drawlenth adjustments, I wanted this bow to fit perfectly, and have enough adjustment to play around with loops and such.
5. I also wanted a quiet bow, with a nice thin grip, two cushion plunger holes for secure rest mounting, one solid mounting cable guard that won't slip, good customer service, and quality construction. Thier are a few other little things, but for the most part this is what led me to my Darton Rampage.
TAKE YOUR KIDS HUNTING AND YOU WON'T BE HUNTING FOR YOUR KIDS
1. 7" brace height or their abouts
2. Fast, I wanted as fast a bow as I could get and still be shootable
3. Mass weight of around 4 lbs, but not much heavier
4. I wanted standerd length cables and strings, and plenty of drawlenth adjustments, I wanted this bow to fit perfectly, and have enough adjustment to play around with loops and such.
5. I also wanted a quiet bow, with a nice thin grip, two cushion plunger holes for secure rest mounting, one solid mounting cable guard that won't slip, good customer service, and quality construction. Thier are a few other little things, but for the most part this is what led me to my Darton Rampage.
TAKE YOUR KIDS HUNTING AND YOU WON'T BE HUNTING FOR YOUR KIDS
03-07-2002, 06:32 PM
#19
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Stanton PA USA
Posts: 2,213
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
This is what I look for....
1. Speed...not warp speed, but the bow must be capable of 290fps with a 29" draw @ 5gr./lb. More is OK, but not an absolute.
2. Axle to axle=38" range for 3-d/35" range for hunting.
3. One cam design/ the only twin cam I ever liked to shoot was the hachet cams from HCA.
4. For hunting, the lighter the better. For 3-d, 4lb. plus.
5. Price? Just does`nt matter. If I want it, I`ll justify it in my feeble mind somehow.
6. Brace height...6 1/2" would be minimum, prefer 7"-7 1/2".
7. Must have a thin riser @ the hand grip area. If I don`t like the grip, it can come off, but I need a thin grip.
1. Speed...not warp speed, but the bow must be capable of 290fps with a 29" draw @ 5gr./lb. More is OK, but not an absolute.
2. Axle to axle=38" range for 3-d/35" range for hunting.
3. One cam design/ the only twin cam I ever liked to shoot was the hachet cams from HCA.
4. For hunting, the lighter the better. For 3-d, 4lb. plus.
5. Price? Just does`nt matter. If I want it, I`ll justify it in my feeble mind somehow.
6. Brace height...6 1/2" would be minimum, prefer 7"-7 1/2".
7. Must have a thin riser @ the hand grip area. If I don`t like the grip, it can come off, but I need a thin grip.
03-07-2002, 07:25 PM
#20
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
There is what I do and what I tell my customers to do.
I tell my customers to choose in the following order:
GRIP - choose a grip and riser that fits your hand and how you shoot.
ATA - select it to suit your needs; if you know your needs.
BUDGET - let me know what you want to spend and I will show you what's available in that range.
CAM STYLE - speed cam(s) usually relate to harsher cam action and short valleys. Again this will get down to the application of the bow.
REFLEX/DEFLEX - I try to educate them on the differences.
BOW WEIGHT - depends again on the application.
BRACE HEIGHT - I again try to educate them on the differences.
What I do:
I shoot them all because I tune them all. When I find something I like, I buy it and try it. You wouldn't believe how many bows that I've shot for a month and then sold them as Dealer "Demo". I'm talking about the "best" of bows.
What it all gets down to in my selection is the bow that I enjoy shooting day after day after day. It's the one that fits my hand nicely while on the range and in the woods. It's the one that I can still pull smoothly at temperatures in the teens. It's the one that give me good power and decent speed with a smooth draw cycle. I have found that I like recurve limbs much better when I have the choice. Some of the shorter bows have quickly wound up on the "Demo" rack because of my draw length ratio to ATA. I have found that 36-38" ATA is generally my choice given my 29 1/2" draw. I am right now, however, about to try out a new PSE Enforcer (34" ATA). I shot this bow when the Rep brought it in and really liked it for some of the above reasons. We'll see if I'm still shooting it in about a month.
Like Sag, I prefer nicely toleranced bronze bushings over some of the bearings I see in some of these new bows. I will agree with him also on the weight of a bow. Heavier doesn't bother me as long as it provides stability. Lighter is OK as long as my accuracy and enjoyment in shooting doesn't suffer. The brace height is something that is way over-rated, IMO. Proper form allows you to shoot very low brace height, to a point, with excellent results. I can't tell you how many times I've hit my arm with the string on 8" BH bows that habitually torque with every shot, and never hit my arm with 6" BH bows that are designed better. You have to hold the bow with a VERY loose grip to experience this phenomenom. I do, however, try to put new archers in a deflex or lightly reflexed riser with as much BH as deemed necessary. In other words, I try to steer them away from a "speed" bow.
Quality of design and components will be recognized in the performance of the bow over various conditional shooting. I do check for proper tolerancing and have been know to shim and modify certain aspects of components.
Even though we're only talking about bows, don't forget that arrows are equally important in the final equation.
Frank's question cannot be solely answered on an objective note. Subjectivity has to be filtered into the equation due to objective physical differences in the archers. Think on that one, Frank. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
I tell my customers to choose in the following order:
GRIP - choose a grip and riser that fits your hand and how you shoot.
ATA - select it to suit your needs; if you know your needs.
BUDGET - let me know what you want to spend and I will show you what's available in that range.
CAM STYLE - speed cam(s) usually relate to harsher cam action and short valleys. Again this will get down to the application of the bow.
REFLEX/DEFLEX - I try to educate them on the differences.
BOW WEIGHT - depends again on the application.
BRACE HEIGHT - I again try to educate them on the differences.
What I do:
I shoot them all because I tune them all. When I find something I like, I buy it and try it. You wouldn't believe how many bows that I've shot for a month and then sold them as Dealer "Demo". I'm talking about the "best" of bows.
What it all gets down to in my selection is the bow that I enjoy shooting day after day after day. It's the one that fits my hand nicely while on the range and in the woods. It's the one that I can still pull smoothly at temperatures in the teens. It's the one that give me good power and decent speed with a smooth draw cycle. I have found that I like recurve limbs much better when I have the choice. Some of the shorter bows have quickly wound up on the "Demo" rack because of my draw length ratio to ATA. I have found that 36-38" ATA is generally my choice given my 29 1/2" draw. I am right now, however, about to try out a new PSE Enforcer (34" ATA). I shot this bow when the Rep brought it in and really liked it for some of the above reasons. We'll see if I'm still shooting it in about a month.
Like Sag, I prefer nicely toleranced bronze bushings over some of the bearings I see in some of these new bows. I will agree with him also on the weight of a bow. Heavier doesn't bother me as long as it provides stability. Lighter is OK as long as my accuracy and enjoyment in shooting doesn't suffer. The brace height is something that is way over-rated, IMO. Proper form allows you to shoot very low brace height, to a point, with excellent results. I can't tell you how many times I've hit my arm with the string on 8" BH bows that habitually torque with every shot, and never hit my arm with 6" BH bows that are designed better. You have to hold the bow with a VERY loose grip to experience this phenomenom. I do, however, try to put new archers in a deflex or lightly reflexed riser with as much BH as deemed necessary. In other words, I try to steer them away from a "speed" bow.
Quality of design and components will be recognized in the performance of the bow over various conditional shooting. I do check for proper tolerancing and have been know to shim and modify certain aspects of components.
Even though we're only talking about bows, don't forget that arrows are equally important in the final equation.
Frank's question cannot be solely answered on an objective note. Subjectivity has to be filtered into the equation due to objective physical differences in the archers. Think on that one, Frank. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>