BowtechEsq

Was wondering how many release shooters Bare shaft tune their gear. Easton's guide doesn't reference bare shaft tuning for release shooters only Finger shooters. Is there a reason for this?
Seems like the Bare shaft method would work just as well for release or finger shooters.

zak123

Welcome to the board! I have noticed this also. I would like some opinions also.

mjqood0

This question crossed my mind as well. But after a little thought, I've got an idea why?!

The fletchings on an arrow help it return to normal flight after getting off to a bad start. Finger shooters have much more of a problem getting their arrow to fly straight than a release shooter due to plucking or inconsistent release. With a release, this is much less of a problem.

However, that said, if I had any bare shafts, I'd be paper tuning with them and I'm a release shooter. I just can't imagine that over tuning is a problem unless you take it to an extreme. I guess I figure that I'd rather be sure all is well than find that my fletchings were masking a problem.

mjqood0

Oh ya! Where are my manners![&:]

Welcome BowtechEsq to the board!!!

m.t.hands

i have always bare shaft/paper tuned my bow, i believe that a good shot starts at the begining, i shoot a release, here lately people have told me that paper tuning is not required, but like i said, to me it all starts at the bow, better arrow flight from start to finish. but i'm kinda anal about my bow, oh yea welcome to the site bowtechesq

ps don't know if you've shot fingers much, but i gotta tip my hat to those guys, i have always shot a release, as soon as they came out anyway, i've got bad hands though

JOE PA

Welcome to the boards.

This is a topic of some controversy, but for me it does work, and seems to be a decent to good indicator of how open blade broadheads will fly from the same bow. Arthur P. claims it is best to weight the back of the shaft with tape or something to compensate for the weight of the fletching. I usually use a fletched arrow, and cut the main part of the fletching off, but leave the base, which is a fair part of the weight anyway. Bare shaft tuning seems to be a decent indicator of arrow spine. If the spine of the arrow is off (especially weak spine), it would be difficult to get the bare shaft arrow to fly well regardless of tuning adjustments. In almost all cases, when I have gotten bare shaft arrows to fly well, broadhead flight has not been a problem with fletched arrows, especially with some helical or offset.

BowtechEsq

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

BowtechEsq

Well I went out today and shot some bare shafts along with my field points at 25yds. Shooting through my WB my field points were hitting just right of my aim point (Maybe 1/2 to 1 inch right). My bare shafts were about 1/2 inch high and 1 to 1 1/2 inches left. The bare shafts stuck in the target with the nock end at a rightward angle to the shaft (point went left when it hit and nock went right, looking down on it from above and facing the target it looks like this \).

My question after doing this is what next? Easton says a left impact is a stiff spine (granted mine is not that far left). It says go with a heavier head or increase bow weight. I would have thought my rest was slightly off given the cant of the arrow as it stuck out of the target. Which is correct? if it is the rest that is slightly off do I move it left a tad like Easton says? seems like I should move it to the right. Is it the torque of the string that causes the nock right impact? If it is then I can see moving the rest back left to eliminate that torque. Or are my arrows truly overspined, an inch left doesn't seem like that much off.

Help!

I want my arrows flying as good as I can get and I want to familiarize myself as much as possible with this bow. My last bow was laser tuned and I thought that was all I needed. I want to learn to do this one myself.

Leverdude

I dont know but 25 yards might be too far out to try bare shafts. I'd think any breeze at all or any form imperfections would affect the arrow enuff to cause flight trouble at that distance. I did the same thing, just closer. I did it at 15 yards or so & moved my rest till they were hitting straight & with my field points. Took a little more to get broadheads to fly with them but I think the bare shaft tune helped.
I'v heard of people doing bare shaft out to 30 & beyond. I tried at thirty & couldnt bring them together. They were all over some left, some right. It was not a calm day tho.

JOE PA

IMO, it sounds like you are close. Using a Biscuit with a low brace bow can make the setup somewhat critical, so any adjustments you make should be small ones. First off, check to make sure the Biscuit is parallel to your string. If it is angled downward, that could account for the vertical difference in the impact. I would try to get the bare shafts hitting the same vertically before working on the horizontal differences. When I tried a Biscuit with my Pro 40 I-cam, I had to set the nock point pretty high to get the results I was after. If you can raise the nock point, and get them to hit the same vertically, then you could try a heavier point to see if that clears up the left flying bare shaft problem or not. It sounds like you would have to move the rest to the right, but sometimes, especially with carbon arrows, I have ended up making the opposite adjustment, and fixed the problem. Again though, go slowly and make small adjustments when you make them. Good Luck!