Straightarrow

At that distance, it can be difficult to get a perfect hit with a bare shaft. Here's and easy way to experiment. Initially, leave your rest and nocking point alone. First, mark your limb bolts so you can easily return to the exact original position. Then, get a notebook to record what you're doing. It can be confusing after making several adjustments. Increase draw weight a bit, and record what happens. Do this a couple more times. If it corrects the flight, great. If not, then decrease draw weight and record what happens. If playing with draw weight doesn't work, then move on to tiller.

Try experimenting with tiller using 1/4 turns on one limb bolt at a time. If they're both maxed out, then decrease one first, then return it and decrease the other.

After playing with these easy adjustments. If nothing is corrected, then return to original settings and then turn to the rest. Make very small adjustments (mark your original position first). It's easy to return to the orginal position if it doesn't improve flight, so don't worry about experimentation. Try moving left and right and record what happens.

In my opinion, bare shaft tuning is best used to determine correct spine. I prefer group tuning to determine exact rest and nocking point position. I seldon bareshaft tune anymore because I've learned what particular shafts like in the way of draw weight at my arrow parameters. In addition to that, I usually shoot over-spinned shafts because I believe that helps eliminate the effects of the variation in spine between individual shafts. When I bareshaft tune, I add masking tape to the fletching area, to compensate for the weight of the vanes. It's easy to measure it on a grain scale and then you always know about how many inches of masking tape it takes to compensate for particular types of fletching. I also recommend turning the nock to several positions on the bare shaft and shoot to see that it flies the same in each position. If you're not using a good arrow to test with, the results could hurt more than they help.

I think everyone should experiment with bareshaft tuning. It will be eye-opening to see the affects of changing draw weight on under-spined or bordeline spined shafts. You'll learn why spine can be so important. It's enlightening to see affects of a small turn on the limb bolts.

Sniper151

Bowtech, If you are a right hand shooter, your next step is to loosen your nock set just enough that you can turn it on the serving. Your bare shaft hitting high means your nockset is just a bit low. Give your nockset a turn up on the serving. Shoot your bare shaft again to see if impact is in the center or just low of the aiming point. You want your bare shaft to impact just a bit under your fletched arrows and center of the target. In most instances, the repositioning of the nockset will not only correct the high impact, but also the left impact because the arrow is now clearing the rest on release.

BowtechEsq

Joe PA, I agree logic would dictate my rest needs to move right a bit. The funny thing is Easton says just the opposite with nock right impact. I can only figure it has to do with the torque of the string and the angle of the shaft.

I really need to move my nock up a bit but I was nock low when I got the bow and I moved it up and still have my copper john maxed out as far as it will go down. My pins are center of the scope but the scope itself is all the way down on the bracket. My arrow flight seems ok as far as any porpoising goes. The biggest reason why I don't wanna mess with my nock is the fact that I have a tied loop.

I am more concerned with getting my center shot straight.

BowtechEsq

Straight, thanks for the info. Please correct me if I am wrong but fine tuning via bare shaft and bow weight/tiller adjustment assumes you already have you bow set properly for nock and center shot?

I was kiinda hoping to set my center shot via bare shaft method and see if I could do better than a paper tune. You group tune to set center shot and nock position? or does that technique also assume you already have a bow shooting bullet holes at distance?

Would a laser tune via an EZ-center give me a solid starting point to go from? My pro-shop says they are worthless.

Straightarrow

If these are perfect then all you need to experiment with is draw weight. However, I find it easier to experiment with bareshaft tuning, before I fine tune with group tuning.

Myself, I never use paper tuning to set anything. It's just to get close, or used to quickly verify that the arrow isn't doing something really odd. To me, using paper tuning to set nock position and rest position, is a very poor method. On my bows, I already know what settings get me close, so paper tuning is competely unnecessary. If it's someone else's bow, I paper tune to get close, then bareshaft tune to determine proper draw weight (and spine), then group tune to set exact nock position and rest position. When I get done with the bareshaft tune, there is normally very little, if anything to adjust when group tuning. But quite often, the difference between the paper tune settings and the final group tune settings, is fairly significant.

Techy

That would be my guess. I bare shaft tune my bow. I believe it makes a huge difference.