Ken B

Ok, i've poured over everything on WBs on here, and I just had one question...
PSE Nova, 55lbs, 29" draw, 2216's cut to 30.5", 100 grain field points and shockwaves, nothing helical about the vanes...




My vanes after approx. 30 shots on each arrow, get that wavy vane look, but not the black streaks....so I still am in need of tweaking the rest..right?

see the wavys?


but...where do i start? up, down, left or right? I've played with it with a headless arrow and can't see where it's rubbing, just moving through the whiskers...
this is my first bow, and for the first two years I shot it (targets only) it was the PSE rest that came on it....I switched to the WB this spring and been shooting it as set up at the pro shop...

I'm decent consistant at 20 yards (longest I can shoot at the house, from the sidewalk down the driveway into the garage into a target block. don't worry, back door gets double locked and i have a sign I put on the door saying 'HAZARD') i generally shoot 4-7 groups an evening the last two months. This is my typical 3 shot group with my top pin set at 20 yards. for some reason i'm not holding a consistant anchor or something.


any help for the newbie appreciated!

Ken B
North Texas

deertale

Looks like a good group to me...

t_miller316

have your arrows re-fletched with feathers. i use 4" feathers with right hekical and have shot mine through the rest at least a hundred times each and they still look like new. when you use plastic vanes you will get that wave in everyone of them over a little time. i would go with feathers in my opinion.

WNY BOWHUNTER1101

i'll tell u what if u don;t want to go out and buy new arrows don;t try to group them with broadheads why beacuse u might cut some feathers off or bust a arrow .. i have a block target anfd i shoot 4 arrows 1 and each dot thats how i can tell for grouping ... and i also use the wisker busket i love it this is my 2ed year with it ...


al

or try a heavyer broadhead.

mjqood0

Ken:
The wavy vane look may just be normal for the type of vanes you are shooting. Unless you had them custom fletched with a high quality vane, this tends to happen regardless of the rest setup.

Interesting you mention your anchor point. While I agree that your grouping is very good, it looks as though you shot from different heights (ie. sitting down / standing up). If I notice correctly, not all of the arrows are parallel in the target. This can mean a number of things:

1. Inconsistant anchor point. However, since you are grouping well, I'd tend to rule that out. Normally that will change the point of impact so your groupings will suffer.

2. Your bow is not tuned quite right (though it appears close from the grouping).

I would recommend paper tuning your bow to ensure the rest is setup correctly. For instructions on this, the Easton Tuning Guide is great. A lot of information but if you read it carefully and take your time, it's really not too hard to follow. It can be found on the Easton homepage or there are numerous links here if you search for something like "easton tuning guide".

Good luck and most of all, have fun!

Jeepnut

Your group looks good & the season is upon us so I'd just leave well enough alone, assuming your broadheads are flying just as well. I'd chalk the wavy vanes up to the soft material they're made out of. After getting my WB set up & shooting well, the factory Easton vanes on my ACC's only put up with about 100 shots before becoming rippled. I refletched with feathers & they've been holding up quite well. I've also found that a stiffer plastic vane like those made by Bohning hold up pretty well. I've shot some of their low profile X-vanes through the WB and they've far outlasted the Easton vanes with no signs of waviness yet.

akaSharkey

Go with the Bohning vanes. Rubbery vanes like duravanes dont hold up well. I have shot both 4 inch Bohnings and Blazers with good results

Ken B

I appreciate all the advice. I think I will wait until the off-season, switch discs and go carbon anyway, then paper tune.

mjqood0 , these are custom made at the pro-shop I use, they cut the shafts and fletch and put on the inserts, and I do think they are Duravanes. I was thinking of going fletchings, but I'll have to learn to to fletch myself, and then you have helical or straight or....and that is room for ANOTHER post. I am shooting from a seated position, at 20 yards. All shot one after another, and I feel I'm NOT anchoring consistantly, even if only a wee bit off, it doesn't feel right on each and every shot, but then it hasn't been very long since I dug the bow out of it's case.

I'm using mechanicals on the lil' deer we have around here, and with teh practice blades they fly right to the same point of aim.

appreciate all the help, I'll find the Easton manual and in the off-season try and figure things out and tune my own bow. That really really seems complicated and hard to figure out, but I'll worry about that in Feb.

thanks again

Ken B

hawgdawg

Can't tell for sure by the pics. Is that the old black version bisquit. If so you may want to get the B2 upgraded disc (brown and black bristles). They are a lot softer and that will help the vane problem out some.

Ken B

yes sir, it's the older one.

I just rotated the biscuit around and opened up the lil slot that is there with a Dremel to make it easier to load the arrow. I hated feeding it then back onto the nock.

I guess I'll take all the advice, get the WBII and then try and set it up a tad better.

Ken B