Ossage

Got you Len. Well put.

Of course, I ment to say bow arm bend, not "right arm" bend, in my second to last paragraph. Oops.

TFOX

VarmitSniper

What you said about reaching the plateau is exactly what has happened with you current form.I have been their as well as most anyone that hasn't gone out and got a coach before they even buy their first bow.I was stuck at 270 for a while and then got a bow that fit and 2 years later broke into the 290's.This is on 300 point 3d courses.I thought I was as good as I was going to get,wrong,just wrong form and equipment.

55 mentioned some good points about standing up straight and straightening out your arm a bit.(do not lock your elbow) I still believe the draw will still be a bit long even when you do this.28" or 28 1/2" would most likely do the trick.27 1/2" would be better than what you have now but I would go ahead and bite the bullet and get the right cam,you will be happy you did.Although the 27 1/2 with a d-loop would probably be good.

NorthJeff

Varmit Sniper,

Make sure you get that sling. Also, when shooting, every mussle that can be relaxed, should. That includes your face, shoulders, arms, mouth, jaw, and most importantly, your hand. If your hand is normally like that in a relaxed position, great, if not let it relax.

In order to shoot with a relaxed hand, without a sling, you have to "catch" the bow after the shot. If your hand is truly relaxed, the bow will fall right out of your hand-any bow.

Take it from someone who regulary gets to shoot with or around the best archers in the country, including Rod White, Olympic Gold Medalist-use a sling, they do.

Remember too, most people can shoot better with a draw-length 2 inches too short, than they can a draw-length a 1/2" too long. You can always bend the elbow, but you can't lengthen your arm!

Jeff...U.P. of Michigan.

Biteme/Paul Mohr

Well I shortened my draw up about an inch yesterday, we will see what happens. I don't know what the exact draw is, but if I mark an arrow at the end of my riser at full draw it is 25 1/4 inches. I refuse to go under 25 inches no matter what it does to my form! I don't want to have to buy that kids bow at walmart for my next bow. I will try it for a few months and see how I like it.

I noticed the reason it felt odd before was because I tried to use the same anchor points as before and I had a lot of bend in my arm. If I push my bow out so the string touches the tip of my nose it feels better. But that puts my arrow down by my chin. It did seem a little more accurate at 40 yards even after about 10 shots or so. I used to draw back and anchor my thumb behind my neck, it's hard not to do that after so long, Oh well.

Paul

DOE KILLER

Hey Paul, I am sure not an archery coach and most of these guys on here have forgot more than I'll ever know. But, I think that puting you finger behind the neck is a poor anchor point. I think that causes some torque on the bow. I could be wrong, and if I am someone correct me.

OHarcher

Paul
To measure your bows drawlength........ Measure from the grip throat (deepest part of grip) to the "v" in the bowstring while at full draw then add 1 3/4" this is the drawlength of the bow.
Hope this helps.

Deleted User

[Deleted by Admins]

OHarcher

VS

In most of my experiences with the Straitline Max Cam which comes on the Q2XL and Q2 they all seem to be 3/4" longer than stated...... Example=My Q2XL has a 27.5" cam but actually draws 28 1/4".
If you can get a cam which puts you within a 1/4" or so of your wingspan measurement you could do some twisting/untwisting to get that 1/4" either way without hurting the timing much.
You are also correct about shorter being better.I personally would rather be 1" too short than 1/2"long.
Good luck and give it time. Good Shootin.

Biteme/Paul Mohr

I measured my bow and the amo length is between 25 1/2 and 26 inces. I did the wingspan thing and came up with around 25 inches. So I am pretty close to what I should be.

Varmint sniper, I took some video of myself and while my arrow touches in the same spot as yours my hand is nowhere near that far back. My knuckle is right under my ear at the back of my jaw bone. I noticed something odd about your pictures. Your release is not around your wrist, it is accross your palm and the back of your hand. That could cause you to be a few inches off on your anchor. I have noticed that getting a release that fits well and is properly adjusted really helps you shoot better.

I learned some intresting things doing this. One being I can't touch the string to the tip of my nose and shoot. It makes my eyes cross! I guess my nose is too long. The other is that when you change your draw length your nock moves, at least on my bow. Glad I looked at it first.

Oh, about anchoring with my thumb behind my neck, if you let your thumb support the weight it does do strange things. I usually just lay it on my neck. But I tried it with my thumb along the bottom of my jaw and that works just as well, so I will do it that way just to be safe. Thanks for the tip.

Paul

55#recurve

www.truball.com go to this site, under backtension by Larry Wise will let you know about shot execution, it even has some stick pictures that may help. Good shooting.
Dylan


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Edited by - 55#recurve on 01/08/2002 15:43:41