HUNTER919

I'm puzzled? Recently bought a new Mathews Outback and have been shooting it every now and then to get it broke in. So far I really like it. But........I noticed when I held it like I do my old bow (9 yr. old Browning) with an open grip it appears the bow is torqued to the right. Therefore, I have been shooting with a closed grip and been getting pretty good groups. I finally decided to paper tune it today and I couldn't get good holes. I thought I'd try my old open grip style and got almost perfect holes instantly. Good holes but funny looking torqued bow. What should I do? Thanks.[&:]

BobCo19-65

Use a loose grip.

goldtip45

get a custom made grip for your style of shooting ==high,medium or low wrist. the mathews i had i took the grip off and put some two sided tape around it a few times and it worked great but i shoot low wrist. i hated there grips and i know alot of people who custom ordered one or shot right of the riser. if you like a thin grip give either one a try. all you have to do is heat the grip up with a hair dryer and take some dental floss at about three layers thick and start at the top and work it all the way down and it will pop right of. antoher thing you can do is take a dremel and sand it down to were the bulk of the grip is flat on both sides. that works good also instead of buying a custom grip

dwaasp

Many of these new short bows do feel & look different in one’s hand for awhile.

Many people can group well with a tight grip or an out of tune bow as long as they shoot exactly the same way every time, but then you will often see they will complain of the groups showing up at different places at diverse ranges.

One can use an open grip & let the finger curl loosely around the bow if one dose not want to use the sling etc., so it does not fall out of a tree when hunting. One can lose face & damage a bow that away?

A proper set-up fall-away rest appears to help some people with torque problems on the bow hand.

Bigpapascout

use a braided rope sling and do not grip the bow at all the only part of your hand that should touch the back of the grip is the meat part ofthe heel of the palm pf your hand with your wrist nearly paralell to the ground.

Derbytown

Here's a very good article on gripping the bow. Lots of great information.

http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/featu...grip/index.htm

Hope this answers some of your grip questions. Be safe.
Shoot Straight
Derbytown

Bees

I would use the grip that produces the bullet hole. than go shoot some groups. If you can group them than you are there. doesn't matter if it's really correct or not ,just has to be consistant. good luck.

AllenRead

The Mathews grips are beautiful, but hard to shoot well with. They are so wide that a consistant bow hand placement is difficult. The newer grips are better, but not as good as the after market replacements.

I shot with the factory grips for a while then changed to the shrewd grip and had to retune both my bow and my form. I had gotten so used to the torque of the factory grips that my shots were 2" right @ 20 yards with the shrewd grips. A little work on my form solved that.

All in all, the shrewd grips are better for accuracy than the factory grips.

Good luck,
Allen

Paul L Mohr

The proper grip is a RELAXED grip. Not forced open, or forced closed, don't death grip the bow. Your bow hand and arm should be relaxed. Only enough tension to keep the bow from smacking you in the face at full draw. If you force your hand open, you are using muscles which puts tension in your hand and wrist. This could cause torque because it is hard to repeat shot after shot. Same thing with holding the bow too tight.

Put your release on the bow and put some tension on your bow hand. Find the grip placement you want. Normally you want it on the thumb side of your life line on your palm. Like said above, on the meaty part of your thumb. Then draw the bow back to your anchor and let your hand relax. Let your fingers rest gently where they fall. Do not adjust your grip once you are at full draw. If it does not feel right, let down and do it again. (Obviously you are not going to do this in a tree stand with deer under you.) This is the easiest way to get a good repeatable grip. I actually curl all my fingers but my index finger in when I draw the bow. This keeps my hand placement consistant. When I'm at full draw my index finger is resting lightly on the front of the risor.

Also try to use a nuetral or mid wrist grip. Draw your bow back, then roll the top of your hand into the grip. Putting all the pressure up towards the web of your thumb. This is a high wrist grip. Then roll your hand back puttting the pressure point in the heal of your hand. This is a low wrist grip. Both of these usually require putting some sort of tension in your hand because you have to force it there, thus flexing muscles. You are trying to avoid this. Another thing that will effect grip is draw length. Too long of a draw length will promote a high wrist grip, too short of a draw length will promote a low wrist grip and can actually cause torque problems. If you have the proper draw length when everything is relaxed you should have a nuetral or medium style grip. The grip design on the bow will effect this as well. The important thing is that it is a relaxed grip and you are not forcing it one way or another after you draw the bow.

Everyone torques the bow to some degree, there is no "right way" to hold the bow. You could hold it upside down and backwards if you wanted, as long as you could repeat it all day long. The key is consistancy, then tune the bow. Grip has a profound effect on tuning. That is why some people have a very challenging time paper tuning thier bows. They have an incosistant grip or bad form. That is also why it's hard for someone else to paper tune or fine tune your bow. They may hold it differently than you do. Find a comfortable consistant grip, then paper tune or broad head tune the bow. Don't worry if the settings don't correlate with your old bow. It had a different grip, and geometry, things will be different.

Another thing that is as important or more so than grip is follow thru during and after the shot. Anticipating the release of the arrow or the the jump of the bow will cause all kinds of problems. You tend to grab the bow when you shoot. Use a back tension release or blind bale shoot and you will see what I mean. The bow will jump or roll out of your hand after the shot. Holding the bow is ok if it's after the shot. However you tend to start grabing the bow the same time you release the arrow after a while (anticipating the shot) and it messes up your shot. Another problem people have is dropping the bow arm to see where the arrow went. If you do everything right and have good follow thru you will see the arrow go all the way to the target. Your bow hand should still be up and you should still be aiming after the arrow hits the target. This is why everyone is suggesting getting a bow sling, so you can let the bow do what it wants after the shot.

Don't take what I am saying as gospel or fact, it's simply my opinion. It works for me though, and it's how I was taught and what I have read in archery books, or heard from other archers. That doesn't mean you could not hold the bow completely different and still shoot well. Archery is a very individual sport after all.

Paul