mlang

This may be a silly question, but thought I would ask before tinkering I'm pretty much a newby. Got my bow 2 years ago and it's been in shooting pretty good for that time (staying tuned). This year I had about an inch and a half cut off my arrows, they were a bit underspined for their length on my set up. Anyway, I went out to shoot it last night, for the first time this year, and I am shooting solid 3" Groups from 10-40 yards, but they are always about 3" Right from my aim point. Now I would think if the sight had shifted my groupings would be pulling farther right as I moved farther from the target, which isn't happening. So, I'm thinking it is probably my form, but I don't know what would cause this. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Arthur P

Clarify... Your groups at ALL distances are 3" right?

I'd have to ask what kind of lighting you were in when you sighted the bow vs the kind of lighting you were in when you shot those groups. If you sighted in under noontime sun and shot the goups in late evening, that could very well do it. You eye sees the pins differently in one kind of lighting than it does in another. Some sights are worse than others in that regard.

mlang

The last 2 years I have shot in all kinds of lighting conditions but it never made any diff. Yes, from all distances it was 3" off to the right.

JoshKeller

If your groups are consistant, and are flying straight, just move your sights to the right. It sounds to me like you didnt change your sights when you cut down your arrows, which affected your spine.

dwaasp

My view:

If a bow is not in tune, it will be most erratic between 6 & 10 yds, so 10 yds groups may only indicate how out of tune it is. To get the same margin of deviation at 10 yds as at 40; means the arrow at 10 yds, has recovered its erratic motion by the time it reached 40 yds.

On high speed bows over 300 fps sight pins can be close together (confusion), and you will often here the excuse on a miss kill. “ I Miss Pinned” When the pins would be close one can use a tween sight, sight picture, that is using the medium point between 2 sight pins for a sight pin. Now if you have a sight pin set for 30 yds and another at 50 yds the tween sight, sight picture is not going to be 40 yds, but about 42 yds because of the deacceleration of the arrow speed.

mlang

dwaasp, thanks for the input. let me see if I am understanding what you're saing here; The bow may be out of tune and "tossing" my arrow to the right, but by 10 yards or so out the arrow has stablized enough to follow a straight out trajectory from there on out. I guess I am having a hard time mentaly visualizing this, but I guess it's possible. I will fling some shots thru some paper tonight at a couple of yards out and see what that shows me. Thanks guys

oh, and I have an older Hoyt, I am guessing I'm spitting them out at arround 240-250ish fps or so, my pins are set at 15, 25, & 30 with about the same distance between the three, enough to see arround without a prob.

Arthur P

Well, if it's not the sight, and if you're not canting the bow, then I agree - it has to be the tune.

Here's what I'd do. Set your sight so you're hitting dead center in your aim point at 15 yards. Then shoot a couple at 40 and see where the arrow hits. If your arrows group off to the side, then adjust your centershot to bring the point of contact to center.

Then go back to 15 and adjust the sight to hit dead center again. Then go back to 40 and repeat the process there.

After a few repetitions, you'll have the arrow shooting center at all distances. That's a variation of what's called 'walkback tuning.'

dwaasp

A little more:

When a bow is not in tune, it will have the most erratic motion from about 6 to 10 yds. The arrow may never recover from this erratic motion depending on how bad it is & how much fletching you have on it. But it will improve down range.

At 2 yds you can start the tune, but move back as the tear improves, do this until you get out more than 6 yds with near bullet holes, before you call it tuned.

If you wish to set your first pin for 20 yds you can always use a little Kentucky Elevation for 15 or 10.

c903

Being you have not provided your setup specs, any attempt at troubleshooting is a guess.

If you are shooting aluminum shafts, it appears that you may now be slightly over-spined, especially if the spine was originally borderline.

Try adding some draw-weight in very small increments, and test shoot each change to see if your groups starts to move back to center. If it does and you end up with a draw-weight greater than you want to hunt with, try a shade-tree adjustment. Crank your limbs back to the original setting and move your rest to the left in very slight increments. If moving the rest does not correct the POI, and you do not want a higher draw-weight, you will have to add broadhead weight.

As I said, just a guess not knowing your specs.

mlang

Hoty excell, 29" Draw @ 62 LB, Easton XX75, 2219, @ 30", With 100 grain Points.