AllenRead

c903 is right about the spine.

The Archery Program shows that that arrow is very overspined for 62 lbs. With that bow, draw length and arrow, the spine isn't correct until I enter 70# for the draw weight.

In addition to the other suggestions above, you might also try bare shaft tuning. For more on that check out the Easton Tuning Guide.

Good luck
Allen

c903

mlang:

I know that one size does not fit all. However, for a guide, One of my compounds is set at 62# and I shoot a 32.5" 2315 with a 125 grn head. I can also use 2413's, but the 2315's fly the best.

muzzyman88

Hmmm, I tend to disagree here. If you are consistantly shooting 3" right at all distances, I'd start by moving the sight to the right and see what happens.

Typically, I've found myself hitting dead on at 20, but when I back out to say..50, I may be left or right some. Then I move the rest to get it lined up with the 20 yard group and do it all over until they are all in a vertical group. Thats group tuning.

mlang

I'll try some of these ideas and see what starts to make sence, thanks.

c903

I am assuming that the shafts hitting to the right may show up on paper as a RIGHT nock tear. If you shoot with FINGERS, for a rest adjustment you would move your rest to the RIGHT. If using a MECHANICAL RELEASE, you would move your rest to the LEFT.

dwaasp

A little more chaos, in the beginning:

Some people will:
After a bow is bought the weight is adjusted to where one wishes to shoot. It is checked to see that the tiller matches the specs. The nock is set ¼”? or whatever? Set center shot or center the rest on string position to start? All of the above may be suggested in the manual or one could get with a quick call to the shop or company. Then measures draw length. Arrows, would most likely come from a blend of bow weight, draw length, and you will find some people who will have charts for wheels, hard cams, finger shooter & etc,.

Now one will take one of these arrows and shoot into a target, there cannot no fletching contact. There are many tricks to find out, but on new fletching one should be able to tell by an inspection in a good light. Use this same arrow for awhile it is no fun refletching all of your arrows. As has been posted here. You can always spray the arrow fletch, rest, & sight window with an indicator if you wish.

If there is contact one may need to check the nock rotation, spine, release, form, nocking set-up & etc.

When there is no contact many people start with the paper testing. Start at 1 or 2 yds from the target and back up as tear improves. If you come to a point that the tear does not improve by changing the nocking point and arrow rest, then you will troubleshoot by investigating all suggestions on all of these post, starting with the easy & cheap ones first.