Stump_MN_Hunter

In c903's post, there were some terms that I've heard before and just don't know what they "actually" mean. Can you fellas help me out a bit?

1)high wrist/low wrist. I understand that this probably has to do with where your wrist is positioned, but could you explain it further?
2)bone to bone
3)low/high bow shoulder
4)back tension...I have an idea, but would like to know some more facts.
5)Over bowed. When someone says this, I assume a bow that is either too heavy to pull back or the draw length is too short/long. Is that correct? Is there more of an explanation?

Thanks

Rangeball

1)high wrist/low wrist. I understand that this probably has to do with where your wrist is positioned, but could you explain it further?

High wrist is when you "wrist" is more in line with the top of the side and forefinger V when at full draw, usually resulting in only the deepest part of the grip contacting the web between your thumb and finger. Low wrist is when it's lower, with more of the grip hitting your hand.

2)bone to bone

An alignment that takes most of your muscle out of the holding at full draw. Bow grip against base of thumb bone, arm in a position that the muscles are mostly relaxed with arm bones doing the support into your shoulder bone area.

3)low/high bow shoulder

Just like it sounds. Usually you get high shoulder if you are trying to force your arm straight. Typically seen in those shooting too long a draw length. Low should is usually found when you get in a bone to bone position, cause your muscles are relaxed. It's hard to have relaxed muscles with high shoulder, as the muscles are what's lifting it high.

4)back tension...I have an idea, but would like to know some more facts.

Holding the bow at full draw with the upper back muscles on the release hand side of your spine. Also a triggering technique, where you squeeze your shoulder blades together to fire your release.

5)Over bowed. When someone says this, I assume a bow that is either too heavy to pull back or the draw length is too short/long. Is that correct? Is there more of an explanation?

That's it.

Stump_MN_Hunter

That all makes sense now. Thanks for the explanations. I now know that I shoot with a high wrist, bone to bone with a low shoulder. Which would make sense that the first things to get tired when I shoot a lot is my back and my release shoulder. Is that correct with those types of shooting form? Also when shooting a fair amount, would it also be unknowingly normal to sort of switch from a high wrist to a low wrist or a variation of.....Thus probably torquing on the bow with your bow hand and either pulling or pushing it? Make sense? Cause I also see that in my form.

Trushot_archer

Nearly all the pros will say low wrist is the best way to go. That is...the easiest to repeat consistently and repeatedly. You can shoot an out of tune bow with a high shoulder and high wrist with a draw that's 3 inches too long and still stack arrows....if your consistent (and you have good arrows).

That being said, any change in form at all from tiring out will obviuosly change your POI at some point. The trick is to find what you can do comfortably, consistently, repeatedly that tires you the least. For most it's bone to bone, low wrist and low shoulder.


As for the grips...I had the same question about a year ago or so...this is where they pointed me. Link here

Stump_MN_Hunter

That's interesting Trushot. I guess I'm a variation of medium and high. When I concentrate on my grip...it's high....when I don't think about it and just shoot...it's probably a variation of the two. Do any of you guys see any issues with that?? Possibly pulling off with my bow hand. Whenever I miss my target, it's never up/down or right.....it's always left. Any ideas of why that is? Not enough concentration possibly? Form isn't up to par?

Thanks

Arthur P

Could be your stance making you pull off to the left. Grab your bow and head to the shooting line. Assume your stance. Close your eyes. Draw the bow and anchor. Visualize aiming at the spot. Once you've established your natural alignment and have the imaginary pin stabilized on the target, open your eyes. You should be pointing directly at your target if your stance is right (elevation might be off, but your windage should be right on). If you're pointing off to the side, you need to adjust your foot placement.

Keep adjusting your feet and blind drawing until you are aiming directly at the target when you open your eyes. Then REMEMBER to get your feet in that exact position each time you shoot. When you get that alignment burned into your muscle memory, you will be able to repeat it exactly each time, even when kneeling, sitting down, standing side-hill...

c903

That is probably true, since low and medium wrist grips are the most commonly used. However, that does not mean what is used by most is the best for all.

Remember; most bows will shoot an arrow with very good accuracy. It is only when someone puts his or her hand on the bow that things go bad. The more hand there is on the bow, the more the problems that can occur.

Try all until you find the key for you.

Stump_MN_Hunter

Thanks Arthur, I'm definitely going to try that out. Whenever I shot left like I said, I always thought it had more to do with my bow hang and it's positioning and/or grip....although still could be alittle. Never thought of my stance one bit.

Thanks again

thenuge15

Rangeball, if you squeeze your shoulder blades together to shoot wont this move your arm and your bow causing accuracy problems?

Rangeball

No idea, I've never shot backtension...



My guess is it's an abreviated squeeze with the release firing before the problems you suspect occur...