Rangeball

Or you could always work on this part of your game...

dwaasp

Thanks Ausie-guy:

That does appear the way to go. You know in the Texas Hill Country where my family came from(West of San Antonio), One can use a Lance, for the Deer without a lot of practice: & I guess the average Bow Kill is 20 yds or less.

DaveC

dwaasp,
I'm not sure why the 60-70#er I test shot was faster, I just figured my bow was slower. Please don't take my one time experience as science.
I know the higher poundaged Pat shot faster than mine even at a lower weight because I brought in the same arrow and shot it through their chrony both times I shot. (test shoot date prior to order and purchase date).
The 60-70#er shot my arrow at 289 at 62#(their scale), my bow at 65# (their scale) was shooting at ~285.
4ps less plus whatever speed the extra 3 pounds was worth.

dwaasp

Thanks DaveC:

Well I figured my bow was slower too & thought it should have been replaced by the company. I will buy both sets of limbs the 70# & the 60# to get my head clear: or at least perchance find out what, Dictionary, they are getting these words out of.
And when One reads on page 3 of the Manual & I am sure many other Manuals; it says “EVERY BOW PERFORMS BEST @ PEAK WEIGHT”.

DaveC

Maybe best doesn't necessarily mean "faster" when considering different draw weight combinations/possibilities.
I always assumed that statement referred to the vibration/ noise produced was least when at peak weight and would increase as the limb bolts were backed off. This is not jst a bowtech thing, I've read it several articles refering to compound bows in general.

If your gonna spend the dough, let us know what you find. If you like the higher draw limbs mo-better, you can always sell the 60#ers for good money.

I bet my 64-65# limbs (depending on whose scale you believe) would fetch a good price!

dwaasp

“EVERY BOW PERFORMS BEST @ PEAK WEIGHT”. This statement should mean both stability & speed, and One would think This Bow sales more for speed than stability.
When I, have jacked up bows from 53 to 63# I could not tell there was a big change in noise, vibration, or stability for the better. But it would be interesting to see how that would change a Score on the Target. Now with high speed and the target distance unknown you do read about Score changes.

dwaasp

pdq 5oh
The BC to start was a 28.5 module, & 297 at 61# for the 300gr. I had got 4 modules with this Bow. My speed was a couple less than the Pro Shop but my 2 meters read the same, the new one and the old. I was just trying to get a grasp on what these speed rates mean. My scales are not perfect so I use known weights to compare.

NwOutdoorShop

I have seen just about everything on this post....trying to get the same speed they get will be very hard to do....for 1. they are in a controled enviornment....a cold bow will shoot faster then a hot bow.....shooting through the top of the chrony verses the middle and the bottom makes a difference...also the distance from the chrony will also make a difference. Also the set on the let off ...higher let off = slower bow...And like what was mentioned in a earlier post the difference in machines....does not matter if its the same one or not...there are 3 different bow shops around here with the same chrony and you will get 3 different readings...

The fps on the bows are just a guide line for you to follow as a rating of there preformance. My Extreme Solo had a rating of 325-333 fps and the BC was 328 fps but this is just a guide..do i shoot 328 fps...NO!!!! I shoot a 450 gr arrow at 70.2# @ 295 fps with a 30" draw

Is that what the rating said....no its not....anyone who shoots a bow with that light of an arrow IMO is crazy....that light of arrow looses its energy alot faster then a heavier arrow will so what it all boils down to is your ability to hit your target and KE..that is whats important. And to have fun and enjoy the sport of archery

....Bob

PS.... You never mentioned if you where shooting your arrow with fletching or with out cuz that makes a difference. and as for your arrow nocks you have... loose nock/tight nock...single clip/double clip...theres to many differences

dwaasp

NwOutdoorShop
The truth is I have an interest in Archery and wonder how the companies get the speeds they do. I do not use a 300 gr for hunting even though I believe a bow is not stable if one needs to tie a parachute (4 or 5” helical fletching) on it to stabilize an arrow even a fixed blade Brodhead. Any target competition shooter will tell you 5” helical fletch will stop a light arrow down range. I believe if a Diamond 2 7/8” off-set fletch will not stabilize an arrow the bow is not stable. One can buy fixed blade Brodhead now that will work with the fletching to fly true, or one can Accurasize them with a little shop work. I did try tight & loose nocks & with this bow there was no difference. If you call Carbon Tech, one of the people there(I believe it’s the owner) will tell you of people who stabilize Broadheads at about 310 fps.

Rack-attack

That is 100% wrong

I don't know what you mean by "bow is not stable" - but even a perfecty tuned bow will be benefited by a spinning arrow tiped with a broad head. Even if an arrow comes out of a bow perfectly straight, and the arrow perfectly spined, and the release was perfect - It will skid or plane without spin or fletchings.

That is also 100 wrong. Again, I don't know what you mean by "bow is not stable" . But you can't use "target Archers" and the methods they use in the same sentence as "broadheads" - different animal.


I am starting to see where most of this bow/speed problem lies