JOE PA

If you shoot a bare shaft arrow off your bow and it comes out flying straight, what could be the problem with that? If your broadhead arrows come off the bow straight, so the blades have very minimal chance to steer the arrow, what could be wrong with that (assuming they group well)? I just don't quite understand how a broadhead tipped arrow coming off the bow tail high, low, right or left could possibly be more accurate, or carry more energy, penetrate better, etc. I can see the possibility, since I've seen it in print many times, that a field point or target arrow might be a little more accurate if it comes off tail high left like many target shooters try for. In that case, it wouldn't shoot real close to a broadhead arrow that would probably plane if tuned that way. But, if you tune your broadhead arrows to come off the bow as straight as possible, giving them the best possibility to shoot without planing, which shoud result in excellent accuracy, energy retention, and penetration, what in the world would make an equal weight field point shoot to any different spot? I may be pretty dim, but I can't see how a straight-flying broadhead tipped arrow is in any way limited to 20 yards, or somehow a "middle of the road" setup. A field tip arrow intended for target shooting, may be more accurate with a little "attitude" or correction, but a broadhead arrow?

WhackABuck

THESE ARE THE FACTS IN RESPONSE TO BARE SHAFT TUNING QUESTIONS!

First-off bare shaft tuning is mainly for those who choose to use aluminum arrows, however, it can be also applied to carbons as well but can be a little more difficult because all the different manufacturers and not having universal spineage guidelines.

Fletching is placed on an arrow for two reasons. #1 To combat effects of wind and and the elements effecting the flight of the arrow. An #2 to allow for an improperly chosen or improperly tuned or broadhead tipped arrow to fly straight.

#2. is the main reason fletching is on arrows for 99.9% of the bowhunting population.

The key for bare shaft tuning is to do it indoors, and to have CONSISTANT & PROPER shooting form. The benefits of bare shaft tuning are : to adjust your nocking point and to see if your arrows are spined properly to your set up. Without getting too long in the explaination...I will offer this to those who are interested. I can send you a copy of the processes and purposes of Bare-Shaft Tuning published by Easton Aluminum.

Secondly, archer's paradox has to do with how the arrow reacts via the release method chosen...fingers or mechanical...fletching has no effect on paradox but it would with oscillation. Also, if you have or any archer has ever used an Easton arrow chart to choose your arrow shaft...you have chosen a shaft not including it being fletched. Adding fletching will have a minimal effect on the overall spine of the arrow and Easton assumes that in their charts. Ever wonder why there are 3 or 4 different types of aluminum arrows that could be used according to their charts...that is why they recommend that you bare-shaft tune...to find out which one is the proper spine for your setup. It makes paper tuning that much easier and allows your arrow to fly more efficiently

WhackABuck

One reason why it could hit a different spot is because the broadhead makes the arrow longer than if it was tipped with a field point. Which causes the arrow to have a different Front of Center (FOC) measurement, which would cause for the arrow to be balanced at a different point, which would cause the arrow to impact differently at a very distant target.

CAJUNBOWHNTR

I think bare shafting works better for finger shooters and traditional archers.I think it's very much accepted in the FITA crowd.I think those guys know a thing or two about accuracy at long ranges.IMHO it works best for fine tuning arrow spine.Something more critical for finger shootes because of the increased paradox induced by a finger release.I do believe that from there group tuning with BH's and fp's is the "final tune".When group tuning and making minute changes to the arrow rest,you are effecting the attidue of the arrow at launch,not so much the spine of the arrow.


CB

WhackABuck

I totally agree that FITA shooters know a thing or two about long range accuracy...I was trying to explain how an arrow tipped with a broadhead could impact differently than one with a field tip so that Joe PA could better understand how an equal weight field point could hit at a different spot as he had stated than a broadhead of the same weight (which would be better seen at long ranges).

Actually bare shafting is FAR MORE DIFFICULT with traditional and finger shooters because the release is not as consistant as that of a mechanical release...and far more factors can be involved.

- pressure from the berger-button comes into play for compound finger shooters when the arrow tries to recover from paradox

- and for the traditionalists...not drawing to the exact same point each and every time and the inconsistancies of a finger release, varrying angles of bow cant, and how the arrow nocks are installed on wood arrows can also affect the spine of each arrow (how much with or against the grain the nock is installed).

The mechanical release has just as much paradox no more, no less, but in a different direction (flexing vertically instead of to the side as in a finger release) allowing for no need of a corrective devise on the riser.

Group tuning with field points is almost final...after a proper paper tune which is where you should make adjustments to your rest (not when grouping your broadheads). If everything is going well with the field tips...then it is time for the broadheads. If they are not impacting at the same point as the field tips then you need to tune your broadheads (and I don't mean aligning the blades with the fletching) so they are flying true.

If you have bare shaft tested your arrows in addition to paper tuning, the other problems of broadhead flight (rest adjustments, nocking point, etc...) have been virtually eliminated and the proper shaft has been selected. Now, the fletching is only nessessary for precautionary measures to keep the flight true in such cases as wind and inconsistancies in one's shooting form.

Orions_Bow

I have found paper tuning is best for me & my setups. I honestly see no merit to it & think it is a long afternoon that could be better used on something else!