ewolf

I agree with A.P. you have to make up for the fletching weight. Its an easy step that is often over looked. changes weight, FOC, and SPINE. Grant that it does mean very little, but it still means something.

Mantis Mayer

I shot my best score in a 3-D shoot last month and it would’ve turned out a whole lot different had it not been for bare shaft tuning. It was raining so hard; keeping my feathers dry was impossible! They were all matted down completely and I thought I was in for it. Not so, they still flew beautiful. Of course they did, cuz I had just bare shaft tuned them duh![8D]

I remember telling the guys had it not been for that I would’ve been loosing arrows they were that bad before tuning.


My little spin on paper tuning for a bullet hole:

Most people say you don’t need a perfect bullet hole. What about shooting threw small windows at deer? Do you want your high right tear waking a branch. Just a thought I was pondering.

JeffB

Good Discussion..keep it up...

and Thanx for the edit Coug...

Straightarrow

If I was going to do only one, paper or bare shaft, it would be bare shaft tuning. However, I don't bare shaft tune to micro adjust my rest. I usually only do it when testing for spine. Lately, I've been shooting over spined arrows, so I haven't needed to bare shaft tune. I group tune at a couple distances to set my nock point and rest.

PABowhntr

Jeff,

I have done it on occasion but only when I could not get a good tune out of the bow with other tuning methods. I do not believe that is necessary to do it in order to get good, consistant arrow flight but it does come in handy at times to rule out certain potential issues.

JOE PA

I usually tune this way, at least to start. With some bows, it has seemed to work very well, and has produced good-shooting arrows that needed no additional tuning to shoot broadheads well. I have also had bows that bare-shaft tuned well enough at 15-20, but could not get to group as well as others I have had, even though they seemed to be well tuned. I suppose I should just take one of my better shooting bows down to Len, and let him set it up correctly. I have no doubt that it would be worth it, but it is hard to find the time to go.

Tepidus

I agree with Rack-attack 100%...

BobCo19-65

So would a bareshaft with a 145 grain field tip impact the same as a 100 grain? Everthing else held constant. What changed besides FOC? Same would go for taking wieght off the back of the arrow IMO.

Antler Eater

Does it have merit, I would have to say yes. Is it an absolute necessity, no.

The same could be said of paper tuning.

I think there comes a point where a guy starts splitting hairs. Certainly we all want to achieve optimum performance and we all have our "pet" way of doing that. Is one way better than the other? I guess it depends on your experience or what you believe.

No matter how well tuned your equipment is, when you shoot in a stiff cross wind you are going to get a "kick" or fishtail even if it is slight.

Rack-attack

Don't know how you can keep it constant with a 45 grn increase at the tip??? But if it were I would say they would hit very close. We are talking 20 yds here. I can shoot a arrow 100 grns heavier and it will hit very close.


- Spine and weight.

weight on or off the back effects spine MUCH less than weight at the front. I have shot bare shafts both ways - no diff for me. Foc means nothing at 20 yds IMO.