muzzyman88

I was at the range today and noticed that my fletching was hitting my rest. Wierd thing is, if you look down the shaft, its clear, the fletching looks like it should clear it.
Its hitting the little post that stops the rest from springing up. How is in the world could it be hitting if it is clear from the get go?

Should I bend the prongs up and readjust the rest?
Its a two prong rest.

Thanks guys.

ArcticBowMan

Which model are you shooting? I have no clearance problems with my Pro Lite.


This is the conquest one rest. Is it hitting the right side of the rest, or hitting the bottom of the rest?

moonge

remember the arrow will spin a little before it clears the rest. you may end up turning the nocks so they look like they are hitting but by the time they get to the rest they are clear.

muzzyman88

I am shooting the bodoodle bullet rest if this helps.

Moonge, I was told that the arrow doesnt actually spin tills its well past the bow.

ArcticBowMan

Okay, here is a picture of the bullet, where exactly was it hitting? By the spring, or on the bottom?

Are your arrows helical, slightly offset or straight fletch?

I use about a 4 degree offset and line my nocks up with the bottom part of the cock vein. Do any of your fletchings show signs of scraping? Have you shot through paper to find out if your rest needs to be moved?

Edited by - ArcticBowMan on 02/23/2002 21:02:46

muzzyman88

Ok, buddy, here it is. It is scraping on the little screw post that stops the whole rest from going up, where the cork is. That silver post. My vane does show signs of contact.

I am shooting a 5" vane with a slight, 2 degree offset. Mine nocks too are in line with the cock vane.
I havent had a chance to shoot through paper yet.
One thing I do know though. I did have my nock set about 1/4 above center. Would this have any effect?
Also, would the spring being set too light have any to do with it? I set it just light enough to support the shaft when at full draw.
Thanks for your help buddy.
Chris

ArcticBowMan

I changed out the prongs to my prolite about 3 months ago and had to bend them into shape. If you notice that the gap between the prongs could be a little wider, you might want to try that. I've shot 4" vanes all along, which would have a lot less chance of making contact in the first place.

If your nock is relatively easy to move, you might want to make it level with the rest. That's how mine is set up and I get perfect holes with it. I leave a fairly wide gap that still supports the entire arrow, yet leaving enough room for the two top veins. You could also try smaller veins, going with the 4". It doesn't look like you have much of a right to left adjustment with that rest, but it looks like if you raise the prongs up higher, rather than bending them out, you will get more clearance from the metal post. Did the rest come with another set of prongs? Mine did and they were quite a bit stiffer. I put those on and started grouping better right away. I think you can call Bodoodle and get a set of them if you don't have 'em.

If you're going to start playing with spring tension, mark where you started out by measuring from the base of the spring to the corner of the metal adjuster plate, or mark it somehow. I'm really not sure if spring tension will play a large factor in contact right out of the rest.

Hopefully this helped some. Maybe some of the real techies here can give you some good advice. Good luck!

muzzyman88

Bodoodle claims that the heavier blades are for heavy hunting arrows. My total arrow weight is 388gr. Would the heavier ones be too heavy for this?

I think I'm going to experiment today with them and paper tune.

Thanks for all your help.

ArcticBowMan

Don't know about the heavier prongs. I just switched to carbons so I might need to call Bodoodle and get a lighter set of prongs now! lol

Good luck!