Hot melt on Goldtips
#2
RE: Hot melt on Goldtips
Don't do it. Bad move. Carbons cannot take heat.
Some folks will just put the hot melt on the insert after heating the insert up, but the problem is the Hot melt is STILL hot when you put it into the shaft... thus the carbon gets hot and you compromise the integrity of the fibers at the tip (and won't be able to see it).
I suggest slow cure (12 to 24 hour) epoxy or Bohning's Power Bond (what I use these days). Super glues will work but you won't have enough time to make sure your insert is straight before it sets.
Some folks will just put the hot melt on the insert after heating the insert up, but the problem is the Hot melt is STILL hot when you put it into the shaft... thus the carbon gets hot and you compromise the integrity of the fibers at the tip (and won't be able to see it).
I suggest slow cure (12 to 24 hour) epoxy or Bohning's Power Bond (what I use these days). Super glues will work but you won't have enough time to make sure your insert is straight before it sets.
#3
RE: Hot melt on Goldtips
What about the friction going into my block target? My shafts were warm after that. My pro shop would heat the arrows and pull the inserts out of my PSE carbon force arrows. That may be why they broke easily.
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: monroe ohio USA
Posts: 293
RE: Hot melt on Goldtips
as long as you clean the inside of the shaft with a small diameter wire brush and q-tip the inside with some alcohol or acetone and dont overheat the insert i have seen it work fine with no problems.
#5
RE: Hot melt on Goldtips
ORIGINAL: zak123
What about the friction going into my block target? My shafts were warm after that. My pro shop would heat the arrows and pull the inserts out of my PSE carbon force arrows. That may be why they broke easily.
What about the friction going into my block target? My shafts were warm after that. My pro shop would heat the arrows and pull the inserts out of my PSE carbon force arrows. That may be why they broke easily.
I used epoxy as well on Aluminum arrows, because again it allows for proper set-up of inserts and broadheads. With hot melt you have to heat everything up..seat the insert...then re-heat, twist the insert (and hope for the best)..if that doesn't work, heat it up again..
I've taken a big liking to the Power Bond from Bohning. It works and bonds like epoxy, but can be heat reversed much easier than epoxy can if needed..on unibushings I use a long (2 to 3") wood screw and screw it into the bushing/busted nock and then heat the head of the screw and give it a tug with pliers..bushing comes right out and the shaft takes very minimal heat. You can do the same thing on an insert with a field point screwed into the insert just a couple threads.
#8
RE: Hot melt on Goldtips
ORIGINAL: zak123
I pm'ed him and it cures in 6-8 hours but let them sit overnight.
I pm'ed him and it cures in 6-8 hours but let them sit overnight.
Plenty of time to spin your broadheads/inserts, then let them sit overnight Cajun..they fully cure in 24 hours. But I've shot them at 12 hours w/ no issues.
#10
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 760
RE: Hot melt on Goldtips
I just started using the power bond glue and have to say it is the best that I have used so far. I have seen arrows whre the points were glued in with it and shot into treated landscaping timbers and the inserts never came out of the arrow when pulled out of the timbers.