Flecthing Contact w/ My New Shakey Hunter
#12
RE: Flecthing Contact w/ My New Shakey Hunter
Here's some great advice from Jerrod at Trophy Taker (taken from an AT thread)
In my experience, hybrid or cam.5's tend to behave more like a single cam when tuning than a dual cam. Therefore, most of the single cam/fall-away "rules" apply.
In the vast majority of cases, the rest is actually falling too quickly if you are getting fletch contact on the rest. In short, bows need differing amounts of "launch time" to get an arrow started correctly. Some bows need very little time and others need a lot. Unfortunately, this varies even among bows of the same name, poundage, draw length, etc. Perhaps the best way to reason this out is because a bow is a dynamic piece of equipment with flexible limbs, fast moving parts and perhaps as important as all of that, strings that can vary considerably in overall length, elasticity and even in terms of installation (how many twists, ratio of twists in buss cable, to string, to control cable etc.)
Therefore, rather than make generalizations here, I will say that I prefer to let the bow tell me what it wants.
It is tempting to think that contact automatically means the rest is not getting out of the way soon enough. However, slow motion video will usually show that as the rest is falling, the nock end of the arrow is being thrust downward and the entire arrow is actually "chasing" the launcher down and striking it near the shelf (or in some cases on the shelf) of the bow.
To remedy most of the time, we shorten the attachment cord, making the rest stay up longer and forcing the arrow to be launched through the center of the rest mounting hole. We can also raise the nock point on the string to compensate for the downward thrust. Keep in mind that many bows (even those that claim to not have any issues) can be subject to nock travel (both left and right and up or down). It doesn't make them "bad bows" it's just something that once we know what may be going on, we can address it while tuning.
With that being said, in very rare cases, spring tension may need to be increased (usually only in short draw length/low brace height bows). Each Trophy Taker rest does have pre-drilled holes inside the launcher housing to address this if needed. However, launcher removal and installation is not a super easy process and should not be started without specific instruction from Trophy Taker on how to go about it. I can e-mail instructions if needed.
Hope this helps and that you didn't fall asleep reading it. Let me know if I can be of further assistance. I can always be reached at: 406-826-0600 or [email protected].
Good Luck!
T Taker Tech
In the vast majority of cases, the rest is actually falling too quickly if you are getting fletch contact on the rest. In short, bows need differing amounts of "launch time" to get an arrow started correctly. Some bows need very little time and others need a lot. Unfortunately, this varies even among bows of the same name, poundage, draw length, etc. Perhaps the best way to reason this out is because a bow is a dynamic piece of equipment with flexible limbs, fast moving parts and perhaps as important as all of that, strings that can vary considerably in overall length, elasticity and even in terms of installation (how many twists, ratio of twists in buss cable, to string, to control cable etc.)
Therefore, rather than make generalizations here, I will say that I prefer to let the bow tell me what it wants.
It is tempting to think that contact automatically means the rest is not getting out of the way soon enough. However, slow motion video will usually show that as the rest is falling, the nock end of the arrow is being thrust downward and the entire arrow is actually "chasing" the launcher down and striking it near the shelf (or in some cases on the shelf) of the bow.
To remedy most of the time, we shorten the attachment cord, making the rest stay up longer and forcing the arrow to be launched through the center of the rest mounting hole. We can also raise the nock point on the string to compensate for the downward thrust. Keep in mind that many bows (even those that claim to not have any issues) can be subject to nock travel (both left and right and up or down). It doesn't make them "bad bows" it's just something that once we know what may be going on, we can address it while tuning.
With that being said, in very rare cases, spring tension may need to be increased (usually only in short draw length/low brace height bows). Each Trophy Taker rest does have pre-drilled holes inside the launcher housing to address this if needed. However, launcher removal and installation is not a super easy process and should not be started without specific instruction from Trophy Taker on how to go about it. I can e-mail instructions if needed.
Hope this helps and that you didn't fall asleep reading it. Let me know if I can be of further assistance. I can always be reached at: 406-826-0600 or [email protected].
Good Luck!
T Taker Tech
#13
Fork Horn
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location:
Posts: 219
RE: Flecthing Contact w/ My New Shakey Hunter
The problems of the Fletching clearance was one of multiple problems I had along with the arrow being driven down into the launch arm. I found this due to the fact that my fleece was being pulled from the launch arm, I was also getting nock low tears when paper tuning.
after talking with the proshop the pro informed me that patriots with drop away's need a nock high setup, he believed due to the powerstroke of the bow. So he had me raise the rest That diidn't help then he had me raise my nock point. this had me shooting bullet holes with all the problems corrected.
after talking with the proshop the pro informed me that patriots with drop away's need a nock high setup, he believed due to the powerstroke of the bow. So he had me raise the rest That diidn't help then he had me raise my nock point. this had me shooting bullet holes with all the problems corrected.
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: GA
Posts: 67
RE: Flecthing Contact w/ My New Shakey Hunter
Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and suggestions. I also received a reply from my email to Trophy Taker. I've been impressed by their customer service. I'm a little uncomfortable moving the rest and nocking point around by myself, so I took it to a local archery shop. I'm hoping they do a good job. If they do, I'll be back in business. If not, I'll be moving the rest up along with my nocking point and hoping I don't screw something up...
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: GA
Posts: 67
RE: Flecthing Contact w/ My New Shakey Hunter
Just an update...
The pro shop I used re-installed the rest and said they had it shooting bullet holes. I took it home and still was getting fletching contact. Took it back with my arrows and proved it to him. We fiddled with the place the cord was served into the cable and got clearance. We fiddled with the nocking point and rest height until we got semi-decent holes (but still nock high). I took it home and got it paper tuned so that it is indeed shooting bullet holes. It is now shooting great. And I love the rest. And I'll be driving over an hour to use a new pro shop where I know they do a good job...
Thanks again to everyone who helped. Another kudos to TT for their customer service.
The pro shop I used re-installed the rest and said they had it shooting bullet holes. I took it home and still was getting fletching contact. Took it back with my arrows and proved it to him. We fiddled with the place the cord was served into the cable and got clearance. We fiddled with the nocking point and rest height until we got semi-decent holes (but still nock high). I took it home and got it paper tuned so that it is indeed shooting bullet holes. It is now shooting great. And I love the rest. And I'll be driving over an hour to use a new pro shop where I know they do a good job...
Thanks again to everyone who helped. Another kudos to TT for their customer service.