broadheads and arrow trouble
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Maine
Posts: 287
broadheads and arrow trouble
I was using field points to site in my bow and practice and it is dead on. I tried test shooting a few mechanical jackhammer sst and my arrows were off 6 left and 8 high. I alined the blades and fletching and had the same result. When I put the field points back on I was back in the bull. Is this problem with the arrow shaft size, the broad head or what?
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mertztown, PA
Posts: 970
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
First, let's start simple. The broadhead and field tips are the same weight, correct? A heavier/lighter head doesn't just affect flight vertically, but horizontally as well due to different effective spines. I ask, because a difference of 25G in the head gives me similar results as yours.
Are the broadheads grouping consistently? If so, it points to a tuning problem. I'd say try paper tuning with field tips since it works great for me, but there are different opinions on the board regarding the value of a paper tune.
Also, what type of fletching are you using and how much helical do you have?
Fritz
Are the broadheads grouping consistently? If so, it points to a tuning problem. I'd say try paper tuning with field tips since it works great for me, but there are different opinions on the board regarding the value of a paper tune.
Also, what type of fletching are you using and how much helical do you have?
Fritz
#3
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
but there are different opinions on the board regarding the value of a paper tune
Only other thing I can add is to make sure you are shooting with the exact same form as the field tips. There is sometimes a mental factor involved when shooting a different setup.
#4
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
Probably the most difficult problem to rectify is proper nock/shaft/insert/point alignment. A simple spin of the arrow on a spin tester can help you determine whether or not everything is relatively in line. If not then you will need to check each component...one arrow at a time to see where the problem lies.
#5
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Maine
Posts: 287
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
Well heres what I know. The tips are the same grain. The arrows are brand new xx75 w/ 5" vanes. Last year my bow shot perfect but I wanted more poundage so I cranked it up from 56 to 62. I am afraid that it may have made me need stiffer arrows.
#6
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mertztown, PA
Posts: 970
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
It may not necessitate a stiffer arrow if you're still in the recommended spine range. Any tweaking of the poundage, tiller, or just about anything will affect arrow flight. Try a good paper tune and move your center shot or nock height accordingly.......or, you could try a slightly lighter tip (within 25 grains) and see if that puts you on spot.
My first procedure would be a paper tune though. I've had luck tuning two different spines using the same tip weight by changing nock position and centershot alone. Both setups put fixed blade broadheads and field tips on the same spot out to 60 yards (farthest I can shoot out back). I know it's not the most popular method, but it was the most quantitative way I found to adjust my bow.
BTW..........are the broadheads grouping as good as your field tips now? I assume they are and that the point of impact is just "6 right and 8 high".
My first procedure would be a paper tune though. I've had luck tuning two different spines using the same tip weight by changing nock position and centershot alone. Both setups put fixed blade broadheads and field tips on the same spot out to 60 yards (farthest I can shoot out back). I know it's not the most popular method, but it was the most quantitative way I found to adjust my bow.
BTW..........are the broadheads grouping as good as your field tips now? I assume they are and that the point of impact is just "6 right and 8 high".
#7
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Maine
Posts: 287
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
Thanks for the help. Here is my delima though. I tried paper tuning with field points at 10 feet and I kept having a 1 inch tear to the left (shooting left handed). My bow was never in paper tune with field points. I cannot seem to get it into perfect tune so I am doubtful that I can tune it with broad heads. Does a tear to the left indicate that the arrow will go left?
#8
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
I tried paper tuning with field points at 10 feet and I kept having a 1 inch tear to the left (shooting left handed).
#9
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
tear to the left (shooting left handed
#10
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mertztown, PA
Posts: 970
RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
Start out close to the target....as in 4 feet or less. What may be happening is that the oscillation of the arrow has completed one half of a cycle and your adjustments play into making it more extreme. If this still results in a left tear, (assuming you're right handed) then it could be that your draw length is too long resulting in a consistent pull. It could also be fletching contact.
Once you've achieved a bullet from less than 4 feet, step back to 6 feet and repeat, but make finer adjustments. Finally, tune from 10 feet, BUT make sure your adjustments are very, very minor. If you make it to this point, it becomes very easy for your decisions to be corrupted by other variables. In scientific terms, you lose your experiment's control.
Also, shoot 3 or 4 arrows before making an adjustment. It's very easy start going the wrong direction with your adjustments based on a torqued shot. You'll know in your head when you've had a good release - go with your instincts and count only those shots towards your adjustment decision.
The process can be touchy, and it does require patience, but the ability to do it in my basement makes the environment consistent and comfortable - a must when you start making hairline adjustments. It'll pay off when you don't have to sight in for broadheads!
Fritz
Once you've achieved a bullet from less than 4 feet, step back to 6 feet and repeat, but make finer adjustments. Finally, tune from 10 feet, BUT make sure your adjustments are very, very minor. If you make it to this point, it becomes very easy for your decisions to be corrupted by other variables. In scientific terms, you lose your experiment's control.
Also, shoot 3 or 4 arrows before making an adjustment. It's very easy start going the wrong direction with your adjustments based on a torqued shot. You'll know in your head when you've had a good release - go with your instincts and count only those shots towards your adjustment decision.
The process can be touchy, and it does require patience, but the ability to do it in my basement makes the environment consistent and comfortable - a must when you start making hairline adjustments. It'll pay off when you don't have to sight in for broadheads!
Fritz