Proper single cam rotation
#3
RE: Proper single cam rotation
In many cases doing what bearmaster suggested should work...but in some cases it won't.
If you have a new bow and you haven't broken it in yet then I suggest drawing some timing marks on the cam so that if the string does creep and the cam does move then you will know it.
Some manufacturers like Mathews, Darton, Hoyt and others now include timing marks on the cam to help you in this regard.
If you already have the cam broken in and you don't know if the timing is correct then (assuming it is a perimeter weighted style single cam) the perimeter weighted style lobe of the cam should have the string exiting the string track parallel with the "back" of the perimeter weighted lobe.
***This is where having a picture would be handy but I am at work at the moment and do not have access to my camera or a single cam bow.
I hope this helps some.
If you have a new bow and you haven't broken it in yet then I suggest drawing some timing marks on the cam so that if the string does creep and the cam does move then you will know it.
Some manufacturers like Mathews, Darton, Hoyt and others now include timing marks on the cam to help you in this regard.
If you already have the cam broken in and you don't know if the timing is correct then (assuming it is a perimeter weighted style single cam) the perimeter weighted style lobe of the cam should have the string exiting the string track parallel with the "back" of the perimeter weighted lobe.
***This is where having a picture would be handy but I am at work at the moment and do not have access to my camera or a single cam bow.
I hope this helps some.
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: .. NH USA
Posts: 970
RE: Proper single cam rotation
All solos are not created equal, nor is there one overall rotation pic that you can look at to set them all by. I've set up many over the years, and altho some manufacturers give you so-called "timing marks" that run parallel to the string, it is not a cure-all, (in fact it is basically a pacifier to try and squash questions about the rotation) and each setup must be tuned to not only individual setups due to varying arrow selections and nock-point height, but to different configurations of cam radius' and idler sizes, as well. Timing marks may be a good place to "start", but you have to didle with each configuration to find the "sweet-spot" for each. Good shooting, Pinwheel 12