Bees

Changing the draw length is what Pmantel forgot to mention. Do what Range ball said and then your Power stroke changed. Seems like a lot to go through for a few feet per second though...

Bigpapascout

you have not changed the brace heighth, you have only made the draw longer which will effectively make the bow aproximately 11 FPS faster give or take but the effective brace heighth or the reflex of the riser has remained the same
agin I say the only way to change the effective BH is to shorten the limbs.

reylamb

Or, on a single cam, you could long string it, which will increase the draw length, increase the a-a, increase the draw weight, and decrease the brace height.

PMantle

Nope. If I just made the draw longer, how would I be able to shoot it? Under this theory, which is wrong BTW, all I would need do is buy a longer draw bow, or use a longer draw module on such a bow. Doing that would make the draw too long for me. By moving the grip back--toward the string--I am now drawing too short by the amount the grip was moved back. I now must change draw by that same amount to get back to the same anchor. In the process, I have also increased stroke.

Think of it this way. What part of your body is affected by either reflex or deflex of the riser? Answer-The bow hand. Why? The grip. Take a look at the bow company with the grip out in front of the riser(I can't recall it right now). Are you also saying they did not change the brace of the bow? If so, we need to symply agree to disagree. But, you are wrong.

Bigpapascout

pmmantle I only build bows for a living
I am glad you are able to answer your own question

Rey you are partially right Long stringing the bow will indeed shorten the brace heighth but it will make the DW less will make the a to a longer thus not making the bow any faster so you have really made a futile attempt to reduce the brace heighth to gain speed but have really just complicated things and will also make it a pain in the rear to get the cams in time (not too bad for a solo)

but the bow will also shoot like crap the best effective way is to shorten the limbs, string and harness.

but better yet just go buy the bow that has the specs you are wntimng from a bow

PMantle

Bigppapa. I did not answer my question. I never asked about the concept, only if people had done it, and if a spacer could be used instead of making an entirey new grip. I was worried about the potential problems of stress with a spacer as opposed to the grip. Fortunately, there are some bows with specs that would make this not something I want to do, but as I said in my first post, there are others I would like that have huge braces in the context of my tiny draw(26.5 to 27).

reylamb

BPS, correct me if I am wrong, but as the a-a gets longer the weight goes up. When you tighten a limb bolt to increase poundage on a bow the limb tips get further away correct? Likewise, as you loosen the bolts to decrease the poundage the limb tips (and a-a) get closer. Long stringing a bow will cause the a-a to go up, and theoretically will cause the weight to go up.

Last week I was helping out at a local shop and we long stringed a guys bow to get his drawlength longer. This also took his draw weight up some in the process.


I agree that the best way to get the desired specs is to buy it that way from the get go, but sometimes that is not economically feasible.

reylamb

I do know 2 guys that put spaces behind their grips in order to change the effective draw length on the bow. ALthough the powr stroke and actual draw length did not change, by moving the grop back it effectively changes how far they actually drew the bow. It did not increase the speed in any way, but it did get noticeably louder.

For a point of reference, here is the table for shortening/lengthening cables and strings:

Sting and Cable shortening Table

On a 2-cam bow:
Shorten string, leave cables the same = shorter draw, lower weight, little change in BH
Lengthen cables, leave string the same = shorter draw, lower weight, slightly lower BH
Shorten cables, leave string the same = longer draw, higher weight, slightly higher BH
Lengthen string, leave cables the same = longer draw, higher weight, little change in BH
Shorten string and cables by the same amount = same draw length, higher BH and higher weight
Lengthen string and cables by the same amount = same draw length, lower BH and lower weight.

On a 1-cam bow
All the same, except for last 2 - to keep same draw length, you need to shorten/lengthen the string by 2X as much as you do on the cable (because the string goes between the ends of the bow twice, not once).

The actual amount of change varies depending on the bow and the amount of cable/string change.

A slight addition -- if you shorten both strings and cables(cams now clocked same as before, only you have a higher brace), you get the same power-stroke, but the actual draw wlngth will be longer by nearly the amount you increased the brace.

Bigpapascout

rey
My apoligys
If you are only adding length to the string it will bring up the poundage as you mentioned but I was under the assumption you were adding a longer power harness as well to keep everything in sync
My Bad[X(][]

reylamb

No problem. Sync????? What is sync????? You mean we need to keep everything in sync????? Now, what fun would that be, it would be easy to tune a bow that way.