CBM SC

What are the major disadvantages of shooting a really short ATA bow ......if your tall. I'm about 6'03" and shoot a 30 inch draw. I have read posts regarding the string angle difference.......but still unsure as to how that affects shooting. So far ,my limited shooting of 31-32" ATA bows, has been favorable. I seem to shoot well with them.....but I have never shot them for more than a few minutes at a time. A 35 3/4" ATA is the shortest I have bought so far......but considering the new Outback at 31" !!!!

Any advise ???

mrfritz44

PM PABowhuntr with this one. He's the short bow guru and is about 7'5".

Arthur P

I'm 6'6" with a 33.5" draw. I'll tell you what I don't like about shorty bows... shorty to me being anything less than 40" ATA. The string angle takes the peep a LONG way from your eye. You have to shoot the largest diameter peep you can find and the distance from your eye still makes it look like a small target peep. If you've got young eyes, that'd be okay for 3D. Not worth a flip for hunting, IMO. Also, there is no way to pick up a third anchor reference, like sticking the tip of your nose on the string.

I've shot well - very well, actually - on targets with bows I've had that were as short as 36" that left me without that third anchor reference though. If you've got a good, solid, repeatable anchor, consistent head position, and have the peep set correctly, that third reference is just a redundant double check.

Now, since I don't use sights any more (don't need 'em in the first place and my bad eyes can't even see them in the second place) I'll be right in line for a short bow when I get to the point where I can't shoot fingers any more. I don't think there's an instinctive/release class in 3D, but it'd be the cat's meow for hunting.

JOE PA

I personally don't shoot my best with them for the reasons Arthur talked about. Also, it is hard for me to retain back tension and hit my secondary reference points on the draw. I do have a 34" bow that I put together, and shoot regularly. Instead using the kisser button in a conventional position, I set it to touch my nose for a little less draw length. With a shorter bow, it seems like I am either pulling too far back to have the string touch my nose, or leaning forward with my head to touch the string that way. I have about quit using a peep sight, so that is not a problem with the style I have described. I am just more comfortable at full draw with a longer bow.

I have seen Frank (PABowntr) shoot a few times, and he appears perfectly natural shooting the short bows. He would be a good guy to ask how he does it.

wolf6151

CBM, Thanks for posting this question. I signed on this morning for the purpose of posting this same question. I'm 6'2" and my draw length is 30 inches as well. I'm doing my research now for a new bow this year and also want something short for hunting. My new bow will mainly be used for spot and stalk hog hunts and hunting from a ground blind or tree stand for deer, so I want something that's light weight and maneuverable in thick ground cover. I don't shoot 3D, but will also shoot targets in the backyard. I was also looking at the Outback the other day and that bow felt really good in my hands. I never thought that I'd consider a Mathews but I am now. I also looked at several Bowtechs, they felt bulky, and the Hoyt Xtec, also felt bulky. I know the weight of the Outback is probably higher than the others but it sure balanced nice and seemed very slim and comfortable in my hands. I've read in recent years that tall archers are supposed to shoot longer ATA bows, but read somewhere of an explanation against that idea. They said that bows years ago were long because of long limbs and riser and when bows started to get shorter the riser was made shorter and the limbs were still long and it was hard not to torque a bow with a short riser. Today bows are made shorter from a longer riser, which gives the effect of a longer more stable bow, and shorter more parallel limbs. Also with the size of cams today, they seem to be getting bigger, I don't think the string angle is as critical any more.

PABowhntr

I wish I had some magical formula or technique to give you guys that would instantly allow you to shoot a short axle to axle length bow with the same accuracy as a longer one. But I don't.

This subject has been discussed quite a bit and the general consensus has always been that if you have a longer draw length then you should be shooting a longer axle to axle length bow. Issues like string angle, nock pinch, a short sight window, how easy it is to cant, etc.. have all been strong points that should reduce the overall accuracy of short axle to axle length bows. All of those factors can and do affect the accuracy of short bows however, all of them can be overcome or compensated for to some extent.

For example, the issue of how easy it is to cant a short axle to axle length bow is very true. However, that has changed somewhat with the longer riser/shorter limb bows. These bows distribute weight more evenly over their entire length thus making it slightly more difficult to cant. These style of bows also now offer larger sight windows to accomodate for those that anchor lower on the face/jaw. Lastly, a simple bubble level on the bow sight can help you monitor whether or not you are canting the bow and by how much.

As for the string angle issue, there is no real remedy when it comes to anchor points. You can't anchor the same way with a short bow that you can with a long one. In this instance I believe it requires some adaption and experimentation on the part of the archer. You have to be somewhat willing to try a new anchor position or use new reference points. Not to knock on you guys (Arthur, Jeff) as I am sure that in some cases a short bow setup will just not work for some folks.

Nock pinch on the other hand can be easily remedied. I have for several years now shot the short bows right off the bowstring with nothing but an eliminator button and brass nockset. No problem putting together some respectable groups. However, I switched to a loop last year and my accuracy improved noticeably. I experimented with a few different loop styles/positions before finding which worked best with my bow and my setup. Again, you have to be willing to try new things even if they feel somewhat uncomfortable and/or unusual at first. In this regard I want to relate my most recent experience with the Mighty Mite VFT...my latest "short-short" bow.

I had a difficult time shooting my low loop setup on this particular bow. When at full draw the nocks were literally hooked onto the string by a thread. To me that was just too close to a dryfire situation. So, I tried a conventional loop setup and had much better nock-string contact. However, my accuracy just was not up to what I have come to expect. So, after some suggestions from some thoughtful friends I tried putting on a standard loop but then left about an 1/8th inch gap between the bottom of the arrow nock and a tied-in nockset. The tied-in nockset was placed directly above the bottom knot of the string loop. This loop setup roughly equally distributes force behind the arrow nock just like a conventional loop but the tied-in nockset and the 1/8th inch gap pretty much eliminate the nock pinch issue. Now, I have no problem slapping arrows again.

One last thought on short bows...a very wise man once said something like this:

Long bows + Heavy weight = Good
Long bows + Light weight = Ok
Short bows + Heavy weight = Ok
Short bows + Light weight = Bad

I believe that does apply to most shooters including myself. The one short bow that I had the most difficulty shooting accurately was the Parker UL31. The short axle to axle length coupled with its ultralightweight frame made it very difficult for me to shoot accurately.

Hope this helps you folks in some way.

JeffB

Actually that wise-man said "short bows + heavy weight = OK"

PABowhntr

You know what...you were right. My apologies. I edited my post to reflect that.

How the heck would you know though???

Arthur P

That's true. Even though I use a high anchor with whatever length bow I shoot, my draw length is such that I can't get a bow that draws a couple inches longer than my true draw length so I can put the string to my nose. Somebody that's a 27" draw and pulling 29" doesn't have the string angle and, by pulling the arrow's nock halfway back on his cheek, doesn't have any trouble sticking his nose on the string.

About canting... I cant the snot out of my compounds when shooting instinctive. Just like I'm shooting a recurve or longbow. Cant only screws you up when you're addicted to sights.

PABowhntr

Might as well face it your addicted to sights.....

(With a group of heavily make-uped women playing guitars singing chorus in the background)