c903

I was in a lumberyard recently and noticed that there was roof-insulating fiberboard available. It was not the "Celotex" brand, but fiberboard just the same. For some reason, I had not been aware that the fiberboard was commonly being stocked in lumberyards and home repair businesses as it was in the past.

I immediately contacted my "bud" and informed him, and advised that we were going to construct some fiberboard targets as we used to use years ago before the influx of the various material-types of the manufactured targets that are on the market these days.

I have owned and used many types of the modernistic targets. Other then a bag target filled with remnants of "Kevlar" (bullet proofing material), none have been worth the price, and none have performed and been as durable as I desire and as good as the old fiberboard targets and backstops were. Even the "Kevlar" filled bag has its limitations; you cannot shoot broadheads into it. A good (modern) broadhead target that performs well and will last more than a few hundred shots is hard to find. I have never found one.

The old (homemade) fiberboard targets were great and you could shoot the hell out of them for a long time. You could control penetration depth, easily restore shot-out sections, and easily locate and remove fieldpoints and broadheads that were in the target when pulled loose from the shaft. 24" and 36" four-sided target were the norm on outdoor ranges. Large fiberboard walls (backstop) were commonly used in many indoor ranges …or excelsior fiber bales.

Depending on size, you cannot easily throw a fiberboard target in your truck or hang it from a tree limb. However, it can be transported if you desire to.

I am assuming the quality and strength of the fiberboard is as good as it was …back then. I shall see.

BOWFANATIC works in the fiberboard industry and knows what type of fiberboard is best. Use his information to obtain the correct fiberboard.


For those that want to construct a target that will perform well for fieldpoints and broadheads, is long-lasting, and has features as mentioned (penetration control, replaceable sections, can remove lost head, etc,) I am posting the following plans that my friend and I will be using to construct ours. The same design that was used in yesteryear.



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PLANS

Material: (Use ½" x 4' x 8' Fiberboard Roof Insulation)

(6) ½" x 4' x 8' fiberboards (provides 48 sections to comprise a 24" x 24" target)
(1) ¼" x 24" x 48" section of plywood
(2) 2"x 4" x 6' boards
(4) 5/16" x 36" all-thread rods
(8) 5/16" nuts
(8) 5/16" flat washers

Tools:

Power saw
Metal cutting hacksaw
Drill
5/16" Drill bit
5/16" Wrench

Assemble:

1. Measure and cut across the width of each 4' x 8' board into (4) 24" x 48" sections.
2. Cut each 24" x 48" precut sections in half for (2) 24"x 24" sections per secton..
3. Cut section of 24" x 48" plywood in half for (2) 24" x 24" sections.
4. Cut each 2" x 4" board in half for (4) 2" x 4" x 36" boards.
5. Measure in 5 inches from each end of 2" x 4" and place mark at center of board.
6. Drill 5/16" hole in each marked 2" x 4".
7. On each end of each 36" section of all-thread rod, install a washer and then install nut and turn nut down for at least 4".
8. Stack sections of 24" x 24" fiberboard and plywood. One section of plywood will be on bottom of fiberboard stack, one section of plywood will be on top of fiberboard stack.
9. Lift each end of stack and insert end of stack into 2" x 4" frame that has the all-thread rods installed. Move frame back about 2" from edge of stack. (If 2x4 boards were drilled correctly, all-thread should be against or near side of stack).
10. Tighten nuts until stack is tightly compressed.
11. Cut off all-thread to desired length above nuts. When you remove nuts, doing so will clean the cut ends of rod.
12. If desired, cut off ends of 2"x 4" to desired length. However the longer boards on the ground help stabilize the target and the longer 2" x 4" boards on top provide a handhold to lift the target.

Utilizing:

A. You can have control of depth of arrow penetration by how tight you compress the stack. Also, the tighter the stack is compressed the less shredding will occur when removing broadheads. Tight compression also helps prevent the broadhead from penetrating too deep.
B.When center of target starts to become shot-out, use opposite side of stack. When both sides start to become shot-out, loosen frame and remove and insert stack back into frame with un-shot edges now showing.
C. When all four sides start to become shot-out, install just enough new 24" x 24" sections to renew the shot-out area.
D. If you loose a head in stack, loosen frame so that you can lift the sections to remove head.
E. Protect target from ground moisture and cover with plastic when not being used. Rain or snow will speed up deterioration of target.

Rangeball

I'd always heard that the knock on fiberboard targets was arrow removal was difficult at best and due to their rigidity they were harder on the arrow shaft at impact.

That last bit may be an even bigger concern with mediocre carbons just looking for a way to lose their spine being used so prevailantly...

Don't know, never shot into one, just going from memory of what I've read/heard...

PABowhntr

Interesting suggestion as I have not seen it used in any of the local shops for several years. Thanks for posting the plans. I am in the market for a new target as I just pitched my last bag last night. This will give me something to do during this lull between hunting and 3D.

Pinwheel 12

The fiberboard targets suck IMO. We tried them back in the early to mid 90's for our local clubs, and if you do not get just the correct amount of tension on them, you can seriously bend your arrows if shooting aluminum, and if shooting carbon you will get a boatload of residue that is a pain to get off. Plus they deteriorate quickly in nasty weather unless they are well covered. Most of the clubs in our area scrapped them and now use either Morrell Outdoor range targets, or build their own plywood boxes and use scrap rags from the local textile mills. These we've found work better than anything else we've tried----you build a simple plywood box of whatever size you want and about 24" deep,(we beef up the inside corners with 2x2) then cram it full of rags, old clothes (no zippers or metal buttons!) or whatever-- and I mean PACK it tight! Then lay a facing of 2" thick 2lb or 4lb ethafoam (look in the yellowpages under "foam manufacturers" it's about $30 for a 4x8 sheet) over that, and secure it with 1"X2" strips and drywall screws around the inside edge of the box to hold everything in place. If you ever need to change-up the ethafoam or add more rags, just unscrew the strips and do it. Takes about 5 minutes. These things last and last for many years and it's a two fingered arrow removal-- I've had one in the backyard now for over 5 years, and it is just now getting to the point where I need to rebuild the box. If I had used PT plywood, I could've easily gotten another 4 or 5 out of it. (and we get lots of snow each winter also) They are great. Total cost is minimal for what you get out of them.

Good luck! Pinwheel 12

Rangeball

Pinwheel, you shooting broadheads into that?

Pinwheel 12

Rangeball-

You can because it will surely stop them, but the heads may get caught up in the rags and become a pain to pull out. When it comes time to fly broadheads, I generally cut up one of my older McKensies or a foam block. Fiberboard doesn't do better on broadheads either, because you are cutting chunks out of it each time you shoot it. Pure foam is about the best for broadheads, but no matter what you shoot them at, you will destroy the material. Good shooting, Pinwheel 12.

Black Frog

Fiberboard and carbon arrows is a PAIN! We had that at our club for a couple of years and after each round you'd have to scrape and scrape and scrape to get the residual crap off your shafts.

Our indoor range just converted over to the Pacific Bow Butts. I'm very impressed so far. We'll see how they hold up in the coming years.

For home targets, the rag boxes are hard to beat for the price invested....

Pinwheel 12

Yep, I too hear nothing but good things about Pacific Bow Butts. I may have to try some myself this coming year.. Pinwheel 12

c903

Pinwheel:

I do not recall experiencing crumbling and extreme residue being left on the shaft (wood, glass, and aluminum). Was your club shooting into the surface of the board rather than the edges? Are you positive you are referring to cellulose fiber and not foam or styro board? I guess I'll have to see if the material and the density of the material is as good today as it once was.

As for hardness of the target, that is where the compression control comes into play. However, the impact cannot be as hard as when the shaft impacts with a hard-foam 3D deer. I never had problems withdrawing shafts from the cellulose fiberboard.

Regarding carbon; what can I say. Sounds like the carbon surface is not smooth and has drag.

Sure cannot see myself shooting a broadhead into a box or bag of rags.

Arthur P

Yep, the residue is terrible with Celotex, not so much with aluminum as with carbon. Wood arrows sealed with poly or gasket lacquer is the WORST. What I've found to work better than anything to keep the residue from sticking to arrows so bad is to wax the first 10" or so of the arrow with a good silicone based auto wax. Works on all kinds of arrows and generally lasts through a couple hours of practicing on the butts.

Our club went to the Morrell bags about 5 years ago and we've been happy as clams with them. But if we ever set up another 14 target field range, I'd like to find something better - and cheaper - than Celotex to put in the target frames.

Whatever happened to the days of cheap excelsior... [:'(]