mrfritz44

I've got the Grayling jig pictured here:



In anticipation of fletching my new carbons, I was practicing on some old aluminum shafts last night with the vanes that I have. I was having a little trouble maintaining full contact with the shaft using this jig's full left setting.
Have any of you used this jig? Is it in the way you place the vane/feather in the clamp or could it be that this jig just doesn't cut by making it more difficult than it is? What are some other jigs with micro adjustments and other built in reference points/graduations (this one has none) that make it easy to precisely return the jig to a particular helical and that you recommend?

Also, any fletching tips you may have are welcome.

Thanks,

Fritz

Arthur P

You have to match the jig's setting to the length of the feather and the diameter of the shaft. Adjust it to where the feather is sitting full length on the shaft, and that's all the helical you're going to get for that particular combination.

Straightarrow

Like Arthur said, these jigs have to be offset to fit a particular diameter shaft. Set the clamp in the jig and move the offset adjustment until no space appears between the fletching and the shaft. On helical fletching, I use a little extra advesive and leave it in the clamp longer. The helical attachment has a greater tendency to come loose, if you remove the clamp too soon.

Twoshot Jim

mrfritz: I have a blitzenburger fletcher, and a few weeks ago I fletched some arrows with the full left helical fleching. I had the same trouble with the full helical untill I got out my dremel electric tool and worked the center of the fletching clamp, blending the nock end to the tip. taking more material out of the center area. I worked at a slow pace and checked regularly as not to screw up the flecthing clamp. I matched the clamp (without fletching installed) to the shaft, watching that there was very minimal light between the shaft and the fletching clamp. This worked out very well and I can get more wrap of the fletching on the shaft than before I modified the fletching clamp. I was using a larger shaft (2314) than you, so I don't know if this will help you. With the fletching jig being flat and the helical not it's hard to get a full helical unless you nodify the fletching clamp. The feather fletching fits the shaft much better.

Shoot Straight
Twoshot Jim

mrfritz44

If you don't mind, please explain this a bit more. I understand parts of what you're saying, but specifically, "blending the nock end to the tip. taking more material out of the center area." confuses me. I'll try it if I can figure out what you did. Thanks for the post tips.

Fritz

Twoshot Jim

mrfritz44: Well here goes. When you place the fletching clamp on the arrow shaft (like you would when you install the fletching) you can see light at both ends of the clamp, (I could on mine) or the clamp will teeter on the center of the clamp and not lay flat on the shaft. You have to form the clamp to fit the shaft. I had to hold the jig in front of a light bulb so I could see the light between the clamp and the shaft. As I said before the is a teeteus job. Helical wraps AROUND the shaft, where the helical clamp is FLAT. Put the clamp on a flat surface, it's flat, right? Look at the helical on an arrow, it is wrapped around the shaft, how can a flat clamp do that? It is hard to describe the areas that I ground, With the clamp installed in the jig, most of the grinding was done about 2 1/2" from the notch on the clamp (nock end). Like I said it is a fit process. I had problems with the point of the feather fletching staying put after glued, this solved the problem. I hope this helps. A photo would help but I don't know how to enclude a photo.
Twoshot Jim