NorthJeff

Just wanted to share about one of the many problems that can occure with too long of draw-length.

When really getting into your aim, often past the 4-5 second mark, you have a tendancy to push your nose into the string harder, resulting in the peep sight rising slightly into your field of view. Your arrow will strike low when this happens. It will vary a little depending upon the shooter, but for me I would drop around a 1/2 inch at 20 yards.

I have been doing this for the past couple of years, and I don't think it's cost me any points at tournaments, but it's been a mystery to me. During high-pressure shoots, I would just let down after 4 or 5 seconds of aiming, and pull back again. As long as I paid attention, I'm disciplined enough to just let-down and it didn't effect me.

My draw-length for 3D is only about a 1/2" too long, and this is a problem that arrises. I recently talked to 2 different top-level archery coaches and they both answered right a way, the same way. They said it is very, very, common.

A way to get around the problem is to lower the peep sight around 1/8", so that while using your nose as part of a 3 point anchor lock, the string is tighter to your nose right off the bat. I tried this and it worked. I'm sure this problem is alot greater if your draw is significantly too long, or you don't have a consistant nose-point anchor to begin with. When shooting at 40 yards, that 1/2" drop can easily turn into 4 inches.

I guess it's a pretty common problem and if it can help someone else-great! Might help explain a low arrow or two.

Jeff...U.P. of Michigan.

ArcticBowMan

Thanks for the tips Jeff. While we're at it, here's a tip that I got from a pro shop indicating that your draw length may be too short. If you draw back and hold for long periods of time, your shoulders will start to feel it before you the rest of your body gets tired. Just more conformation for me that I'm way too short. The other confirmation was when the owner asked how tall I was, and what my draw length was then started laughing. At least he said he'd give me a good deal on a new cam.

NorthJeff

There is guy who has won many tournaments nationally and at the state target levels. I'm hearing this story second hand, so I hope it's pretty accurate. Dave Barnsdale is his name.

Dave was shooting a national tournament years ago. Dave is 6'2-4 inches, anyways-he's pretty tall(especially compared to my 5'9" stubby frame). The first day he was in the lead in the pro class. That night his only bow he had taken "out of state" to the tournament blew up. His 31" draw bow was done, so he shot his wife's 24" bow instead. He preceded to shoot a perfect indoor round and won the tournament.

The point of the story: There is always a "perfect" length, and you'll find that shooting too short you have a tendancy to push arrows to the left if right handed, and I'm sure you can experience aches and pains that aren't normal, but the bottom line is, if you shoot with good form, you can still shoot very well several inches shorter-you just compensate by bending your elbow more. When doing this the pushing and pulling balance becomes much more critical, meaning you push too much you go left, pull too much you go right. On the other hand, if you are too long, you cannot shoot well, even with good form, because you anchor point becomes less secure, less natural, and sloppier as the draw length increases. Your anchor should stay the same when shortening though.

Your arm can always bend more to compensate, but it's real hard to get it to lengthen to accomidate a draw length too long, that's where the problem lies.

Jeff...U.P. of Michigan.

ArcticBowMan

Thanks for the info again Jeff. That's pretty much where I'm at. I started out with too long of a draw length, and picked up many problems. I finally threw that bow in the garbage after I wounded a moose with it on a gimme shot from 15 yards.
I'm worried with buying a new cam for my Q2XL, that I will go back to that problem with too long of a draw length. I've only shot for score one time the other day, and got a 279 with 19 X's on 5 spots. Don't know at all if that's good or bad, but I was just happy to keep them in the main circle and not miss the circle completely.
The next night I went out and shot in the 240's, but my shoulders were shaking so badly, that I had a hard time focusing on the target. I should of put the bow down, but was pressured to finish all 12 rounds. I missed the circle completely 6 times, each time dropping the bow down before I released.

I've torn both rotator cuffs due to excessive volleyball years ago, and even after a few months of physical therapy, they just have never been the same. The frustrating part is I can draw 80 pounds comfortably and hold it for a few seconds with 65% let off, but five or six shots later, I can get to full draw but can't even hold the bow up.

I'm searching for the highest possible energy and speed without sacraficing accuracy. I also would like to keep up with the guys while we are shooting.
I'm getting some great pointers, and I do think I will buy a new cam for my bow to up the draw length, but as you said, shooting too long will only screw me. I'm used to shooting short, so it would probably hit me two fold if I went too long. I think I'll play it conservative to start out, and if need be, I'll work my way up.

Thanks again!

muzzyman88

I noticed something else thats a good indicator. With my old bow, my draw length was too long. I was continually hitting my bow arm. I was not bending my arm and my elbow was locked. If I bent my arm naturally, I was barely getting a full draw and it was uncomforable. My accuracy suffered also. When I got my new bow, I dropped the draw length a tad, and my problems were gone. Once I got used to shooting properly, I was shooting really well.

Just what I found.

NorthJeff

ABM,
If you are shooting with your shoulders square/level, no bend at the waist, and have quite a bit of bend in the elbow, you could probably stand to go longer. If in going longer you will straighten your arm passed it's relaxed state, then that's where the problems come in. Mathews bows are already long anyways, but it seems from your hiegth you could really stand to go a little longer-who knows though.

Anyways, I usually only shoot outdoors, starting around April, attend about 8 national 3d's around the country, and then end in August. I used to be an indoor fanatic, and that's what gave me a base for instruction, form, and discipline. With consistant practice I'm usually in the 59+ spot average, and went 3 years without blowing a 300 game. That being said, I recently started shooting spots-about 4 weeks ago, after basically a 3 year indoor layoff, because I have a shoot this week in Gainsville, FL, my first one of the season. We get tons of snow here and although I'd rather be shooting outside, my fingers can't take the 10-15 degrees very long, although the bugs are great this time of year!! I was surprised to see I had quite a bit of shakes to go with my shooting! That indoor stuff can be a killer if you are out of shape, shooting tired will only help to develop more problems. My form is very consistent, and the shaking just gives me a few less spots, but it's a pain and I can feel the burn in my arms.

I don't know if you tried this, but lowering the bow as low as it will go is a great move! That will lessen the shakes, greatly increases the confidence, and allows you to work on form concerns without having to fight the bow. It is very easy to slowly build up poundage-a pound or two a week, to be at your prime in a couple of months. I'm just about where I need to be, but I turned my bow down 2 cranks to begin with, and worked up slowly over the last month, starting with 20-30 arrows 3-4 times a week, to 50-70 arrows 5-6 times a week-about the most I need to shoot to be in top shape. In another month I should be at my best. Look at it this way, if you can shoot a 279, especially with out missing the 4-ring, you have the ability to shoot a 300!

Good Luck!

Jeff...U.P. of Michigan.

NorthJeff

Muzzy,
Along with smacking your arm, you'll notice that by shooting with a locked arm, which creates a TENSE arm, you will shake much more. Try clenching your fist, if you clense hard enough, kind of like when shooting a bow, you fist/arm will shake. It's the same whether it's you arm, shoulder rolled up to compensate for a long draw, hand clenched around the grip, face stiff, or whatever. When you clench, you shake.

Good point!

Jeff...U.P. of Michigan