Paper Tuning Question
#11
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bloomington Indiana USA
Posts: 3
RE: Paper Tuning Question
I know this has already been addressed before but i never caught it. Can some one please tell me how to tune your bow in good. My sights are dead on and my nock has been aligned with a bow square. My fletching on my arrows are good. I have good form when i shoot and I follow through but my shooting is still not as good as I want it to be. Any technical tips that would help me I would appreciate the help.
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994
RE: Paper Tuning Question
Tuning and shooting good can be two completely different yet related things...
Did you tune your bow? If not, did a pro shop do it for you?
If you can see your arrows in flight, do they look like they are sailing straight to the target or is the fletched end whipping around somewhat?
When you shoot more than one arrow at the same spot, are you getting tight groups? From what yardages?
Did you tune your bow? If not, did a pro shop do it for you?
If you can see your arrows in flight, do they look like they are sailing straight to the target or is the fletched end whipping around somewhat?
When you shoot more than one arrow at the same spot, are you getting tight groups? From what yardages?
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Florence AL USA
Posts: 53
RE: Paper Tuning Question
a.h.,
That' s a heck of a question to try to " sum up" , but I' ll give it a shot. First off, go to Easton' s website and download the tuning guide. Please note before you read this document as a tuning " Bible" that all the adjustments and test results may not apply to you. Many were written for finger release, etc. Just use this as a source to try to understand what adjustments you should be able to make yourself and how they might effect the arrow.
People use all kinds of evaluation methods to see if their bow is " tuned" . The goals are: 1) Proper spine and 2) Proper alignment. aka, " Spine & Align" . This has nothing to do with sight settings. It has everything to do with good arrow flight and tight grouping.
I prefer the " Bare Shaft Planing Test" for several reasons:
a) No additional equipment needed: bow, fletched arrows, " bare" arrows (cut off the fins only, not the bases, for weight), and a target
b) Results are clear-cut and can be measured
c) Tuning to a finer degree can be accomplished by simply backing up to a farther distance and repeating the test
d) Good results in this test have resulted in an easy transition between field points and broadheads
e) The method makes the most sense to me logically
Remember that tuning will not evaluate how close your arrows hit to your current sight settings. You need to tune your bow, THEN adjust your sights later to match where your " tuned" arrows are flying. Don' t try to conform your tune to match current sight settings. Your goal is tight groups, then you sight them in.
Your life will be a lot easier if you don' t carry any pre-conceived notions into the tuning process (i.e., " I' ve got to pull 70 lbs of draw weight." or " My nocking point is supposed to be 3/8" high because Joe' s is and he shoots the same bow." ) Commit yourself to adjust ANYTHING in the goal to attaining good arrow flight, and only compare yourself to your neighbor in HOW WELL YOU HIT WHERE YOU AIM. Not how you compare on a chronograph or how much weight you can pull or how well the blades of your broadhead align with your fletchings.
That' s a heck of a question to try to " sum up" , but I' ll give it a shot. First off, go to Easton' s website and download the tuning guide. Please note before you read this document as a tuning " Bible" that all the adjustments and test results may not apply to you. Many were written for finger release, etc. Just use this as a source to try to understand what adjustments you should be able to make yourself and how they might effect the arrow.
People use all kinds of evaluation methods to see if their bow is " tuned" . The goals are: 1) Proper spine and 2) Proper alignment. aka, " Spine & Align" . This has nothing to do with sight settings. It has everything to do with good arrow flight and tight grouping.
I prefer the " Bare Shaft Planing Test" for several reasons:
a) No additional equipment needed: bow, fletched arrows, " bare" arrows (cut off the fins only, not the bases, for weight), and a target
b) Results are clear-cut and can be measured
c) Tuning to a finer degree can be accomplished by simply backing up to a farther distance and repeating the test
d) Good results in this test have resulted in an easy transition between field points and broadheads
e) The method makes the most sense to me logically
Remember that tuning will not evaluate how close your arrows hit to your current sight settings. You need to tune your bow, THEN adjust your sights later to match where your " tuned" arrows are flying. Don' t try to conform your tune to match current sight settings. Your goal is tight groups, then you sight them in.
Your life will be a lot easier if you don' t carry any pre-conceived notions into the tuning process (i.e., " I' ve got to pull 70 lbs of draw weight." or " My nocking point is supposed to be 3/8" high because Joe' s is and he shoots the same bow." ) Commit yourself to adjust ANYTHING in the goal to attaining good arrow flight, and only compare yourself to your neighbor in HOW WELL YOU HIT WHERE YOU AIM. Not how you compare on a chronograph or how much weight you can pull or how well the blades of your broadhead align with your fletchings.
#14
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location:
Posts: 373
RE: Paper Tuning Question
i put alot of time paper tuning and jet fustrated i now use fixed blade broadsheards razorbak 125 and line eveything up so it looked squared and the broadheads are grouping with feild points out to 40 yards i dont shoot that far at deer anyway... just nice to no it does.... some people put to much time in paper tuning and not enough on there form... if you got bad shooting
form,paper tuning in use less???
form,paper tuning in use less???
#15
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Flatwoods, WV
Posts: 185
RE: Paper Tuning Question
I had a buddy that use to laugh at me paper tuning my bow. When I finally talked him into shooting through the paper he was getting a terrible left tear to which he replied " thats ok, it hits where i' m aiming" he was getting good groups.
I then suggested we take the 3-d target out in the woods and have some real life hunting practice. We each took turns placing the target and picking the spot to shoot from, I picked one spot that your arrow had to come real close to a little sapling in order to hit the kill zone on the target. I shot and got a clean kill. He shot and the back of his arrow smacked the little sapling and missed everthing.
We went back to the house and paper tuned his bow and now he does not laugh at me anymore......
Paper tuning is a very important part of getting the most out of your set up and a properly tuned set up will penetrate much better than a arrow that is wagging its tail.....
I then suggested we take the 3-d target out in the woods and have some real life hunting practice. We each took turns placing the target and picking the spot to shoot from, I picked one spot that your arrow had to come real close to a little sapling in order to hit the kill zone on the target. I shot and got a clean kill. He shot and the back of his arrow smacked the little sapling and missed everthing.
We went back to the house and paper tuned his bow and now he does not laugh at me anymore......
Paper tuning is a very important part of getting the most out of your set up and a properly tuned set up will penetrate much better than a arrow that is wagging its tail.....
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Warren PA USA
Posts: 1,512
RE: Paper Tuning Question
Paper tuning is a very important part of getting the most out of your set up and a properly tuned set up will penetrate much better than a arrow that is wagging its tail.....
#17
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shamong New Jersey USA
Posts: 158
RE: Paper Tuning Question
Not real sure about paper tuning.For years we tuned with a bare shaft.
Vane clearance is adjusted by using powder on the vanes to see where to set the nock.
Guess I' m an old fogey,but this system works fer me.
Joe
Vane clearance is adjusted by using powder on the vanes to see where to set the nock.
Guess I' m an old fogey,but this system works fer me.
Joe