Indiana Dude

I have been having a hard time finding a BH that will hit with my field points.
I`ve tried Thunderhead 125`s, Shockwaves, and a couple others, but today
I figured I would try 1 more so I got some Rocket Steelhead 100`s.
They fly VERY close to my FP. so now I`m happy, somewhat.

My problem is that I`m noticing my arrows seem to kick back and forth
a little in flight, and half of the time they arent sticking straight out of
the target, the are angled a bit, but they are grouping great.
With only a few weekends left before season should I try to fix it
or just accept it til I`ve got more tinker time?
I know that I`m bound to be losing some arrow speed with this funky flight,
but I dont wanna throw the whole thing out of wack trying to fix it.
Like I said though, they are grouping fine.
So whatcha think? This is only my 2nd season with a bow so I`m learning

TFOX

You will lose more than arrow speed.You lose penetration and your accuracy is probably suffering,even if you don' t realize it.


I would definately say fix it.There can be all sourts of things causing it.Fletching contact,arrow spine,improper rest setting,cam lean,shooter torque.


Fletching contact would be my first quess.


Find you a good pro shop if you think it is over your head,if you are a do it yourself type person.Go to www.eastonarchery.com and go to downloads and download the tuning guide.

buckeye

Have you paper tuned it yet? That will most likely show you your problem.
But first are you getting fletch clearance on your rest when you shoot? Your fletching will be scuffed up if you arent getting the clearance you need. I would think it is either that or your rest isnt square/ lined up with your string and or nocking point. Buy a bow square or take it down to your local pro shop and have it corrected. A properly tuned bow is a breeze to sight in. You will be glad you did.

Indiana Dude

Thanks guys, I`m using a Whisker Biscuit so I guess that would eliminate
fletching contact? Ive probably shot less than 50 arrows since I
bought it and the pro shop set it all up for me so I guess I should go back
down there and have them ck it out.
I was just there today to get the new BH`s and they have the Vapor 300
that I paid $250 for, for $149 on clearance

Rack-attack

No offence Dude...but the whole thing IS out of wack...and you should fix it.

As stated your penetration, accuracy, consistency, and grouping will suffer with a bow that is so out of tune.

Download Eastons tuning guide - and tune that puppy up

c903

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The " Rack" hit the nail on the head! Your arrow flight, as you describe it, is nothing short of a drunk bird that just happens to land where it should. Fix it before you head for the field. Begin by tuning your bow/shafts with the FP' s. Once your tune is onboard, tune your BH' s and forget about where your FP' s hit; your not going to hunt deer with an FP…..I hope!

You might want to consider dumping the " Whacking Basket" rest. Your prowess in tuning appears to be in its growth stage; therefore the " cut and pluck" aspects to tune the " Basket" may be more than you should take on at this time.

Indiana Dude

Rack-
Good point, I guess the whole thing IS out of wack-- no offence taken.

c903-
Are you saying the Whisker is harder to tune than other rests?
I was under the impression it was easier.
I had a Bodoodle rest but I had a problem with the arrow lifting off of it
when I would draw.
I was just trying to eliminate any problems I may have when I`m staring down
at a biggin.

I have looked at Eastons tuning guide and I did check my nock point and
rest position. They appear to be ok, but I probably need someone more qualified
to look it over. The whole tuning processs seems a little intimidating for my
rookie a** right now.
I`ll take it to the pro shop and let them ck it, and if they dont do me
any good then I`ll tear into it myself.
I figured that since it is a new bow and they set everything up I shouldnt
be having this trouble---Guess I figured wrong.
Thanks, you guys are the sh*t[8D]

Arrroman

The whisker biscuit is an easy to tune rest, First make sure that you are using the correct spine arrow for your bow. Too light of a spine arrow will have the the arrow bending and flexing into the bristles of the rest scrubing the fletching and ruining speed and accuracy. The biscuit should fit loosely around the arrow, it should not be tight. The biscuit should be parallel to the bowstring, it should not be tipped forward or backward. The bow should be set at an even tiller, I normally just back both limb bolts out three even turns from the maximum poundage to establish a baseline for tuning. The arrow should be nocked at a 90degree angle to the bowstring and the nockpoint installed above the arrow. You should grouptune to adjust the windage. On most right-handed bows the nock travels forward and slightly to the left about 1/8" so the rest will probably end up shooting real straight if it is about 1/8" left of center. You should adjust the tiller of the bow if needed to get a level arrow in the target. If the arrow is nock high the upper limb is doing more work than the lower limb, to correct the tiller you would tighten the lower limb bolt. If the arrow is nock low the lower limb is doing more work than the upper limb, to correct the tiller you would tighten the upper limb bolt. Leave the arrow nocked at 90degrees. Using the correct spine arrows and tuning the bow an rest to work together you should be able to shoot your broadheads and fieldpoints into the same hole. Good luck hunting!

c903

Constructively speaking; it appears you are trying to correct problems that may be caused by a flawed shooting form and/or improper installed and/or tuned gear by simply using and/or installing different accessories. It does not work that way.

As for your arrow lifting from the rest; if you are finger-shooting, most likely you are curling too much of your fingers around the string and applying excessive finger pressure (squeezing) on the nock-end of the arrow.

If you are using a mechanical release, and the arrow is actually lifting from the rest when you draw, that is a new one to me ……( I can hear the gasps in the background and a rapid rush to the keyboards ). However, as not to disappoint my opposition , I will theorize and wait for someone to submit facts.

I can only theorize that you may have a short ATA bow (narrow " V" ) or a draw that is too long, and somehow, either caused by improper bow adjustment or something you are doing when you draw, your release is somehow applying an upward pressure against the nock of your arrow, causing the entire shaft to lift. Hope someone does know, I am curious.

As for the " WB" rest; those that use the rest swear by them, and that is a personal call. However, when a " WB" user claims that the rest is easy to setup, that is a horse of a different color. I guess it depends on what the user is comparing the " WB" rest with.

If the user is claiming that setting up and tuning the " WB" is as easy as a standard rest having a windage, elevation and tension adjustment, " No Way, José!" That song can be sung until hell freezes over and will never make the top 40.

Use the " Search" feature and type in " whisker biscuit." Read the multiple posts regarding the various " cut and pluck" steps you have to perform. Consider: if you " cut and pluck" incorrectly or remove too many bristles, you have to order and install a new batch of bristles (or cut down an old poly paint brush you no longer need), and start over. You decide if you are ready and presently skilled enough to tackle that chore! Of course, if you get one and decide you do not like it, you can use it to clean the posts on your car battery.

You can start with " Arroman' s" post!

Indiana Dude

Arrowman- thanks for the info.

c903- Its funny that you say my draw could be too long and I guess this
is one thing I left out in my original post. I`ve noticed lately that my arm
is getting lightly grazed by the string when it wasn`t doing that 6 months ago.
I know my form hasn`t changed so I wonder if something on the bow has?
Thanks again.