comndr45

I' ll admit that I had never paper-tuned my bow before. I read so many posts about it being of little help on a hunting setup, etc. It had always shot well and had no noticeable problems. I put some twists in my stretched out cable the other day and had to realign my loop, etc. I was also setting up to use a no-peep. At the range, things weren' t flying right, so I shot through paper at 5 yards. I had a terrible tear. We moved my GKF hunter ultimate to the left almost as far as it would go, and was getting bullet holes. The problem is, when you line things up with the limb bolts, etc, the rest is obviously pointing way left. I could not even get my sights far enough left to get on the target. What do I do? I have a Martin Panther Mag and have never had any problems with it. The shop owner said he originally sets up all Martins with the rest almost all the way right, because that is where it ends up tuning. That is roughly where it has been all along and has shot very well. I remember reading about a double tuning point on a bow. Is this what I have? I moved it back to the old position, and it is back shooting fine. Should I paper tune farther away?

comndr45

bump

Arthur P

Sounds like it to me. The Jaguar I had with the Fuzion cam would do that.

Mahly13

I don' t put a WHOLE lot of faith into paper. Arrows are flexing as they leave the bow...some distances you get a tear...others you don' t.
BASICALLY, I try to " eye up" center shot, and use broadheads to tell me where to go from there. Follow the broadheads and 9 out of 10 times you' ll be just fine.
ONCE in a RARE while...you might go too far one way...and get a false reading (you need to go left but the heads say right). just make SMALL adjustments.
Once this is done, I have not found a way to improve my broadhead groups...and the bow shoots field points better than I do.

Bigpapascout

Paper tuning is the best way to tell if your arrow is traveling strait off of the string

you will get your best results shooting at a level plane at 6 feet away from your paper rack nock high indicates the nocking point needs to come down
nocking from side to side indicates that the center shot needs to be adjusted opposite of nock tear. a perfect bullet hole indicates you are right on the money.

Arthur P

Paper tuning is the best way to tell if your arrow is travelling straight off the string. That' s true. But doesn' t tell you if you' ve tuned the bow to compensate for the torque you put into the handle. It doesn' t tell you if the bow is shooting with it' s best accuracy.

I know when I paper tune a bow that I' m more conscious of my shooting form, trying to do each and every little thing exactly right. In fact, I think I' ve got ' paper panic' because I wind up being too concerned about my form. I can' t just relax and shoot like I normally do. I seriously doubt I' m alone in that and it will definitely give you false results.

Tuning for best groups, shooting the way I normally do, works far better.

CapstoneME

Well, if you want better results you can paper tune farther away. That' s the problem with paper tuning. If you keep backing up, the paper tears will " lie" to you. Paper tuning is designed to catch a " snapshot" of the arrow as it' s leaving the bow. The farther away you get, the more your fletchings will correct the flight of the arrow, so your paper tears will not represent anything of use.

Mahly13 is correct in that you get different tears at different distances. You can be " way off" but set your paper up at a distance that catches the arrow at minimum flex. Lied to again.

If you' re shooting carbons or thick aluminums (17 wall, etc.), I' d recommend bare shaft testing. That is, shooting a regular arrow and one with the vanes cut off (leave the base and glue for weight, just trim off the fin) at the same target and compare their impact points. The bare shaft planing test is not done through paper. You just shoot at the target, and see how far away the bare shafts hit from your fletched ones. Unlike paper tuning, the farther you back up and adjust, the more precise you can tune. Start at 10 yards and back up once you get them impacting close together. This test tells you how much in-flight correction your fletchings are having to do.

As far as your rest centershot, remember that torquing the bow can effect where it should be set. The farther the rest is left/right of where your hand hits the throat of the grip, the more sensitive it will be to torque. If you are torquing the bow, you can get two tuning points. How? Picture the bow from above. Lets say you naturally torque the bow clockwise " two hours" on the clock face. Well you could set your rest up to the left of center (at a distance equal to 10 o' clock) and when you draw the bow you naturally torque the rest into the 12 o' clock position (straight ahead.) You could also set the rest up to the right of center (distance equal to 4 o' clock) and when you draw/torque, the rest moves into the 6 o' clock position (once again straight ahead.)

mcgyverit

Comndr45,

Have you had any success solving this problem? I have just run into a similar issue with my Jaguar bow and would be interested in hearing your solution.

Steve

Bauer

I am an odd one I guess but I have never paper tuned a bow. I shoot bare shafts with target tips first and no fletching. When I have a very good straight shot all the way out to 40 yards then I try it again with broadheads. I finally glue on my feathers and try it some more. I have had extremely great luck doing this. Good luck on the fine tuning.

Rack-attack

You shoot bare shaft broadheads out to 40 yds........LOL

Dou you catch them when they come back to you[:-]