brbowhunter

I need some help with my muzzy zero effect. I have watched the video (a couple of times) and set the thing up like they show on the video. I took my bow out and it appeared to paper tune well. When I began shooting the bow in the back yard at targets my arrow looks to have really eratic arrow flight. Hitting the target at all kinds of angles. I know this is not right. I shoot a Mathews Q2. (Anyone set one up on a Mathews Q2?) I set the rest up with the pivot arm in the whole closest to the archer (as stated in the video) and the rest portion in the whole closest to the archer as well. I am not sure if this matters or not. I shoot 70 lbs with a 29 inch draw and Game Tracker Carbon Express Terminator Hunter 6075 arrows with a 100 grain tip. What am I doing wrong? ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

ijimmy

2 links


http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4218798725

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4218798717

I would have just inserted them in my reply by 30 kb is a small blury picture so here are some big clear pictures for you hope it helps , any questions ask and I' ll reply , the one diferance from the wat I' m setup and the wat you say yours is setup is the claw on mine is in the hole closest to the bow . I bought this bow used in 2000 ,and put the ZE on it , sence then I' ve owned about 8 othersthat have been traded or sold , this bow and setup I can not part with , its got the mojo . Your centershoot and or nock height may be the culprit allso . One last thing if one picture is worth a 1000 words then I just spared everyone 2000 . Misspelled and bad grammer and all . good luck a q2 and ZE is an awesome combo .

nub

Lets assume you have it install correctly. Are your groups spread out horizontaly or vertically? Work on your nock position first by sliding it up or down the string till your groups tighten up. If they open up again, you' ve gone to far. Then adjust your capture arm left or right till the groups tighten up vertically. It shouldn' t matter if you use the 3rd hole on the pivot since you used the second hole for the capture arm. I had my MQ1 set the same as yours and had no problems.

brbowhunter

My groupings do not appear to be too bad. I am going out for another afternoon of tinkering. I will look at the pics and see if this helps any. I will keep you posted on what I find. THANKS a ton for the help......

Toby from MO

I agree with nub. I don’t think the mounting position should have too much to do with your problem. I just recently installed mine on my Ultra Max. With the Ultra Max’s very low brace height (lack of room between the cables and the riser) I realized the different mounting holes for the pivot arm and hook are, for the most part, to accommodate the various bow designs. Eric from Muzzy actually gave me a tip, before my purchase, as to the proper mounting holes for my bow. My mounting arm is in the middle hole and my hook is mounted in the hole closest to the bow. The hook just clears the back of the bracket and gives me the most clearance between my cables vs. any other combination of mounting holes.

Now with that said, beside the brace height difference, an even bigger difference between our bows is the amount of limb travel. The limb travel effects how much the cable slide moves and the cable slide effects how far the hook will move. Unlike your bow, mine has a lot of limb movement thus my hooks moves a lot. My hook rests below the plane of my arrow shelf yet will raise the arrow above the burger button hole. Your chosen mounting holes will slightly affect the travel distance of your hook but in this situation the adjustments that give the “best bang for the buck” are achieved in the draw stop screw and the turnbuckle sleeve.

My suggestion….1. Check your center shot. 2. Check the angle of the arrow to the string, 90 degrees to the string maybe even a little nock high. 3. Make sure your stop pin is contacting the stop plate prior to entering the valley. 4. Make sure your hook is moving enough to clear the vanes on the bottom.

Make sure to rotate the hook so it straight up and down when at full draw and leaning back towards you when in the resting position. For my bow this doesn’t matter but for bows with less limb movement this will give you max clearance on the bottom.

Good Luck,
Toby

brbowhunter

Wow, I am an idiot. I had my nock point a little too low and also moved my pivot arm to the center whole and the rest to the hole away from the archer like you guys have it. Took it out and got a PERFECT paper tear out too 20 feet (that' s as far as I paper shot it). Went out and got what appeared to be GREAT arrow flight with my field points. Wanted to see how it shot with my 100 grain muzzy' s. No difference in the groups or flight of the arrow. I am amazed. In 13 plus years of bowhunting I have never felt so confident with fixed blade heads (I have almost allways shot mechanicals). Look out Mr. Colorado Bull. I will be headed out Sep. 4th. with my Muzzy ZE. Thanks a lot for the help guys.

ijimmy

Sounds like elk steaks for the brbowhunter household . Good luck , get ya a big un .

CAJUNBOWHNTR

I had one on a darton maverick that was making a ton of noise on the shot.Sounded like the arm coming off the riser was vibrating.The nut holding the arm was fairly snug.Any ideas?

CB

nub

The nut coming off the risor should just be snug enough to hold an arrow up. No more, no less. Check to make sure you have arm clearance when your string returns to brace. Check all the other screws and bolts for tightness. They are not necesarily tight from the factory. If you cant find the problem, post how you have it set up or call Muzzy' s toll free number and talk to Eric.

ijimmy

Cajun , muzzy has come out with a new cabel slide for the ZE . Its made of gray teflon and does not have rollers like the older models did . It quiets down the ZE considerably , and is a direct replacement . It will not change your tunning if you change it out .