benhuntin

What effects to accuracy can a slightly off tiller create. Im talking about 1/8 inch or
so..??? I cranked my draw weight all the way down and backed off 1 1/2 turns on each limb. The tiller is about 1/8 inch off. I have a dual cam so I measured from the string. Should I measure axle to axle? I retightened the top limb 1 turn and that made the tillers even. All these years of hunting and Ive never checked this. I have always trusted that if I cranked the limbs all the way down and backed off the same that the tiller would be the same. My bow was shooting great but I am getting about a 1/2 or more nock high tear in the paper. I moved my nock down but it doesnt seem to help. UUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGHHHH! I used to not piddle with the finer details in tuning but YA' ll have created a monster.[>:][X(]
IVE GOT RACK ATTACKitis.[] Help me.[:' (]

S.Texas

Years ago back in the wood limb days, an off tiller was someteimes recomended due to sometimes different limb lengths. I would set tiller even. I make double sure your cam timing is dead on. Then try again. But then again - I dont put a whole lot in paper tuning.

Arthur P

Never trust anything. Check it all. I about had a cat when I saw Mathews recommending that practice, and it' s why I saw a lot of Mathews shooters shooting with a nockset a half inch or so UNDER square.

Tiller that' s out won' t do much to your accuracy. Bernie Pellerite proved that using a shooting machine. But the bow won' t feel right when you draw, and it can make the bow harder to hold on target.

I like my tiller set so that I can hold a pin on target and it will stay there all the way through the draw and anchor, rather than one limb pulling the bow up or down as it' s drawn. Even if you don' t do that test, you can feel the pressure shift in your bowhand as you draw, and that' s something that really bugs me. And one limb recovering to brace before the other one can cause the bow to recoil up or down, depending on which on recovers first.

If the limbs come back the same, then they' ll spend their energy the same on the shot.

nub

Arthur: Me, and my new 2 cam bow shooting self, would love it if you were to elaborate on this tiller tuning. Seems to me I seen a link in this tech forum pertaining to some sort of tiller tune. Ever see one?

c903

Kudos to Arthur P. He has been burning the midnight oil. In just a few sentences he hit the core of what " Tiller" settings are really all about. Especially, that off/on tiller has very little to do with accuracy.

I have read several posts where great importance has been put on tiller settings, above and beyond what is factual.

Go here and type in the term [/b]tiller[/b].

http://domino.htcomp.net/ragsdale.nsf

Pay attention to how adjusting the tiller will change nock height. Beyond that, by time you are finished perusing the info, you will conclude that Art hit the nail on the head.

Arthur P

Nub, I don' t put much stock in tiller tuning. I just set it like I talked about above and leave it alone. Cam timing and synch are a lot more important than getting the perfect tiller. If I don' t have time to set tiller on a bow, I' ll run it to zero and get on with life. But I' ll set the tiller to fit me as soon as I can. Just like your draw weight and draw length, you set the tiller to fit you and it doesn' t involve anything more exotic than just keeping the bow level in your hand as you draw and shoot.

I' ve also heard of creep tuning for dually bows, where you tune your bow in and then check it by intentionally creeping away from anchor before the release, and then adjust it so the creep shots and full draw shots hit the same point of impact. Supposed to make your bow much more forgiving. I' ve never messed with that either. Since I don' t creep when I shoot (one major thing single cams taught me ), I don' t see any reason to tune for creep.