Choosing a stabilizer
07-30-2003, 07:32 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
Choosing a stabilizer
I have been preaching for years about ' bow balance' and practice it religiously to the satisfaction of my customers. Bow balance is something that can only be achieved by trying several to many different stabilizers, and can only be properly done if you have a Pro Shop that carries different brands - and will allow you to test them. For anyone to suggest that ' THIS' is the right stabilizer for your bow is impossible.
Many manufacturers have tried to sell stabilizers for years as a standard product for their bows. Due to the difference in accessories, draw weight, arrow weight and shooting style, it' s not possible to get the best match. Although many may find suggestions acceptable, the true compliment can only be found through testing against the absolute ' system' .
We have learned to use ' offset brackets' quite a bit to balance bows. The ones I like are about 4" long. These allow the weight to be placed much lower on the bow and allow front to back and side to side balancing.
There are two ways to check for proper balance. The static way is to hold your bow at the throat of the grip with thumb and forefinger. Front/back and left/right out of balance can be quickly felt. The dynamic way is to have someone watch the upper cam/wheel during the shot. It shouldn' t move forward or backward during the shot. The bow can and usually does, when properly balanced, fall SLOWLY forward after the shot.
The other purpose of stabilizers is to reduce shock and vibration. Proper balance to determine weight orientation is usually what we do first. Once this is done, we then pick different dampening mediums to allow the customer to choose which one does the best job. You' d be surprised and what really does and doesn' t work on different bows. We have found that the highest priced and most popular is not always the best.
While many may find vibration dampening sufficient for hunting needs, many in my shop find that bow balance can greatly improve shot placement and overall pleasure of shooting the bow. The right stabilizer ' system' can make a big difference if you have the means to accomplish this task. Taking someone else' s opinion on something so critical, IMPO, is not the best way.
This information may not set so well with the manufacturers or their agents and many who may successfully use a certain product. In fact, many of them hate to see this sort of analysis/testing/acceptance. I hope it helps many to understand how to choose a stabilizer better.
Many manufacturers have tried to sell stabilizers for years as a standard product for their bows. Due to the difference in accessories, draw weight, arrow weight and shooting style, it' s not possible to get the best match. Although many may find suggestions acceptable, the true compliment can only be found through testing against the absolute ' system' .
We have learned to use ' offset brackets' quite a bit to balance bows. The ones I like are about 4" long. These allow the weight to be placed much lower on the bow and allow front to back and side to side balancing.
There are two ways to check for proper balance. The static way is to hold your bow at the throat of the grip with thumb and forefinger. Front/back and left/right out of balance can be quickly felt. The dynamic way is to have someone watch the upper cam/wheel during the shot. It shouldn' t move forward or backward during the shot. The bow can and usually does, when properly balanced, fall SLOWLY forward after the shot.
The other purpose of stabilizers is to reduce shock and vibration. Proper balance to determine weight orientation is usually what we do first. Once this is done, we then pick different dampening mediums to allow the customer to choose which one does the best job. You' d be surprised and what really does and doesn' t work on different bows. We have found that the highest priced and most popular is not always the best.
While many may find vibration dampening sufficient for hunting needs, many in my shop find that bow balance can greatly improve shot placement and overall pleasure of shooting the bow. The right stabilizer ' system' can make a big difference if you have the means to accomplish this task. Taking someone else' s opinion on something so critical, IMPO, is not the best way.
This information may not set so well with the manufacturers or their agents and many who may successfully use a certain product. In fact, many of them hate to see this sort of analysis/testing/acceptance. I hope it helps many to understand how to choose a stabilizer better.
07-30-2003, 08:01 AM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Choosing a stabilizer
This information may not set so well with the manufacturers or their agents and many who may successfully use a certain product. In fact, many of them hate to see this sort of analysis/testing/acceptance.
One of my favorite stabilizers is still the old Cobra I got in the 80' s. Nothing more than an aluminum rod with a brass weight on the end, 11 1/2" overall length.
07-30-2003, 09:40 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994
RE: Choosing a stabilizer
Len, this is what I' ve always thought, but unfortunately there isn' t a shop around here offering even close to the level of customer service you apparently do. I wish I had a quality shop such as yours around, you' d get all my money As such I HAVE to rely on info read here to at least get pointed in the right direction.
I shoot a Diamond Hornet, very similar in construction to the BT mighty mite, it' s 30.5" ata, 7.5" brace and mass weight of 3.2#. Sight is a savage pendulum max, rest is a savage drop away, and I shoot without a quiver. I also use the no-peep which is mounted above my sight pin.
After all the good words on the Stealth stabilizer, I called them and explained my bow and set up. He recommended the 8" stealth, and I bought it.
As reported, the sound and vibration dampening is the best I' ve ever experienced, which isn' t much, but based on the word of those trying it against many many others they' ve tried, I' ll believe it to be one of the if not the best in this area.
As for balance, with it installed, using only my thumb and forefinger, the bow sits pretty much level front to back, if maybe the top limb leans SLIGHTLY forward. Side to side is dead on level. After the shot, with a relaxed grip the top limb falls slowly and slightly forward.
Does this sound about right? Any suggestions?
As such I HAVE to rely on info read here to at least get pointed in the right direction.I shoot a Diamond Hornet, very similar in construction to the BT mighty mite, it' s 30.5" ata, 7.5" brace and mass weight of 3.2#. Sight is a savage pendulum max, rest is a savage drop away, and I shoot without a quiver. I also use the no-peep which is mounted above my sight pin.
After all the good words on the Stealth stabilizer, I called them and explained my bow and set up. He recommended the 8" stealth, and I bought it.
As reported, the sound and vibration dampening is the best I' ve ever experienced, which isn' t much, but based on the word of those trying it against many many others they' ve tried, I' ll believe it to be one of the if not the best in this area.
As for balance, with it installed, using only my thumb and forefinger, the bow sits pretty much level front to back, if maybe the top limb leans SLIGHTLY forward. Side to side is dead on level. After the shot, with a relaxed grip the top limb falls slowly and slightly forward.
Does this sound about right? Any suggestions?
07-30-2003, 12:15 PM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 391
RE: Choosing a stabilizer
I' ve always thought that the purpose of a stabilizer was to help stabilize, or balance, your bow. I think the shock absorption quality should be secondary. It seems that most of the " latest & greatest" stabilizers on the market are just way too light. It' s almost impossible to find one on the shelves that feels heavy enough to balance a bow well. They are marketed for vibration and noise reduction, which is fine, but they shouldn' t be called a stabilizer because they really don' t serve that purpose.
07-30-2003, 09:08 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
RE: Choosing a stabilizer
Rangeball: The Stealth product line is one of the more popular that we stock. If your bow balances correctly, you' ve probably done well. Also keep in mind that you can achieve ' balance' with less weight if you use extensions. Putting a smaller weight further out from the bow can have the same effect as a bigger stabilizer. The extensions we use are from Quiet-Tune.
Navy: Yes, stabilizers with various fluids can freeze or at least become less functional. This should be taken into consideration by those in more harsh climates.
Jeepnut: You will notice that I said that the ' other' purpose was to reduce shock and vibration. You' re ' right on' about balance being first. Most of the " latest & greatest" are just too light (as compared to earlier models) because 1)there are a lot more reflex risers on the market that don' t require very heavy stabilizers, and 2) the advent of parallel llimb technology has made many bow front heavy. This sometimes requires stabilization to be put to the rear of the riser.
The reason they are marketed more for vibration and noise reduction is because that is what the market knows more about and wants. Very few have been taught to properly balance their bows.[:' (]
Navy: Yes, stabilizers with various fluids can freeze or at least become less functional. This should be taken into consideration by those in more harsh climates.
Jeepnut: You will notice that I said that the ' other' purpose was to reduce shock and vibration. You' re ' right on' about balance being first. Most of the " latest & greatest" are just too light (as compared to earlier models) because 1)there are a lot more reflex risers on the market that don' t require very heavy stabilizers, and 2) the advent of parallel llimb technology has made many bow front heavy. This sometimes requires stabilization to be put to the rear of the riser.
The reason they are marketed more for vibration and noise reduction is because that is what the market knows more about and wants. Very few have been taught to properly balance their bows.[:' (]
07-31-2003, 05:44 AM
#7
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413
RE: Choosing a stabilizer
Len,
I' ve got a guestion. Those real long stabilizers that target shooters use, is their length for a purpose other than balance? Obviously, most hunters don' t want a giant stabilizer on their bow. It seems to me, that hunters must be giving up something, since the typical hunting stabilizer isn' t very big. I like your idea of testing lots of different stabilizers on one' s bow. Just wondering if a hunter will usually have to settle for something less, in order to get the manuverability needed.
I' ve got a guestion. Those real long stabilizers that target shooters use, is their length for a purpose other than balance? Obviously, most hunters don' t want a giant stabilizer on their bow. It seems to me, that hunters must be giving up something, since the typical hunting stabilizer isn' t very big. I like your idea of testing lots of different stabilizers on one' s bow. Just wondering if a hunter will usually have to settle for something less, in order to get the manuverability needed.
07-31-2003, 08:46 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
RE: Choosing a stabilizer
Rangeball: There, I fixed it. Is that a little better? 
I didn' t really care for that color either; but, after I selected it, I didn' t have time to change it.
Straightarrow: I really can' t speak for " target shooters" . Sometimes they have a ' mind of their own' and wouldn' t listen to reason from anyone. Some of the sharper ones, just like some of the smarter hunters, have learned through time and effort what really works better. A lot of the target shooters also use ' V' bars that allow them to neutralize the forward weight. The length of the forward stabilizer helps to control the lefts and rights and can be a visual indicator of torque. Also, by adding this long stabilizer and the ' V' bar stabilizers, you' re adding weight below the grip. This will aid in overall bow balance.
The hunters don' t have to give up a thing. If you get a chance, weigh one of those modern long stabilizers that the tournament archers use. Many of the newer designs are very light. In most cases, we can keep the hunting stabilizers to less than 10" . I had one parallel limb design bow where it needed too much weight behind the riser. I machined a miniature ' V' bar so that I could put two stabilizers in parallel so that the cables would miss hitting the stabilizer. It worked quite well but looked kinda weird to most people.
Just tonight I was working on a customer' s bow which needed side balance. He had one of the newer long riser designs and is headed to Colorado to elk hunt. Since he has to shoot with a quiver full of arrows, he found out that his bow was yawling terribly. Being off by about 1/2 bubble on a level can put you right out of the kill zone at 40+ yards.
I hope this answers your questions.
I didn' t really care for that color either; but, after I selected it, I didn' t have time to change it.Straightarrow: I really can' t speak for " target shooters" . Sometimes they have a ' mind of their own' and wouldn' t listen to reason from anyone. Some of the sharper ones, just like some of the smarter hunters, have learned through time and effort what really works better. A lot of the target shooters also use ' V' bars that allow them to neutralize the forward weight. The length of the forward stabilizer helps to control the lefts and rights and can be a visual indicator of torque. Also, by adding this long stabilizer and the ' V' bar stabilizers, you' re adding weight below the grip. This will aid in overall bow balance.
The hunters don' t have to give up a thing. If you get a chance, weigh one of those modern long stabilizers that the tournament archers use. Many of the newer designs are very light. In most cases, we can keep the hunting stabilizers to less than 10" . I had one parallel limb design bow where it needed too much weight behind the riser. I machined a miniature ' V' bar so that I could put two stabilizers in parallel so that the cables would miss hitting the stabilizer. It worked quite well but looked kinda weird to most people.
Just tonight I was working on a customer' s bow which needed side balance. He had one of the newer long riser designs and is headed to Colorado to elk hunt. Since he has to shoot with a quiver full of arrows, he found out that his bow was yawling terribly. Being off by about 1/2 bubble on a level can put you right out of the kill zone at 40+ yards.
I hope this answers your questions.