Nebraska Bow Hunter

Arthur, I checked the tiller when I purchased the bow and set them equal. It could very well be operator error. I' m new to bowhunting and have probably only shot this between 50-75 times. I' m getting about 2-3" groups at 20 yards.

Rack-attack, as far as I know the bodoodle doesnt have different prong tensions. The model I have, the Zapper, comes in a 300 model for arrows under 399 grains and 400 for arrows over 400 grains. I purchased the 400 model because my arrows with broadheads are coming in at 436 grains. I use an metal loop on my string. It' s the Ultra Nok XL if I' m not mistaken.

eightwgt, with the bodoodle the cock vane goes up. I did remove the top 2 prongs on the bodoodle so the only contack would be the bottom 2 prongs but they could very well be having some contact yet.

BobCo, I' m new to archery. Only shot around 50-75 times. I wish I had a good proshop around but I just don' t that I know of. The place that I bought my bow from pissed me off when I bought it. I wanted them to adjust my poundage and they basically just started wrenching on the bolts and didn' t do the same # of turns. I had to reset the tiller when I got it home. They also told me that there was no way of measuring my draw length without a nok and release so I basically had to do that myself when I got home. I paid full retail for this bow, $700, and expected better service. I' m not going back to them. I used a Saunders bow square to set the nok. It has 2 lines on it where the nok should go. Do I need to go 1/4-3/8" over this mark?

Thanks for all the help guys. After work tonight I' m going to try the spray and see if I' m having contact problems. I' m also going to try a friends arrows that are a little heavier and see if I have an arrow problem. If none of this works, maybe I will just keep shooting and try it again in a month and see if it improves with my shooting form.

Rack-attack

if you are that new to archery don' t even worry about it

Get it close and just shoot-shoot-shoot.

Just enjoy the sport without driving yourself crazy.

Your gonna have plenty of time later on to aggravate the heck out of yourself

BobCo19-65

OK, if there are no other proshops around here is a way for you to set it up yourself.

1. adjust the height of your arrow rest. Your arrow rest with an arrow on it should be set so that the middle thickness of your arrow is in a direct line with the holes that are cut out and threaded on your riser that your arrow rest screws into (try to keep your arrow at 90 degrees to you string, no matter where your nock is set).

2. Adjust your rest for the right/left adjustment. Here is a little trick you can do. Put two allen wrenches in both limb bolts (one in each bolt). Take a rubber band and attach it to the allen wrenches. The space inbetween them will be close very close to your centershot. If you have a single cam bow, chances are that your string is offset somewhat. If this is the case you may have to adjust for this slight offset, ussually a little left. Try to eyeball it looking down an arrow.

3. set your nock at 5/16 above 90 degrees.

You said that they set your tiller for you, but you may want to check it again and make sure it is set equally. I usually check it by running some serving thread between the axles, and not using the bow string at all in the measurement. Make sure that the distance between the thread is even from the thread at 90 degrees to where the limbs attach to the riser.

Arthur P

Since you are a true beginner, this is a great opportunity to save your sanity. Forget all about paper tuning. Even though there are many true believers in paper tuning, what kind of hole those arrows tear in a sheet of paper is really pretty meaningless. Even tuned to punch ' bullet holes,' a bow isn' t necessarily going to shoot it' s very best set like that.

If you' ve got a dozen arrows, sacrifice a couple to the cause. Strip the vanes off two of them and use the bareshaft method outlined in the Hoyt Tuning Guide. (You can download it in PDF format from the Hoyt website.) Do the rough setup that BobCo told you and then make small adjustments - VERY small adjustments, like 1/64" at a time - to get the bareshafts to hit with the fletched shafts.

Rangeball

Call Bodoodle. Ask for Louis. Tell him your troubles. Do what he tells you.



Seriously, he' s the production manager for bodoodle and is infinitely familiar with tuning for this rest. I' m sure he' d be glad to help.

TFOX

Although I do agree that it isn' t time to get too involved in the tuning process.I do think if their is fletching contact that you need to get it resolved.This may frustrate you when when your shooting and your groups just don' t get any better.


I just looked at the rest in question and I would say there is a strong possibility of contact.Maybe calling Boddodle might be a good idea.

BobCo19-65

I agree with TFOX, set the bow with the tuning I described, but don' t overlook contact.

rcd567

Howdy Nebraska Bowhunter,
Where you located at? I' m actually close to the hemroid, er Omaha area but have to drive about 45 minutes to get to the good pro shop. Didn' t even buy the bow there but they set it up for me. Helped me paper tune the thing to shoot bullet holes, and now my broadheads fly to the same impact spot as my field points. If your not too far, stop by Full Draw Archery around 144th and Industrial Road. Hope this helps.

Arrroman

Yes your nock point probably is too low now. When you set the bow at an even tiller you were on the right track. I usually set the bow at even tiller two or even three turns out from max so you got room to tune the tiller. Then set the nock point so that the arrow is at a 90degree angle to the bowstring. Thats probably real close to where you started and would quite predictably result in either a perfect arrow or a high tear. You would then crank down on the lower limb bolt to get the nock of the arrow to produce a level tear and a level arrow in the target. Your end result should be a tuned bow with an acceptable nockpoint position that doesn' t crash the arrow into the rest. You will note that this method does not require you to move the nockpoint up or down the string and it is still posible to add or subtract some poundage to the bow. Cranking down on the upper limb bolt has the same effect on the arrow as raiseing the nockpoint. Cranking down on the lower limb bolt has the same effect as moving the nockpoint down. Isn' t this an elegant solution? Good luck hunting!

nub

Whats the problem? I' m sure theres some guys on this site that would die for groups like that. Lets set up an apointment for say 1000 shots. Go home, take 50 shots a day, and call us after a thousand. [:-]