btpatriot02

Well I' ll let you know how my Black knight does this season

Straightarrow

There is an ideal tool for any job, and although I could field dress a deer with a machette, I' m sure I' d do a better job with my Buck Folding Hunter. Likewise, 9 out of 10 times, the low brace height will not cause me a problem. It' s the 10th time I' m not willing to endure.

I practice a lot and I' m a decent shot. Even so, I' ve had a bow string hit my sleeve while shooting at a deer. My stance was extremely closed and it was a very cold day and I had on a very heavy jacket. Fortunately, the deer was only about 5 yards away and it didn' t matter that I missed my target by 6-8" at 5 yards. The deer died withins seconds. That bow had a 7" brace height. 8 1/2 to 9" brace height and everything would have gone perfect. Could I have avoided my sleeve with proper form? Not on that shot. Proper form wasn' t an option when turning that far too my left. The deer had been walking from my right to my left. I didn' t even realize my stance had become so closed.

CAJUNBOWHNTR

well I used to think that too.Until I shot a maverick with a 6 1/2 " BH.If I was a knuckle dragger like AP who shot fingers,then I would be more concerned with BH.But for us smurfs low BH is not a problem.We really should be thinking more of Power stroke and that is dependant on your draw length.I can shoot a 6" BH with a 28" draw and still have a shorter power stroke than someone with a longer draw length.Of course a longer power stroke has advantages if you can shoot good.Those of us with short draws need the extra stroke to keep up with you tarzans with 31" draw lengths.The only other isssue is arm slapping.I think many people have problems because they are shooting a little long on draw length. We bow hunt in tee shirts so it' s not that much of an issue.In short if you are a release shooter with good form and an average or short draw length don' t get too hung up on BH.

CB

btpatriot02

Straightarrow do you think a arm guard could have helped you in that shot? this is my first season with a short BH. But like I said before I shot the bow with all my hunting clothes esp. the heavy,bulky stuff. And didn' t hit, but you and AP made some good points. I just might have to think about using a arm guard.

Rack-attack

btpatriot02 - I forgets who makes it - it is an elastic camo sleeve that you slide over your bow wrist - I use it - and it holds everything in real tight and works great

DaveC

I' ve metnioned this before, but one of the first post on this thread reminded me of it -so here it goes again....

I held a phone call conversation with The owner of Diamond bows and he mentioned to me that just straight comparing brace heights was not comparing apples to apples as some manufactureres cam designs allow more foreward advancement of the string past the resting point during the shot sequence than others. It' s been a while since that conversation, but the main point is still a good one. I might not have quoted him correctly, but you get the jist of it.

This would explain why some bows with a 7" BH will slap your arm when another with a 6 3/4" bh never gets near it.

I guess a tight nock or metal loop would also add to the foreward movement of the string during the shot sequence.

CBM SC

I use one, I think it' s made by Buckwing products (?) !!

TFOX

Dave c, it also doesn' t take into account, reflex.

IMO this is more important that brace heigth.You could take a bow with an 8" brace and 3 1/2" reflex and that thing will still hit your sleeve in a bad form circumstance.If you take a straight riser bow with 7" brace you will have 1 sweet hunting machine.


It is also true that the sub 28" draw shooters have less to worry with in the brace heigth depatment but imo they still don' t need to disregard it totally.

btpatriot02

Rack thanks for the suggestion I seen it in the cabelas catalog but one ? does it give enough stretch over a wool jacket?

Arthur P

TFOX, I' d never thought of reflex being part of it, but I guess you' re right. I prefer deflexed risers. Can' t stand reflexed risers because they' re SO easy to torque in comparison. I' d rather have the forgiveness rather than the speed.

The cam overtravel is another issue. Also heavy nock setups. Arrow nocks that are too tight. Arrows that are too light. String/cable creep. All will cause the string to whip further forward than it needs too.

What about bow quivers? Seems to me the extra weight on the side of the bow would make a bow twist/torque to the side after the shot and cause a low brace string to tag the arm. Especially on a heavy reflexed riser?