Arrow question
06-02-2003, 06:00 PM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: KY USA
Posts: 779
RE: Arrow question
That depends on a number of things such as
1. do you want your broadheads sticking out in front of the riser?
2. do you use an overdraw or rest mounted to allow shorter arrows?
Thats the first step to finding the correct choice. I would consult a local pro shop to get their help in choosing the proper length & the correct arrow.
1. do you want your broadheads sticking out in front of the riser?
2. do you use an overdraw or rest mounted to allow shorter arrows?
Thats the first step to finding the correct choice. I would consult a local pro shop to get their help in choosing the proper length & the correct arrow.
06-03-2003, 08:06 AM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: East Yapank NY USA
Posts: 3,457
RE: Arrow question
Also remember just because the bow states a 28" draw doesn' t mean it is a 28" draw. Measure it, then decide where you want the tip to stop on full draw.
As Orions said there are other factors also.
As Orions said there are other factors also.
06-03-2003, 09:07 AM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,862
RE: Arrow question
1. Using a rubber " O-ring" that fits snug on the shaft, slide the ring onto your shaft to the approximate location of the draw-length you presently believe you have.
2. Using your bow, the bow you will be tailoring the shafts to, mount the shaft, and in the best textbook shooting form you can acquire, draw the shaft, and eye where the " O-ring" is in relation to the front of your riser or overdraw rest.
3. Move the " O-ring" until you like what you see.
4. When you believe you have found the length, draw your bow several times until you are completely satisfied with the length you observe.
5. Measure the length form the throat of your nock to the string side of the " O-ring." Note: I personally cut my full length shafts so that there is a ¾" extension in front of my riser on full draw.
Using the rubber " O-ring" method allows you to make repeated adjustments without marking the shaft with a felt-tip, and then trying to determine and see the correct mark out of several marks. Being able to observe the " O-ring" also allows you to have a visual and true perspective of length.
Additionally, The " O-ring" method also enables you to determine your draw-length when you do not have someone to assist. Regardless of available assistance, I still prefer to determine where I want to cut my shafts by using the above method. The person standing to the side and trying to place a mark on the shaft by your verbal instructions...before your anchor creeps, hardly ever puts the mark exactly where you want it.
2. Using your bow, the bow you will be tailoring the shafts to, mount the shaft, and in the best textbook shooting form you can acquire, draw the shaft, and eye where the " O-ring" is in relation to the front of your riser or overdraw rest.
3. Move the " O-ring" until you like what you see.
4. When you believe you have found the length, draw your bow several times until you are completely satisfied with the length you observe.
5. Measure the length form the throat of your nock to the string side of the " O-ring." Note: I personally cut my full length shafts so that there is a ¾" extension in front of my riser on full draw.
Using the rubber " O-ring" method allows you to make repeated adjustments without marking the shaft with a felt-tip, and then trying to determine and see the correct mark out of several marks. Being able to observe the " O-ring" also allows you to have a visual and true perspective of length.
Additionally, The " O-ring" method also enables you to determine your draw-length when you do not have someone to assist. Regardless of available assistance, I still prefer to determine where I want to cut my shafts by using the above method. The person standing to the side and trying to place a mark on the shaft by your verbal instructions...before your anchor creeps, hardly ever puts the mark exactly where you want it.
